Anyone backdate their fenders with the turn signal boxes?
 

Hello,

I'm sure many have but has anyone here backdated their fenders with the longhood turnsignal boxes and document it so an idiot like me can understand?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1695068833.JPG

Ain’t no documentation that’s gonna help- it’s invent as you go!!

In a nutshell here’s what I did:

- cut the short hood fenders off so that the new fender frame can fit over the fenders. This is just the first clearance cut so it doesn’t need to be precise as there’s more cutting to come: you just need to make room for the new light box frames to fit so you can fine tune them

- remove the paint a few inches above the cut and coat with marking fluid. You’ll need to weld so get that paint off.

- use a laser lever to align the bottom of the turn signal frames with the bottom of the hood: you want everything level. Do this on the sides too; you want the bottom of the fenders to be level and not wonky. Having the bumper installed will hep too as you can fit the light box frames up and check the gap all around.

- use clekos or sheet metal screws or tape to hold the frames to the fender. I used tape; it’s fine. Clekos are pro, sheet metal screws are good, tape is fine, plus, no extra holes to weld.

- scribe the top of the new fender light box frame to the existing fender. Use a proper scribing tool into the marking fluid, not a sharpie as the line will be thick and irregular.

- cut the fender just shy of the line you scribed. Easier to remove more than to put it back

- use a file or grinder or sandpaper, etc to inch up to that line making sure that it’s tight to the top edge of the light box frame.

- once everything is tight and in position; weld. Go super slow as the light box frame are thin and will warp with rapid welding.

You’ll need hammer and dolly and filler to make sure that it’s all smooth but that’s not all that difficult in the grand scheme.

The light box frames are kind of wonky so it may help to put the light boxes and lenses in to get them to hold the proper shape- even then you’ll still likely have to work them a bit to get them looking right.

Thanks Julian, that actually makes sense, I wasn't 100% on what was happening on the backside, like if they butt up against the stock fender or need to hammer in a ledge or something, or what, I fully admit that I'm not a body guy but am pretty handy and have a few good friends that can weld, so maybe I can prep these up to the point of welding and have someone finish it for me.

It sounds a lot more complicated than it really is, and once you start doing it, it all starts to make sense. That first cut is really intimidating, but then it gets much easier.

Here is a video of Ryan giving an overview on the backdating of my fenders. The actual welding is done on a later video in the series depending on what insights you are looking for.

https://youtu.be/d5EdGdI637Q?si=WG70_TDZXcdolRGs

Thank you, kinda funny as I have one of his vids saved to my "watch later" group. I tagged this one too!

I was wondering if that car was someone here. He is doing some very nice / good work, I dread to think of the cost.
I actually tried to get the manufacturer of the housings and lenses they were using, but couldn't catch it. You don't happen to know do you?

S-T parts out of Germany makes the light box frames. As I understand it, they are the source for everyone else who sells them…

They’re nice pieces of kit if you have the ability to work with metal and do bodywork as they’re FAR from plug and play.

That said, for diy, they save a ton of money versus new shorthood fenders, which likely also require work.