Engine Builders in PNW (Portland)

[kyngfish]

There are a few engine builders I know here. Including some excellent guys if cost doesn’t matter - but prices seem to be particularly high in the Portland area. Looking for some options that might operate more in the Goldilocks space of price and expertise.

I may still do this myself but just found out a new baby is on the way so if I can find a good option I just may pay someone.

Recent leak down numbers are all 90+ and the oil pressures are excellent but it’s starting to burn a lot of oil and has 100k miles so I’m suspecting it’s top end time.

I can pull the engine and drive a few hours if that expands my options.

[fanaudical]

What are the real leak down numbers?

How is compression?

Can you please quantify how much oil you're burning?

I wouldn't expect a 3.2 to be ready for rebuilt at 100k miles if treated properly...

I don't have first-hand knowledge of "lower-cost" engine rebuilders in the area. (I rebuilt mine myself but did have others do the machine work.) Those rebuilders that I do know command higher prices and for good reason. I would start with Rothsport just to get an estimate.

[HarryD]

Valve guides? Exhaust look Like this? My car at 3-400 miles per quart.



If not, not time yet.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by fanaudical

What are the real leak down numbers?

How is compression?

Can you please quantify how much oil you're burning?

I wouldn't expect a 3.2 to be ready for rebuilt at 100k miles if treated properly...

I don't have first-hand knowledge of "lower-cost" engine rebuilders in the area. (I rebuilt mine myself but did have others do the machine work.) Those rebuilders that I do know command higher prices and for good reason. I would start with Rothsport just to get an estimate.

I would check with the usual suspects for a rebuild:
Marque Motors
Matrix
Heckmann Thiemann
A&P
Rothsport

[kyngfish]

Originally Posted by HarryD

Valve guides? Exhaust look Like this? My car at 3-400 miles per quart.



If not, not time yet.

I’m at around 300 per quart. I don’t get smoke like that on decel, but pretty much every stoplight it starts blowing smoke. I’m assuming the throttle body closing means more vacuum - which pulls oil through the guides.

I’ve had the car for 8 years or so, It was already at 500 miles or so per qt when i got it at 60k miles. 8 Years and 40k miles feels fair enough for some R&R.

Fairly certain it’s time, just looking for engine builder recs. Not looking to pay 20k.

[mepstein]

You won’t find an engine builder doing an entire rebuild for less than 20k.

[kyngfish]

Originally Posted by fanaudical

What are the real leak down numbers?

How is compression?

Can you please quantify how much oil you're burning?

I wouldn't expect a 3.2 to be ready for rebuilt at 100k miles if treated properly...

I don't have first-hand knowledge of "lower-cost" engine rebuilders in the area. (I rebuilt mine myself but did have others do the machine work.) Those rebuilders that I do know command higher prices and for good reason. I would start with Rothsport just to get an estimate.

Did you use local machine shops for the head work? If so, which ones?

[kyngfish]

Originally Posted by mepstein

You won’t find an engine builder doing an entire rebuild for less than 20k.

Eh, they’re around. Just not close to here.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by kyngfish

I’m at around 300 per quart. I don’t get smoke like that on decel, but pretty much every stoplight it starts blowing smoke. I’m assuming the throttle body closing means more vacuum - which pulls oil through the guides.

I’ve had the car for 8 years or so, It was already at 500 miles or so per qt when i got it at 60k miles. 8 Years and 40k miles feels fair enough for some R&R.

Fairly certain it’s time, just looking for engine builder recs. Not looking to pay 20k.

In the worst case, with your mileage, I would think a top end including rings, cylinder/piston reconditioning or replacement and a valve job will be needed. You bottom end “should@ be ok.

If my guess at the scope is correct, you will be under $15k but most likely over $10k.

[kyngfish]

Originally Posted by HarryD

In the worst case, with your mileage, I would think a top end including rings, cylinder/piston reconditioning or replacement and a valve job will be needed. You bottom end “should@ be ok.

If my guess at the scope is correct, you will be under $15k but most likely over $10k.

