Putting a track car back on the road.

[Dirtybob]

John, my friend (and employer since 2011), passed away at the end of May. He had a 1980 Porsche 911 SC (Carerra?) that was set up for track use, car has been sitting in storage since around 2013. His widow wants to put the car back on the street as a fair weather driver.

I'm doing the majority of the work on it and am not particularly familiar with old Porsches. I've done brakes and oil changes on this car a few times in the past. My mechanical background is from 30 years of drag racing and doing maintenance on shop & personal vehicles. Registering here seemed like a good idea, might need some help with this.

The plan is to get it road worthy first then maybe make it a bit more street friendly.
I got it running and moved it over to our shop for closer inspection. Car is fun to drive but very stiff and somewhat darty on our less than perfect roads. Had great oil pressure and no leaks.
Found no play in the bearings, tie rods, steering etc. Pulled the passenger side brakes and both calipers were frozen and the pads were beginning to disintegrate, rotors looked good. One wheel stud needs replaced (or tack welded), knurl is stripped.
We have a set of rear calipers on hand, had to order fronts plus new pads all around. Also got new tires mounted/balanced and grabbed filters. Plan to use valvoline vr-1 20w50 oil.
Once the brakes are done it's going to an alignment shop to be put back to factory ride height and alignment spec. Then maybe it will get driven some more.

Modifications AFAIK:
lowered slightly, 3 sets of wheels
3” 14x1.50 wheel studs
track specific alignment job
roll cage, interior bits missing from the doors as a result
racing seat and 5 point harness on both sides
after market shifter
fuel cell
fire suppression system
ac deleted
O2 sensor delete
after market heat exchangers (I would call them headers)
probable after market pedals
lexan windshield with wipers removed
tach and speedo clocked so that max rpm & mph puts the needle straight up
factory oil and fuel level gauges don't work
dual EGTs
John mentoned an 'euro spec' cam – I don't know what that means.
He had work done on the CIS back in 2012-13, don't know what was done (idle issues). They also set the valve lash. I put fresh intake gaskets on it around the same time.

Questions for now:
How do I remove the speedo & tach so I can re-clock them?
Where should I look for wiper arms?

[jac1976]

You’ll find a wealth of knowledge on this board, I’m not a major contributor to that. However, I can tell you that the gauges can be pulled right out of the bin. It may take a little twisting back and forth, but they’ll come right out.

[Mark Salvetti]

By re-clock, you mean rotate them right-side-up? Yep, gently work them out of the dash. They are held in place by friction and a rubber ring.

It probably has stiffer (thicker) torsion bars too. Most likely why the ride is stiff. I think replacing those to something softer will make the biggest difference in ride quality. But replacing them means having to re-align and reset ride height. So worth doing that now I think.

I believe 1980 USA ride height is on the high side. Should be about 25.5 inches to the center of the front fender lip, and 25 inches at the rear. That will give you a slight nose-down attitude.

Those mufflers are really strange. Dual exhaust is not usually done that way, even with headers. Probably has no heat or defrost, so replacing the headers with factory heat exchangers or SSI aftermarket heat exchangers is worth considering if it gets cold there.

I would look for wiper arms on eBay, on Buy & Sell here (More Porsche Parts), or a dismantler (like DC Auto).

Mark

[Dirtybob]

Good to know about the gauges, I like easy.
Had not considered it could have aftermarket torsion bars. Are they easy to ID visually? Simple enough to get more pics...
Wont be checking ride height until the brakes are done. Car is currently in the air and is not much fun to get on and off the hoist.
Car will be garaged most of the time (definitely in the winter) so heat is not too urgent.

Thanks to you both for the feedback.

[Mark Salvetti]

Originally Posted by Dirtybob

Good to know about the gauges, I like easy.
Had not considered it could have aftermarket torsion bars. Are they easy to ID visually? Simple enough to get more pics...
Wont be checking ride height until the brakes are done. Car is currently in the air and is not much fun to get on and off the hoist.
Car will be garaged most of the time (definitely in the winter) so heat is not too urgent.

Thanks to you both for the feedback.

Unfortunately impossible to check without some disassembly. Easiest way is probably to remove a front bar. You should be able to get that out without altering the ride height. There is an adjustment cap on the end with a screw. That has to go back on in the exact same orientation or you will alter the ride height.

If the front is not stock (18.8mm) the rear won't be either. And vice versa.

Checking and/or replacing the rears is much more time-consuming and alters the alignment, and adjusting the ride height can be more difficult as well. There is some adjustment available on the spring plate, but if you need to adjust the height more than 1/2-inch or so, you'll need to remove and re-index the rear bars. Since you're in there, perfect time to change them.

You don't have to go back to stock. A compromise between stock and track sizes is common.

Mark

[PeteKz]

If I were working in that car, I would start by identifying what suspension parts are in it.
Do you plan to remove the roll cage?

[47silver]

You may want to use an oil such as brad penn or valvolines motorcycle oil.
Since the car was set up for thev track, you Need to check wheel camber, caster and toe and adjust back to stock on front and rear.

['78 SC]

Appears to have stock bumpers F/R, original steering wheel and stock interior bits like heater controls, console and dash. That would suggest it was never fully converted for racing, not even a "stock" class. Maybe just DEs and track days? Odd that it would have a lexan windshield, given the other items are stock.

Owner must have been very safety conscious, given the fire suppression system and fuel cell. New fuel tanks are available, so that can be reversed. Possibly will need to rework the fuel pump location and plumbing a bit.

