![]() |
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 55
|
over dremeled! cut threads oil case union
Woe is me, got carried away with the dremel. Put some cuts into the threads of the union that screws into the crankcase and connects the oil line
Feeling optimistic after successfully removing the oil lines on 78 SC from the thermostat, removing the heat exchangers with no broken studs, yanking off all the air injection stuff, etc. etc., I had one last task. I needed to remove the oil line to the crankcase to back date the set up (for SSI). The friggin line would not budge at the case. First heat, then wrench, heat again, hit the wrench with hammer -- nothing -- and I was not bashful about applying considerable force. So, out comes the dremel which had worked on the thermostat oil lines without incident. But this time I underestimated the depth of the nut and put two cuts through the nut --- AND into the threads of the male union (30mm? coupler) that protrudes from the case. Although I think it would hold the line, I want to replace that coupler part as well, but it barely turns. And I think that the scavenge part of oil pump might be connected somehow on inside of case. Can this thing be removed externally? Is it installed with some form of loctite? I don't want to break the thing off in the case, nor do I want to disturb any seal on the inside to the oil pump. Should I just leave it alone? Thanks for for your help. Tom |
||
![]() |
|
Friend of Warren
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 16,496
|
If you were cutting at right angle to the threads I don't think you will have a problem threading the connector back on. The seal is made at the flared ends and oil should not be able to reach the threads.
__________________
Kurt V No more Porsches, but a revolving number of motorcycles. |
||
![]() |
|
Information Junky
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: an island, upper left coast, USA
Posts: 73,167
|
What Kurt said, + be extra careful not to cross thread. . .it's much easier for the nut to catch the wrong start, now that there is more than one opened thread end.
__________________
Everyone you meet knows something you don't. - - - and a whole bunch of crap that is wrong. Disclaimer: the above was 2¢ worth. More information is available as my professional opinion, which is provided for an exorbitant fee. ![]() |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,020
|
While dremeling off the nut on the oil tank line from the thermostat, I cut deeply into the thread of the thermostat and even a little bit into the pressure fit sealing surface. Now that its all back together, I have driven 70 miles with no signs of leakage. I put lots of anti-seize on the thread and tightened it very hard.
__________________
John C 1988 911 Carrera coupe 2002 BMW 530 |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Kurt V has the answer !
__________________
87 Carerra Coupe 04 GMC Yukon 07 Mazda 3 00 GMC Sierra |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 55
|
Kurt V, Island, Decolliber, and Toolman -- thanks for the feedback.
Yeah, the threads were cut perpendicular to the thread, so I guess that while the threads may have lost some strength where they are now missing, it should not leak oil and I am counting on Porsche over-engineering. Jeez, if I couldn't turn the thing with the untold torque I put on it, the little bit of missing thread shouldn't mean that much. Someone sent me the specification for the torque on the union coupler that fits into the case on one end and then the oil line on the other. 96 pounds or something ridiculous like that when installed new. Anyway, thanks! Tom |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |