911 SC rear brake restoration. How far to go?

[MRCarrera]

Hey everyone,

I am working on my brakes: getting the calipers restored, new discs, new parking brake shoes. And I’m trying to see if some parts need to be galvanized.

I am wondering if I should galvanize this(photo) part of. As well as if I the springs and other various parking brake parts.

Is that a bit of an overkill or does it need some attention.

[ADDvanced]

You didn't attach a photo.

[MRCarrera]

Yes I couldn’t get it working😅

Should be good now.

[83_Silberpfeil]

I am doing same for my 83 SC. You can search for my posts.

For the rear, I'm doing same as you, and also replacing the rubber lines, and the hard line attached to calipers. And, removed the dust shield, cleaned, sanded, and repainted. But, I'm leaving the emergency brakes alone. My SC has always been a California-based vehicle, based in SoCal. So, no corrosion. I'm leaving those items you show in your foto alone.

From your foto, it doesn't look too bad. Answer depends on if you'll drive during snowy, salty road conditions. If you only drive during dry Spring/Summer/Fall conditions, I would leave them as is.

[pete3799]

You'll never be closer to the rear wheel bearings then now.....
I did bearings and new CV's along with pads, rotors, and brake shoes.

[shoooo32]

Agreed, I'd replace the wheel bearings and rebuild the CV joints.

[MRCarrera]

Thanks a lot guys, I’m considering getting myself a car lift to get it all done now! Very tempted to do it.

I have another question:

I am checking if the bore of my caliper is still okay:

[Locker537]

Based on the paint mark on the end of the stub axle, I'm guessing it's never been apart?

Personally, I think it's very foolish to replace parts that are good. If the rear wheel bearings are good - meaning no noise when rotating and no excessive play felt when rocking the wheel - leave them alone.

I also would not galvanize or otherwise treat the hub. Leave it be. Clean the mating surfaces with some scotch brite or equivalent.

[shoooo32]

Originally Posted by Locker537

Personally, I think it's very foolish to replace parts that are good. If the rear wheel bearings are good - meaning no noise when rotating and no excessive play felt when rocking the wheel - leave them alone.

Parts have life cycles. Taking them to failure vs preventative maintenance both have valid arguments, but when you've removed most of the components necessary to swap a wheel bearing, it's common sense to perform that work. It's most likely original to the car and the "grease" has become petrified. Adding modern (read: sticky) tire compounds to the mix and it won't be long before they're howling.

[Locker537]

Originally Posted by shoooo32

Parts have life cycles. Taking them to failure vs preventative maintenance both have valid arguments, but when you've removed most of the components necessary to swap a wheel bearing, it's common sense to perform that work. It's most likely original to the car and the "grease" has become petrified. Adding modern (read: sticky) tire compounds to the mix and it won't be long before they're howling.

Sometimes it's a can of worms. Depends on miles, condition, etc, etc.

I did not say take them to failure! haha

Removing the parts to get to the hub and wheel bearing is the easy part. Pulling the hub and then pressing the bearings in and out the real part of the work for the job.

If you enjoy the work, then do it. But I wouldn't call it necessary without inspecting it first.

[MRCarrera]

I am considering it, I suppose I can take the hub to a shop where they can press the bearings?

Anyway what do you guys think of the caliper bore? There are some pits above the seal.

[83_Silberpfeil]

Well said. Proper bearing removal (w/o damaging the hub or trailer arm) and race on the hub, then install/pressing will require the appropriate tools. If you don't already have them, then need to acquire, "McGuyver-it" or take to a pro shop to get it done. If you can inspect the bearing or assess for wear/movement on hub, I would do that first before deciding to replace.

I just went through the front wheel hub/race replacement. I was down the path of replacing/refurb all 4 brakes. Since I had to remove front hubs to get to the front disc/rotor, I decided to replace bearings/race --- inner/outer on each wheel hub. Removal of race was fairly straightforward. Installing a race was not. I tried everything: oven baking the hub; freezing the race; then dry-ice freezing the race. Even then only installed one race successfully. Ended up taking the rest to pro shop. They installed it in less than 30 min.

Originally Posted by Locker537

Removing the parts to get to the hub and wheel bearing is the easy part. Pulling the hub and then pressing the bearings in and out the real part of the work for the job.

If you enjoy the work, then do it. But I wouldn't call it necessary without inspecting it first.

[Locker537]

Originally Posted by MRCarrera

I am considering it, I suppose I can take the hub to a shop where they can press the bearings?

Anyway what do you guys think of the caliper bore? There are some pits above the seal.

It's not only the hub. It's the whole trailing arm.

If you remove the trailing arm, you may end up wanting to have the car aligned after as well.

Tools exist to pull/press the bearings with the arm on the car. It works great.

You can do two things quite easily to inspect the bearings.

1. With the wheel off, brakes off, like you have it now - spin the hub by hand and listen. Bearings that are starting to wear and fail will make clicking, crunching sounds. It sounds kinda random.

2. With the wheel on (you don't need to put the brake back on for this), rock the wheel and feel for play. Put your hands at 9 and 3 o'clock and rock. Put your hands at 12 and 6 o'clock and rock. No play to a very small amount of play is fine. If it moves a bunch, it is time to replace.