More or less what I expected. In other places I’ve lived there was always a guy who was doing good rebuilds in their garage because they used to work for X high end builder and went into business for themselves. Wanted to see if that existed here but I guess not.

Seems like I have a winter/spring project. At least I have a garage heater!

[nickelplated5s]

I'm local to the OP. Rothsports isn't taking new work to my knowledge as of a month ago. I've got an Oct. appointment at AnR. H&T had a changing of the 'guard' and are months out as well. Personally I would consider crating it and ship to CA. I've got two numbers around Carmel and others will have SoCal suggestions. One of the two Carmel #'s is semi-retired but did my motor.

Congrats on the incoming new addition.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by kyngfish

More or less what I expected. In other places I’ve lived there was always a guy who was doing good rebuilds in their garage because they used to work for X high end builder and went into business for themselves. Wanted to see if that existed here but I guess not.

Seems like I have a winter/spring project. At least I have a garage heater!

You might want to look at John Walker as well.

FWIW, for jobs like this, I prefer to find a guy who has already done this work many times. Why? Because while the physical work is fairly straight forward and there is lots of help, how do you know if what you are looking at is ok to reuse or recondition vs buying new. How do you ensure the new part is good to go? You cannot read about this. This is the secret sauce the pro-builder offers.

[kyngfish]

Originally Posted by nickelplated5s

I'm local to the OP. Rothsports isn't taking new work to my knowledge as of a month ago. I've got an Oct. appointment at AnR. H&T had a changing of the 'guard' and are months out as well. Personally I would consider crating it and ship to CA. I've got two numbers around Carmel and others will have SoCal suggestions. One of the two Carmel #'s is semi-retired but did my motor.

Congrats on the incoming new addition.

If you’re willing to PM me some contacts I’m happy to call around. There are some great engine builders around here. But in my opinion. Overpriced for what I use the car for. I don’t blame them. Overhead here is really high. Everything is expensive - and the market will bear those prices. Good for them.

[kyngfish]

Originally Posted by HarryD

You might want to look at John Walker as well.

FWIW, for jobs like this, I prefer to find a guy who has already done this work many times. Why? Because while the physical work is fairly straight forward and there is lots of help, how do you know if what you are looking at is ok to reuse or recondition vs buying new. How do you ensure the new part is good to go? You cannot read about this. This is the secret sauce the pro-builder offers.

I thought John Walker was out of the game as of a few years ago. But I’ll message him just in case. I still see him lurking around here from time to time. He’s a good dude.

[Matt Monson]

Originally Posted by kyngfish

I thought John Walker was out of the game as of a few years ago. But I’ll message him just in case. I still see him lurking around here from time to time. He’s a good dude.

He moved out of town and bought a place with a small shop on the property. He’s still taking work last I knew.

[nickelplated5s]

I will have to make a call tomorrow to see if I need permission to DM a number. The other one I'll have to call a friend to get that shop number. He moved from Napa and that is the shop he uses.

We are planning on PIR 7/16. White 67 if you make it.

[fanaudical]

Originally Posted by kyngfish

Did you use local machine shops for the head work? If so, which ones?

Admittedly, I did not use a local shop when I rebuilt my 2.7 as they were all booked out for several months at the time. I used Engine Machine Services in Inglewood, CA.

[kyngfish]

Originally Posted by nickelplated5s

I will have to make a call tomorrow to see if I need permission to DM a number. The other one I'll have to call a friend to get that shop number. He moved from Napa and that is the shop he uses.

We are planning on PIR 7/16. White 67 if you make it.

I’m out of town! But thanks for the heads up. Catching some rays before the awful PNW winter and a newborn puts me on lockdown.

[PeteKz]

Hands down: Dick Elverud in Hillsboro. His business name is Northwest Machine Products. He's both a Porsche engine builder and master machinist. Phone is 503-502-1609. He did the machine work on my heads crank and rods for the engine I built. He's close to 90 years old, so I don't know if he has retired in the past few months. Last time I talked to him was about 3 months ago.

Otherwise, there are several good builders in the Seattle area, including John Walker, who participates frequently in this forum, and whom others mentioned. I'd much prefer to deliver my engine project to Seattle than to crate it and ship it to California.