Like PeteKz suggests, the big changes likely are the suspension, specifically torsion bars and sway bars. Also the exhaust. Going back to original is going to be a matter of finding used stock parts and returning to factory alignment settings. Selling the race parts would help defray costs.

Good luck with the rescue.

Steve

PS What kinds of wheels - asking for a friend

[Dirtybob]

I guess I should have mentioned that the widow wants to drive this car to something or other in a few weeks. Will try to ID the torsion bars at the alignment shop but she may not want to swap them out yet, will talk to her tonight/tomorrow. Alternately, we would put a 'sane' alignment on it, leave the ride height alone and let her drive it some.
@ '78SC, you're exactly right. John only drove it to DEs/track days and was almost comically safety conscious. The headers will be staying on, she likes the sound plus there is no emissions inspection here and she doesn't necessarily need heat in a sunday fun car.
All I know about the wheels is there's two sets of 16" and one set of 17" BBS.

[Dirtybob]

Originally Posted by PeteKz

Do you plan to remove the roll cage?

not currently
this could change after she drives the car a bit...

[stownsen914]

Looks like a fun project. Kind of you to help your friend's widow with this!
This forum will be your friend. There is a ton of info here.
A couple things you might have already thought of, and one quick caveat that might not be so obvious:
Consider the safety of driving around with a cage on the street. Without a helmet, a cage can be more of a safety liability than an improvement. If it happens to be bolt in, consider removing the front part of the cage.
Fuel cell foam is notorious for breaking down over time and clogging the fuel system. Consider changing it. Or if it's to be for street use only and you're not putting a stock tank back at least for now, just remove the foam (or whatever is left of it).
You may have already addressed the oil change, but check it running and warm, and check with the tank dipstick). It's easy to overfill and create problems.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by Dirtybob

I guess I should have mentioned that the widow wants to drive this car to something or other in a few weeks. Will try to ID the torsion bars at the alignment shop but she may not want to swap them out yet, will talk to her tonight/tomorrow. Alternately, we would put a 'sane' alignment on it, leave the ride height alone and let her drive it some.
@ '78SC, you're exactly right. John only drove it to DEs/track days and was almost comically safety conscious. The headers will be staying on, she likes the sound plus there is no emissions inspection here and she doesn't necessarily need heat in a sunday fun car.
All I know about the wheels is there's two sets of 16" and one set of 17" BBS.

Great way to help the widow.

If it was me, my initial plans:

-Get the car to a Porsches specific shop and ensure it has stick torsion bars and a street corner balance and alignment.
-Remove roll cage and install standard 3 point seat belts.
-Replace the tires in the 16 inch wheels with a nice set of all season tires (softer sidewalks and more comfy ride).

[Rodsrsr]

Sounds like the OP is on the right track.

I would definitely remove the roll cage since they're designed to be used on a track with a helmet. Pretty dangerous for a street car.

Climbing in and out of those seats with 5 point harnesses will get old pretty quick, so I would revert to stock seats/belts along with some dash work. (vent area)

Last thing is please get rid out those god awful mufflers hanging out back.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by Rodsrsr

Sounds like the OP is on the right track.

I would definitely remove the roll cage since they're designed to be used on a track with a helmet. Pretty dangerous for a street car.

Climbing in and out of those seats with 5 point harnesses will get old pretty quick, so I would revert to stock seats/belts along with some dash work. (vent area)

Last thing is please get rid out those god awful mufflers hanging out back.

Totally agree with these suggestions.

If the lady wants sound, go with a 2 in 2 out sport or pea shooter style.

['78 SC]

Dirtybob,

When you have the alignment and ride height set, make sure the shop checks the corner balance (as Harry said). It's easy to change ride height, and even easier to mess up the corner weights such that the car sits level, but two opposite corners are carrying (much) more weight than the other diagonal. This is especially a problem for braking.

Condolences to John's wife - it's great that she will continue to drive the vehicle.

[Dan J]

Would strongly suggest removal of at least the front of the cage and putting fia padding on the remaining part. Cages are meant for use with a helmet and 5 point harness and are a safety hazard when driving on the street without those. You'll get it out in short order with a sawzall

[Dirtybob]

Not much to add today, still waiting on calipers. Talked to her about the cage (it's not a bolt in) and she (correctly) pointed out that unless she's not belted in, there's no way her head could hit the bar since she's 5 foot nothing (has 9+ inches of clearance, I checked). Does need new padding on the cage, old stuff is getting hard. I'm sure she'll eventually get tired of the cage and seats but not just yet.
Car took 11.5 qts of oil. Checked level with car on hoist and not fully warmed up, just ran it long enough for the idle to drop. Level was showing slightly above the min line. Small amount of water/oil sludge on the tank drain plug.

wheels that she wants on the car, fresh rubber already mounted/balanced.


the others



more of that exhaust 'yall love so much

[HarryD]

Nice progress.

FWIW, I agree with the others, the roll cage needs to go.

Oil Level: Assuming it is the factory oil system, the oil level can ONLY be properly checked when the car is fully warmed up. Otherwise, you are risking an overfill. You "should" have more than enough with 11.5 quarts.

[nickelplated5s]

Leave the gauges as is. Easy to read like a clock, mine are the same. Cut the cage out and wait til after the trip for the suspension. That will be time consuming and needs tools I don't have.

Harry D, didn't I invite you to lunch?

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by nickelplated5s

Leave the gauges as is. Easy to read like a clock, mine are the same. Cut the cage out and wait til after the trip for the suspension. That will be time consuming and needs tools I don't have.

Harry D, didn't I invite you to lunch?

I don’t recall a lunch date.