Front Bilstein inserts
 

I received my Bilstein inserts today for my 82SC.
The question I have is should I remove the locking pin at the bottom before undoing
the top nut? What is the torque of the top nut?
Thanks for any tips.

You need to remove the 14mm nut inside the frunk, remove tie rod and separate ball joint from strut by removing nut and hammering out wedge bolt so you can push old strut down and out. Should use new wedge bolts make sure to keep nuts or buy new if I remember they’re a funky thread pitch.

Dpmulvan, You're assuming he has Boge struts, they may be Blstien replacements for Bilstien struts.

But don't they all still have the same wedge bolt to hold the strut to the ball joint? The Bilstein "legs" have the roll pins as part of retaining the insert into the leg which the Boge and Konis don't have.

I would loosen but not fully remove the nut in the frunk; this will keep the leg in place during disconnecting it from the ball joint and the tie rod.

I don't have boge struts they are Bilstein with the pin at the bottom.

Remove the top nut then drive out the roll pin.
Remove the caliper and you can lower the insert under the fender lip so you can r&r the insert without pulling it off the A-arm.

Thanks is it necessary to do a wheel alignment after?

No, you won’t need an alignment. Before you unbolt the strut mark the position with chalk or a light magic marker, that way your castor and camber are preserved. That is the 3 bolts at the strut tower.
Now, on my 81sc I installed Bilstein B6 sport struts and I took a close look at the strut caps. There is a bushing within those caps. I felt that one was worn so I replaced them both with elephant racing strut caps. Gives you an extra 3/4 or so more of travel. When you have the new strut insert in your hand insert it into the strut. Don’t run the bottom pin in just yet. Now see if there is any play in the strut insert. In other words grasp the top of the insert and see if there is any lateral play at the top.
Appreciate that I’m told there are bushings near the bottom of the strut. In my opinion I don’t think they are critical in that once you install the bottom pin the strunt will not have any play, at least at the bottom. I feel the strut caps are more important. They can be tapped off the top of the strut. Our host sells the elephant racing strut caps.

No alignment needed. You are not touching the retaining plates on top of the strut tower. Once you replace the insert, you can place a jack under the a-arm, below the ball joint and jack the strut back into position in the strut tower. Then replace all the washers and nut and you’re done. There is no need to remove the strut from the a-arm/ball joint or strut tower plate.
The strut will flop around once you remove it from the strut tower so make sure your fender is protected. A piece of cardboard is fine.

Wedge bolt = 16 ft-lbs; Ball Joint Castle Nut = 184 ft-lbs and Upper Strut Mount = 58 ft-lbs. You'll need a hammer with some heft to it. At first tried to drive the roll pin in with a 16 oz. ball peen, that bad boy was a tight fit.

Note the orientation of the roll pin slot when you remove and reinstall. It's important.

You’re right, my bad.

tip ,, line your fender lip with painters tape, then on top of that duct tape,, protect your paint...

From memory Bilsteins will have significant preload so compressing the insert enough to get it under the fender lip may be difficult. Raising the whole front end off the ground so that you’re not fighting the anti-roll bar will help.

I had to replace my Bilstien inserts. I am just not strong enough to do it all myself.

I used a impact gun to zip the big not off from the top in the trunk. Obviously remove the wheel. Then summon the hulk and push down on the shock enough to get it under the fender lip. It helps if you have a buddy use a long pry bar or pipe to push down on the A-arm a little. Once it out of the fender relax, and it will go back up.

Then the hard part, getting the nut off the top of the shock.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1691011539.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1691011575.jpg

I have a 3 foot 1/2 inch wrench. Getting the annoying tool to stay on the nut, and pushing at just a 90 degree angle is a challenge. That is when it is vital to have a strong helper to hold the strut. Many mechanics just use a large channel lock pliers to remove it, and the install it.

Getting the new ring but back on and tight is fun!

Then summon Hulk again to compress the shock, and get it compressed as much as possible, get it under the fender and aim for the hole! It will raise up and go into the hole for the strut. Then get out the impact gun again, and tighten up the new nut.

There is sometimes a washer, with the edge bent up to make a lock. Easy enough to remove.

No need to touch the ball joint if it is in good shape. My Bilstiens started leaking after just a few years. Hopefully this set will last longer.

Good luck, and just call over a strong buddy. It is not hard, just a lot easier with two men.

I don't think I have the same setup as you describe, I have the Bilstein struts with the shock inserts that have the roll pin at the bottom and one nut at the top.

This article may be helpful: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/101_Projects_Porsche_911/63-Shocks/63-Shocks.htm

There are a lot of replies in here that do not apply.

It doesn't really matter if you drive out the roll pin or remove the top nut first. But it would be good to remove the brake caliper and hose from the strut and support the a-arm before you do either.
You might want to have an impact wrench for the top nut.

As stated above, compress the strut insert, lean it out from under the fender, and remove from the housing.

When installing the new inserts, make sure they are fully seated in the strut, and make sure the seam in your roll pin is facing away from the strut insert shaft. There is often decomposed rubber from old snubbers in the bottom of the strut, and it can prevent the shaft from seating properly.

Removed and replaced.
Had trouble getting the passenger side insert out and it seemed to be stuck at the bottom but I sprayed a bit of PB blaster in the dowel pin hole and eventually it pulled up and off.
Thanks for all the tips. The hardest part really is compressing the new shock down to clear the fender and getting it back into the top mount.

Congrats. Enjoy the ride.