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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 3
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1973.5 911 T CIS runs great untill oil temp 180+
I have been all over my 73.5 T, repaired the cracked airbox and resealed any vac leaks I could find. Car stars and runs great until the oil reaches about 180+ degrees, which takes about 30-40 minutes, then it stumbles and acts weird. The pressures seem to be OK as far as system and WUR control. Im waiting for my NGK heat range BPR 6 ES plugs, which I now have heat range 7's, so I think Im grabbing at straws. Any thought on where I should look at next?
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07-25-2023, 03:29 PM
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banalytic
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Berlin, Germany
Posts: 76
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That sounds like your car may be developing an air leak that only appears once it's up to temp... check all your intake connections and do a smoke test on warmed up engine.
Also, to me it seems like it takes too long to reach 180+ degrees unless ambient temp is really freezing cold... Plugs heat range and changing from 6's (hotter) to 7's shouldn't have anything to do with it. Last edited by panama911; 07-26-2023 at 01:04 AM.. |
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07-26-2023, 01:01 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 3
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thanks will try that warmed up smoke test. The WUR pressure stabilizes probably within the limits of time, but could the heat from the engine make it act differently ?
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07-26-2023, 04:21 AM
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banalytic
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Berlin, Germany
Posts: 76
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The WUR will reach WCP before the engine is up to 180 - and once the bimetall is fully expanded, meaning has fully released it's pressure on the internal spring, it will not do anything further...
But also other components might fail with heat even though normally they shouldn't - ignition components like an aged HKZ or electronic distributors like the 123 come to mind... |
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07-26-2023, 05:30 AM
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What is the WUR ID on the intake?
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Ed 1973.5 T |
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07-26-2023, 07:28 AM
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PCA Member since 1988
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Picking up panama911 comment: A common item that causes the problems you describe is an ignition coil going bad. They usually misfire at higher load, RPM and under warmer or more humid conditions. If you have a spare coil or can get one, plug it in and see if that makes a difference.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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07-26-2023, 12:59 PM
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Post a photo of the spark plugs and which cylinders they are from when you remove them. It may give insight to what's going on inside the engine.
A few more details can help. How long have you had the car. Is this a recent problem? When did you last change gap points, rotor, plugs and wires? Do you have any actual fuel pressure readings? Can you give the numbers on the CIS parts? Air meter plate should be 0 438 120 02, fuel distributor 0 438 100 04, WUR 0 438 140 01, throttle position regulator 0 438 160 001.
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Ed 1973.5 T |
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07-28-2023, 10:40 AM
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The Other Woman
