Front wheel hubs - bearings & cleaning

[83_Silberpfeil]

Car is: 83 SC (USA). As part of the brake refresh process, I removed the front hubs to get to the discs/rotors. Now that the hubs are out and on the bench, I want to change the inner/outer bearings, and the bearing seal.

As you can see from the fotos, the hubs are cake'd with grease and dust. So, would like to brush away the dust grease, soak in ZEPP Heavy Duty Citrus Cleaner (full strength), scrub, rinse, repeat. Goal is to get most/all of dust grease off --- not shooting for anywhere near full restored or concourse level.

QUESTIONS: should clean it out first, then remove the bearings? Or remove bearings then clean? Does it matter? Is there any concern over getting the hub surfaces wet or will dust hide/deposit in those areas if I remove the bearings first?

Thanks!

[PNW Targa]

Pull the bearings first. Cleaning the hubs will be much easier. You’ll need to pry out the grease cap to reach the inner bearing. There’s a pick-like tool available, but I was able to work it out with a small pry bar. As long as you plan on installing new inner and outer bearings and a new inner grease cap, you’ll want all the old stuff out. Races, too, if you’re going all new. Those were the toughest part for me.

[seafeye]

I like to use a combination of wire brushes to get it clean. Then for the extra magic step, get a scotch bright pad and soak it in penetration fluid. And scrub away. The oil in the fluid will help prevent staining of the bare aluminum. It will also repel water. And slow corrosion. WD40 can be used if you don’t have PB Blaster.

[Locker537]

Remove the old. Clean and inspect. Replace with new.

Double check that the cleaner you mention is safe for aluminum, especially if you are going to let it soak. Common cleaners like Simple Green are not safe on aluminum. It's generally no big deal for a quick wipe, but it will damage parts left to soak.

[mepstein]

I pull the bearings and seals, clean the hubs, then knock out the bearing races. I think it’s easier to knock them out when the hub is clean. No big deal ether way. Just don’t reuse the old races, install new ones.

[83_Silberpfeil]

Thanks for your recommendations, everyone. Much appreciated. The front hubs are a mess, cake'd w oil/dust. I didn't think about penetrating fluid/oil. I do have PB Blaster and WD40. So, will try that.

Here's the plan:
1. use plastic scraper and thick nylon brush to remove as much crud as possible.
2. remove the grease seal/cap; remove inner/outer bearings
3. apply PB Blaster/WD40, scrape and brush more; wipe down, rinse, and repeat
4. rinse and scrub (or soak) w ZEPP, scrub, rinse, repeat
5. borrow/rent tools from FLAPS, and remove bearing race
6. wipe up inner areas where braces were seated; remove rust if any
7. install new races

NOTE: ZEPP is labeled as safe for aluminum --- whether for scrubbing/rinsing or for soaking is not indicated.

[911obgyn]

Diesel fuel works real good to get the heavy caked on stuff. And for soaking parts.

[83_Silberpfeil]

Yeah, I've read/heard diesel, as well as gasoline, both work well to degrease.

I have a few gasoline storage cans, and some fresh 91 unleaded, so may give that a try. For diesel, I'd have to buy another container so will wait and see my results w ZEPP HD Citrus and/or 91 unleaded.

I do have reservations about using gasoline/diesel though --- proper disposal is a real pain, here in California.

Originally Posted by 911obgyn

Diesel fuel works real good to get the heavy caked on stuff. And for soaking parts.

[PeteKz]

One shouldn't have to say this, but--don't use gasoline for the obvious reason that it's highly flammable. Use kerosene, diesel, or other less volatile solvents; or something nonflammable like the Zepp.

[DaytonaCoupe66]

Ensure that you have this O ring part on your spindle. I'd suggest refreshing it based on the grit on your inner seal.

O-Ring for Front Wheel Spindle

It helps keep the road grime out of the back side of your inner bearings.

[Locker537]

Originally Posted by DaytonaCoupe66

Ensure that you have this O ring part on your spindle. I'd suggest refreshing it based on the grit on your inner seal.

O-Ring for Front Wheel Spindle

It helps keep the road grime out of the back side of your inner bearings.

That o-ring is behind the race on the spindle. Often not necessary to replace that race.

[83_Silberpfeil]

For sure --- working w the fumes and fire hazard always a consideration (to avoid working with it).

Originally Posted by PeteKz

One shouldn't have to say this, but--don't use gasoline for the obvious reason that it's highly flammable. Use kerosene, diesel, or other less volatile solvents; or something nonflammable like the Zepp.

DaytonaC66 - I looked at your post and the link you provided. Looks like there is the larger thinner oring on the spindle; then there is the smaller thicker (quarter-sized) oring behind the spindle. I'll revisit to make sure I have both on FR and FL spindles.

Originally Posted by DaytonaCoupe66

Ensure that you have this O ring part on your spindle. I'd suggest refreshing it based on the grit on your inner seal.

