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PCA Member since 1988
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Air reactor pipe plug came out of head
The heads on my engine are 1980 RoW SC heads that had plugs installed when the air reactor pipes were removed. A couple weeks ago I was doing a local PCA drive and the business end started getting noisy, like I blew out one exhaust gasket, and it was definitely on the drivers side.
Okay, maybe reusing the gaskets from the last time I took the heat exchanger off wasn't such a great idea... So, I crawled under the car yesterday and pulled off the left heat exchanger and found that the gaskets were in good shape and didn't appear to be leaking. Then I noticed the the plug that was in the #3 exhaust port was missing. The plug is a M10x1.5, and I am on my way to Ace Hardware to find a same size plug or a short bolt to put back in. How should I reinstall it so that it doesn't come loose again? Locktite? JB Weld? (no, I don't foresee ever removing it, in fact, I want to make damn sure it doesn't come back out). Lock washers? Star washers? Any/all of the above? TIA
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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06-20-2023, 03:31 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,454
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10X1.0. 1/8" pipe plug pretty much.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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06-20-2023, 04:31 PM
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PCA Member since 1988
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John thanks for the reply. I have an M10x1.5x20mm Allen head cap screw that I will use for now, which I will install with JB Weld. If that comes back out, I'll try the pipe thread plug, but that will require tapping the hole for pipe thread, and and because it's #3 head, the oil supply pipe is in the way. To re-tap the hole, I will need to remove the oil pipe, and that means draining the oil, yada, yada. That's what I hopefully won't have to do "next time."
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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06-20-2023, 07:50 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,454
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No tapping needed. Just run it in until it's tight. Brass hex head 1/8" pipe plugs. I use them all the time, trust me. The thread pitch is perfect. No sealer.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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06-20-2023, 08:53 PM
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PCA Member since 1988
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John, thanks again. I trust you. I'll go get one tomorrow, if I don't have one in my collection of brass pipe fittings. Brass, not iron?
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! Last edited by PeteKz; 06-20-2023 at 09:22 PM.. |
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06-20-2023, 09:08 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,454
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The hex head is the important part, so you can get a good grip on it with a 1/4 drive socket. Allen or square head sucks. Either brass or iron will work, I just seem to find brass with the hex.
Of course we're assuming there are still threads in the hole. But it should still get a grip and tighten up, being it's tapered.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 Last edited by john walker's workshop; 06-21-2023 at 06:17 PM.. |
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06-21-2023, 05:26 AM
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