The Johnson's Jubilee furniture polish is a gentle vehicle for the clay to roll on so that the crap that is picked up in the clay isn't dry and work like sandpaper on your paint. Griot's is just down the road from here in Tacoma WA.

I'll give rolling ashot but sliding has been working quite well so far. Leaves behind a noticeably smoother surface. I've clayed half of my hood before and slid my fingers over the now smooth surface and can easily identify where the clayed surface ends. I'll try the same thing with rolling and then slide the other half. Maybe I'll learn something.

Man, there's a lot of misinformation out there about this stuff. The difference between using clay and polish is that the clay lifts particles from the paint without taking any paint off, and polish actually removes particles AND paint. The clay is just a cleaning device and will do nothing to remove scratches.

I just did my black '88 Carrera and the result was AMAZING. It only took about 3/4 hour to clay the entire car after I washed it. The paint felt relatively smooth to the touch after it was washed, but after using the clay it was glass smooth. Unbelieveable. And not a scratch in the paint from using the clay.

I used Mother's brand because it was available locally. It came with a lubricant spray. I started on the sunroof panel, wetted it down and lightly rubbed the clay over the surface. It doesn't take any pressure at all, and you can immediately feel the surface get smooth under the clay.

I hadn't used it before because I was afraid that if the clay is picking up particles, they would scratch the paint as you moved it across the surface. But I see no evidence of that at all. A friend used it on his black Miata and the results were incredible, so I decided to try it. I think that the particles quickly push into the clay because it's a lot softer than the paint. I just kneaded the clay after each panel and got a fresh surface to work with.

I think 3 things are key: Use plenty of lubricant (any of the "quick detailing" sprays will work), don't rub hard and knead the clay often.

I hate to sound like an infomercial , but this stuff is truly amazing. And if it worked so well on 15 year old black paint, I can't imagine that it's going to hurt anything else. My car has never looked so perfect.

Wavey is headed in the right direction, claying and polishing are doing two totally seperate things to your paint!

Polishing is removing a small portion of the surface of your paint while claying is actaully pulling slightly embeded particles out of the paint like rail/brake dust etc. Neither is a substitute for washing and/or waxing (don't use clay to clean your car, basically).

To stick with claying alone:

The desired result is to extract particles from your paint that don't belong there. So you have this (hopefully) smooth surface with tiny particles like brake dust that embed themselves in there and stick, like a splinter in your finger with the end sticking out. As you 'wipe' the otherwise smooth surface of the paint with the lubricated clay bar, the part of the particle that's above the surface gets caught in the 'tacky' clay and is pulled from the surface of the paint. Assuming you're gliding the clay over the surface of the paint lightly, the particle won't have enough pressure to further scratch the paint under most circumstances. As the clay becomes 'saturated' with particles common practice is to fold it on itself (instead of kneading) to get a perfectly clean piece of clay. Some have suggested rolling instead of gliding but I respecfully disagree. Most particles are embeded in the paint otherwise they would come off during the wash. Rolling the clay will get some of the particles but the more stubborn ones are 'attached' to the paint and the best way for the clay to gain purchase is by gliding the clay putting the pressure at an angle rather than pushing the particle towards the paint and then trying to use the 'grip' of the lubricated clay to pull the particle up. Do a test on a hood with both methods and you'll see (or rather feel) the difference.

The other thing to note is that clay does nothing to remove swirl marks or scratches. It removes impurities that are sticking up out of the otherwise smooth paint surface but does not 'cut' the paint in any way. That's where polish comes in!

The widely accepted 'order of operations' is to wash, dry, clay, polish, paint prep (if needed), wax. Clay before polish so the paint is as clean as possible before begining the paint cutting polishing. You don't want rouge particles in the polish making swirl marks as you're trying to cut them away!

There are certainly a lot of opinions on these subjects but there are also quite a few facts. Do your reasearch, slap the leather, and don't use too much pressure at any stage and you'll be fine!

Enjoy!

I went to a PCA seminar on detailing recently. A rep from 3M was there. He wasn't selling clay, but when he was asked about it, he raved. He said he really liked it.

Polish means two different things. In Meguiar-speak it does not include abrasives and is meant to feed the paint. Be sure to do that after you clay. You only need to clay if a cleaner does not remove all particles from the finish (run your hand over the finish and you'll feel bumps).

Clay is very fine, and picks up particulates and can actually suck them off the surface from its cohesive properties. (Some think that the first living things began as chemicals organized upon clay templates). Rolling the clay should work.
I am a "slider, not a "roller" by the way.

I agree with everything except that I would rewash the car after claying and before the polish.

I still like the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. I used it a few weeks ago and results were simply amazing!!! I have a clear coat finish and the hand glaze cleaned it up very nicely!

Check out this site.
 

Here's a well written article on the subject.

http://www.properautocare.com/usclaybartor.html

Actually, the other page on the site has several related articles and links.

http://www.properautocare.com/detailingtips.html

I used the clay several years ago on my red 1987. Used plenty of the lubricant. Paint was much smoother and easier to wax afterward. Have gotten lots of compliments on the cars shine ever since. I did notice it is not recommended for daily use. Its intented purpose was to remove overspray or a very nasty finish. I was very careful with it having remembered buffing completely thorough the finish by hand on an old Triumph I owned years ago. Never tried the 1500 grit method but suspect it would work well also.

yes, wash, clay, wash again, hand polish, wash again, wax, have a beer and admire (Put on sunglasses to avoid the glare).

