Car ate a chain ramp--collateral damage?

RallyJon · 06-09-2003, 06:21 AM

I just found out that the strange ticking noise was not out-of-adjustment valves. There are bits and pieces of timing chain ramp in the sump.

So, my options are:

1) replace the ramps, leave the tensioners alone, hope it holds together for another 5K miles.

2) do the hydraulic chain tensioner mod.

3) decide that now is the time to get a new (used) engine, instead of next winter as I was planning.

What bothers me is that the hydraulic tensioner mod is $375, plus 4-5 hours of labor. No big deal, but I'm not keen on spending any more than is absolutey necessary on the engine, since an upgrade in definitely in the future.

Question: Is the broken ramp a certain sign that the tensioner is failing, or could it happen all by itself?

Doug Zielke · 06-09-2003, 06:42 AM

The ramps get v. hard and brittle in their old age. Just replace them. Do the Carerra tensioners at the same time. Then, retime the cams as added insurance. Nice weekend project.

john walker's workshop · 06-09-2003, 06:50 AM

i took one apart two weeks ago that had a "not quite a tensioner" type of noise, and the outer ramp was off and jammed up against the case, and the upper inner one was gone, chewed into chunks. luckily, nothing was damaged. the right side chain area has it's own compartment in the engine case, so i took out the engine, put it on a stand, and turned it 90° so i could fish out the remains. new ramps all around, and it's quiet now. i've seen intermediate sprocket teeth broken off, chains broken, valves bent, etc, from ramps breaking. lucky this time.

Superman · 06-09-2003, 06:54 AM

If you want to get in and out cheaply then just replace the ramps, put collars on the existing tensioners (about $20 I think), time the cams and button her up.

RallyJon · 06-09-2003, 06:54 AM

Thanks for the reponses.

So, if everything else looks OK, it's reasonable to replace the ramps and close it back up? Again, this isn't a long term "keeper" or I would update the tensioners without hesitation.

Is there a test procedure for the spring tensioners to see if they're OK? (probably in the shop manual, but I'm at work...)

1fastredsc · 06-09-2003, 07:32 AM

Your not the first, imagine taking apart a 911 motor for the first time and after removing the chain covers you find chunks of plastic everywhere (me). They're cheap, replace them.

RallyJon · 06-13-2003, 05:47 PM

Well, the left tensioner was collapsed too, so he's doing the pressure fed tensioner upgrade.

Probably for the best. Though I don't mind paying for mods, I hate paying for repairs.

Vipergrün · 06-13-2003, 07:15 PM

Heed my words young man......DO NOT move the chain at ALL when putting in the tensioners or the ramps. And, please check the cam timing when you are done, just in case. Ugggg, I still cringe when I think about the sound my motor made when I fired her up after replacing the ramps. Numer six piston, please meet number six valve....
There, did I scare you

john walker's workshop · 06-14-2003, 07:42 AM

yeah, put the engine on Z1 for #1 cylinder before removing tensioners. the cams will stay put if you do that, as long as you do not turn them, or pull on the tight side of the chain. when swapping the outer ramps, the tight side of the chain will hang in the ramp grooves, so a tiny pocket screwdriver is slipped between chain and ramp to lift the chain just a hair, so the ramp can be popped out.