O-Ring for Front Wheel Spindle

It helps keep the road grime out of the back side of your inner bearings.

Looks that way. I don't have the tools to remove that race on the spindle. May be I can rent/loan tool from FLAPS. But looks like it is better to do this job with the strut assembly removed from car. That is a 'slippery slope' that I am not prepared to take on at the moment.

Originally Posted by Locker537

That o-ring is behind the race on the spindle. Often not necessary to replace that race.

[DaytonaCoupe66]

Originally Posted by Locker537

That o-ring is behind the race on the spindle. Often not necessary to replace that race.

Poor choice of words on my part. This is what I was getting at - ensure that it's there. On my car it was MIA as well.

Front wheel bearing on spindle question

[IndyAlex]

I just did this. Mineral spirits and a parts washer work well to remove the loose stuff. I used an ultrasonic cleaner with aircraft cleaner simple green for the rest.

[83_Silberpfeil]

Great to have another option to try, as I go down the list of the suggestions from everyone here.

@IndyAlex -

Curious about your ultrasonic cleaner, what size/capacity? I searched on Harbor Freight. They had 2.5 L and 6 L versions. The 6 L version looked like it would fit the hub, or at least you could submerge it to a decent depth, then rotate it. How did it work with your set up? You used simple green --- so I guess the hub is steel, not aluminum? Read here that simple green on aluminum is not recommended.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by IndyAlex

I just did this. Mineral spirits and a parts washer work well to remove the loose stuff. I used an ultrasonic cleaner with aircraft cleaner simple green for the rest.

[Ctopher]

Originally Posted by 83_Silberpfeil

You used simple green --- so I guess the hub is steel, not aluminum? Read here that simple green on aluminum is not recommended.

Thanks!

You missed the important part of his comment “aircraft” which is the only simplegreen you want to use on aluminum. I would trust this over others and/or to rinse quickly comments some people say. I’ve used this for most all my cleaning needs. Especially in the engine bay. It foams good in a foam cannon too!

https://simplegreen.com/industrial/products/extreme-aircraft-precision-cleaner/


CTopher

[IndyAlex]

Originally Posted by 83_Silberpfeil

Great to have another option to try, as I go down the list of the suggestions from everyone here.

@IndyAlex -

Curious about your ultrasonic cleaner, what size/capacity? I searched on Harbor Freight. They had 2.5 L and 6 L versions. The 6 L version looked like it would fit the hub, or at least you could submerge it to a decent depth, then rotate it. How did it work with your set up? You used simple green --- so I guess the hub is steel, not aluminum? Read here that simple green on aluminum is not recommended.

Thanks!

I use a 16L ultrasonic cleaner - it works very well. I've found this to be the perfect size for most of the stuff I'm cleaning. Anything bigger, and I'll use the pressure washer.

I bought this one, but it looks like it's no longer available.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G59ZYWJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Originally Posted by Ctopher

You missed the important part of his comment “aircraft” which is the only simplegreen you want to use on aluminum. I would trust this over others and/or to rinse quickly comments some people say. I’ve used this for most all my cleaning needs. Especially in the engine bay. It foams good in a foam cannon too!

https://simplegreen.com/industrial/products/extreme-aircraft-precision-cleaner/


CTopher

Agreed, 100%! That's the stuff I've been using and it works so well.

[digitaldgp]

I removed all Bearings and Races to install new, and then used a glass bead Blasting cabinet to clean the hubs. Be sure to heat the hubs before installing new bearing races that have been frozen over night. I applied a light clear coat to the hubs when finished.

[83_Silberpfeil]

Very important distinction, indeed! I looked into this product label/specs --- does indicate it is safe for aluminum.

Perhaps I'm overthinking on this --- is the wheel hub/carrier even aluminum, or is it steel?

Originally Posted by Ctopher

You missed the important part of his comment “aircraft” which is the only simplegreen you want to use on aluminum. I would trust this over others and/or to rinse quickly comments some people say. I’ve used this for most all my cleaning needs. Especially in the engine bay. It foams good in a foam cannon too!

https://simplegreen.com/industrial/products/extreme-aircraft-precision-cleaner/


CTopher

[83_Silberpfeil]

Thanks for the tips on heating the hub and freezing the races. I'll need to figure out the heating part --- where to do it.

Great results/fotos you got there. I'm afraid you've set a bar that is beyond what I've set for my SC, at least for this round of projects. My goal is to get all dust/grease off before, replace race/bearings, clean out the wheel well, reassemble everything, including brakes, and get it back on the road.

Originally Posted by digitaldgp

I removed all Bearings and Races to install new, and then used a glass bead Blasting cabinet to clean the hubs. Be sure to heat the hubs before installing new bearing races that have been frozen over night. I applied a light clear coat to the hubs when finished.