I recommend it.

Clay is a real pain to use, you'll get a real workout. I have a white '87 and can see the difference. The clay does remove a lot of embedded (hate that term, over-used by the media recently) grit. It seems to most useful on frontal surfaces that are impacted by road grit while driving. I wouldn't bother with the other surfaces as they don't seem to collect any significant grit. Darker cars probably won't show such a dramatic difference after claying as the lighter colored.

Workout? I'd say it's about as much work as sliding a wet bar of soap over a piece of glass - almost no effort at all.

I agree Wavey, couldn't be easier. Here in the NW the fir trees can play havoc on car paint. Spray a small area with speed shine and run the claybar over the area. Wipe off the speed shine and you have a smooth clean finish. I can do the whole car is 10-15 minutes. Nothing to it. My paint is original and in outstanding shap. This stuff doesn't scratch the paint. Just kneed the bar over and over.

Straight from 'Zaino's' web site:They were just named the #1 wax out of 46 waxes.
Quickly and safely removes contamination. Makes your paint feel smooth as glass!

Z-18 ClayBar™ is a pliable, synthetic bar that quickly and safely removes imbedded contamination from all glass and painted surfaces. Used for years by automobile manufacturers and auto body shops, paint cleaning clay is an excellent choice for removing contamination that cannot be removed using conventional cleaning methods.

Z-18 ClayBar™ is non-abrasive and works like no cleaner, compound or chemical can. When used as directed, it is safe for use on all paint finishes.

Use Z-18 ClayBar™ to help remove the following:

Rail dust - Tiny, sharp bare metal shavings that can adhere and imbed into the paint finish and cause serious damage when left untreated. Over 70% of new vehicles are transported from the factory using the rail system. In many cases, new cars are stored near a railroad and becomes infected with rail dust.


Brake Dust - Similar to rail dust, brake dust is also in the form of tiny, sharp metal shavings. In recent years, asbestos brake pads were replaced with metallic brake pads, which are actually brake pads made from tiny metal or metallic shavings. Anytime a vehicle is braking; brake dust is disbursed into the air and onto the paint finish. Since the brake dust is now actually tiny particles of bare metal, this form of brake dust can seriously damage the paint finish when left untreated.

Industrial Fallout - A general term used for pollution and can be found in many forms. Eventually, pollution settles onto the paint finish of all vehicles and can cause serious damage when left untreated.

Tree Sap, Road Tar, Bug Residue, Paint Overspray, and Acid Rain Deposits -- These contaminants adhere to or imbed into the paint finish. Left untreated, they will cause permanent damage to your car's paint work by staining and weakening the protective properties.
Z-18 ClayBar™ is highly recommended as the ultimate way to clean and prepare your car's finish prior to using the Zaino Show Car Polish system.




APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS

Before using a Z-18 ClayBar™ on your car, you must thoroughly clean and dry your car to remove any loose dirt. Direct sunlight should not fall on your car's surface, and it's best if the work area is relatively cool to prevent rapid evaporation of the clay lubricant. Do not risk scratching your car; if you drop your clay bar, throw it away!


To use Z-18 ClayBar™, you spray a water-based lubricant on a small area of your car and rub the bar back and forth with light to medium pressure. If the lubricant begins to dry, you'll need to spray more. Z-18 is fairly sticky, and cannot be used dry. If you try using it dry, you'll make a big mess. We suggest mixing one cap full of Z-7 Show Car Wash with water in a 16 ounce spray bottle. Z-6 also works as a lubricant for Z-18 ClayBar, but Z-7 Show Car Wash is much more cost effective.


After a few passes with the Z-18 ClayBar™, rub your hand over the area to feel if the surface contamination was removed. Keep rubbing until all contamination bumps are gone. Finally, wipe the clay residue off with a soft terrycloth towel, and buff to a nice luster. Just like polishing with Zaino Show Car Polish, work in small areas.


Check your Z-18 ClayBar frequently for hard particles. When found, pick them off. Make it a habit to occasionally knead and reform the bar so that a fresh portion of the bar contacts your car's paint. If you drop your bar of clay on the ground, it's history. Toss it out. Don't take any chances, discard the clay bar if it becomes impregnated with grit.


Do not overuse. A single bar will do 3-4 medium size cars with moderate contamination. If you are removing heavy overspray or rail dust, use the bar once and throw it away.


When you're finished claying your car, you should wash it with Z-7 Show Car Wash to remove the lubricant film. Finally, seal your freshly cleaned paint with your choice of Z-2 Show Car Polish for Clear Coated Car Finishes, Z-3 Show Car Polish for Non-clear Coated Paint, or Z-5 Show Car Polish for Swirl Marks and Fine Scratches.

I have had great success with clay. Use lots of lubrication with the clay. The finish comes out like glass if done correctly.

Thanks for all the advice. I will give it a go now. Maybe I will take some before and after shots