The HP+ is Hawk's street/track pad, for sure not a track-focused pad. Their operating range tops out at 800F. They're enough for tracks without heavy consecutive braking zones like Grattan, while still being comfortably streetable--no noise no dust. It'd be a shame to go for something more track specific but it might be necessary if I go back.

Beware of track pads on the street...

Many, many years ago I made this mistake. I installed Pagid Orange pads on my '72, thinking they would be the ticket for the track. Well, on my first morning thereafter, driving to work, I had a revelation. As I was approaching my first stoplight on a cold, wet Pacific Northwest fall morning, I applied the brakes. Nothing happened. Literally nothing. I was fast approaching a stationary step bumper on the aft end of a lifted pickup... and nothing was happening...

Fortunately, the light turned, and the driver reacted fairly quickly. I had already grabbed the handbrake, and just avoided shattering my (largely decorative) front "bumper" on his differential housing. Literally no brakes.

I wound up driving the rest of the way to work with my left foot on the brake in an attempt to keep some heat in them. When I returned home that late afternoon, I drove it the same way. Those pads were off the car and back on the shelf literally before dinner.

The "best" pads that I have found for my street/track use are the OEM Porsche pads offered by our host. Not anything labelled as "Porsche OEM supplier", like the Mintex, Metal Master, or other such. The "real", current, Porsche OEM pads. There is a difference - I've had "OEM supplier" pads transfer material to the disc under track use (talk about inducing a brake shudder). Those pads must not use the Porsche specified (and likely proprietary) compounds, even if they were once "Porsche OEM" suppliers. The "Porsche" branded pads have never done that for me. More expensive than some, but cheaper than true track pads, I have found them to provide exceptional braking on both street and track.

I've had great luck with Pagid blue street/track pads as well. I wish our host still supplied them. I went through a dozen sets of those before they became harder to source. The closest I have found are the real Porsche OEM as supplied by our host.

Pagid orange were the worst track pads I ever had the misfortune to use, Blue were ok for street, though very dusty, and both yellows were excellent track pads and on on the street

I currently use Textar for street and PFC 08 for track, since I'm also lazy the Pagid yellows(19 & 29) and the PFCs are on the car for street use too, no problems w/ them

when you run ducting to the eye of the rotor if you dont make a block off plate for the outside of the rotor you blow your air in one side of the rotor and out around the hub
and not through the rotor.

993 vram stock brakes, hawk HT-10 pads motul 600
1981 euro sc. 2400# on the scales. Iroc bumper for the duct intakes.

been tracking the car heavily for 10 years.
I'm not Pat Long but I ain't that slow either.

never a hint of brake fade or any kind of soft pedal.

No offense intended, but have you ever discussed braking technique
with a good instructor.

The 2400 pound part helps alot too.

I've never run gratton but I've hit everything on the east coast. Even
trailered to the glen a couple of times.

I'm sure mr Verberg will correct me if I'm giving bad advice.

These are at least equivalent to 930s so in themselves are 90% of the track solution

and 2400#s is another huge plus

the bigger the rotor, the better the cooling the less thermal problems

depending on which 993 they are off of they could also be the 993t/RS 32x3222 versions which is over kill on 2400# car

they are overkill on my 993 w/ 300+ hp and 2700#s

Good point on the deflector plates, fortunately they are readily available: https://tarett.com/collections/breaks-911

I meant stock 1981 sc brakes. I do rebuild them quite often as
they tend to carbonize the dust seals rather quickly.
Don't the spec 911 class cars run stock brakes?

Yes they do. I'd expect good fluid, ducting, and race pads make it possible.

And probably rebuilding the calipers regularly.

You don't need the dust seals on a track only car, but I do leave them on and replace them regularly.

So I know it wasn't suggested but once I started digging based on these suggestions I've decided to pick up the 993 ducts and the Tarrett rotor block-off plates. It seems like a nice medium in terms of cost with the full ducting package (also not sure if those ducts would fit without modification). I'm still on the fence about going for a more track-focused pad and would like to see how this helps before going with something that will detract from safety and comfort in daily use (I have enough of that already!).

Jeff, interesting on the OEM Porsche pads being acceptable for street/track use. Do you get any fade with them?

Not sure when I'll get back out to Grattan since all track days are heavily negotiated since baby came along, but once I do I can comment on changes.

I've never been a fan of the block off plates, seems to me you want that area open to promote air flow up through the rotor.

The 911 straight inner vanes don't flow as well as the later curved vane rotors but they do push air from the center out to the edge

one other thing for track days be sure to use as close to full thickness pads as possible, save the 1/2 or more worn sets for street use

As I understand the block-off plates are installed between the rotor and the hub to prevent the air ducted to the rotor from going through the holes between the rotor and hub, which forces the air through the vanes instead. On the stock rotors I think the vanes are only accessible from the inside of the rotor, maybe it's different with the thicker rotors?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1697646421.jpg

Red is where the block-off sits, forcing blue air to go out through the vanes.

.....


I think, guess I'll see over the winter when I put them in. It's a little annoying that nobody with them shows photos of them installed on the hub.

What is it actually doing?

here is a 911 hub w/ a 930 rotor setup, no air goes through this side
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1697653316.jpg

The backing polat eis an impediment the flow can be cleaned and enhanced w/ a 993 or better scoop
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1697653316.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1697653316.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1697653316.jpg

Here's a typical scoop setup, backing plate is removed and air directed to the center area
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1697653542.jpg

Not the full dust shield, the little deflector plate from Tarrett: https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/TE911RCDP.htm?pn=TE-911RCDP&SVSVSI=574&DID=213236

It goes between the rotor and the hub (red outline) so that air can't follow the blue path, but takes the green path out through the vanes.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1697656875.jpg

Edit: Again, that's the idea I guess. Makes sense, but do you think that would be negative in a different respect?

That's my point, there is no blue path, it's a dead end

Follow-up!

Finally got back to Grattan to feel the difference. Even better it was high 80s and humid ("better" for brake testing, it was otherwise miserable weather) so I could really stress the brakes. Overall it was much improved, while I had some brake pad fade there was no loss of pressure once the brakes were at temperature and no suggestions of boiling fluid.

I'll have to post some pictures later (I thought I had some handy but nope), but what I did in addition to the block-off plates was install the 993 ducts with some simple rubber-lined hose clamps and spacers to get them pointed the right way. Their standard shape didn't quite sit right in the airstream, though, so I channeled my inner Adrian Newey, took a heat gun to each and massaged them until the leading edges were parallel to the airstream and had gentle rotation up to the brake center (the elephant racing kit accomplishes this with different mounting points but my $5 assortment of hose clamps limited me in that regard).

Overall I'm pleasantly surprised--not once did I have to back out of it to give the brakes some cooldown time.

On the other hand one of the magnets on my speedometer ring gave up on life, but you win some you lose some I guess.

On my hubs there was definitely a blue path that the plate blocked. Otherwise stock 1982 SC hubs and rotors.

Before and after with the block-off plate. Maybe I should have held a light behind the hub, but I could sneak my fingers through between the rotors and hubs.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719414276.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719414276.jpg

Please ignore my out of round hub lips, they don't leak and that's good enough for me!

Okay a couple of pictures of the setup. I'm honestly surprised at how well the clamps hold the ducts in place, but the spacers were needed to add stability. These are just off the shelf, I think I'll need to replace with stainless or plated hardware.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719495208.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719495208.jpg

Please ignore the spring perches on the RSR struts, I forgot to take them off when I put it all together. Thankfully they don't block the brake lines or strut dust cover, so they can rest happy until I remove them in winter.