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Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 27
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Fresh Air Blower Rebuild - Resistor Switch
I'm rebuilding my fresh air blower from a 1983 SC. Upon disassembly I found one of the wires on the resistance spring assembly snapped. What do you guys recommend? Can it be fixed? Is there a replacement only part?
I've seen a guy install a digital control switch to the A/C fan assembly. Probably could retrofit a digital control for the fresh air motor but unsure at this point. Also... what are the two wire springs attached to the fan blades? I'm assuming for some type of balance but it seems odd. Finally... digging through the parts catalog I can't find replacements for the two rubber baffles inside the blower unit that regulate fresh air flow. Mine are cracked and I'm unable to completely shut fresh air off. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Following.
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Silver 1987 Porsche Targa Carrera Build thread: 87 Porsche targa! projects tracker |
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me too
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I bought these seals on 914rubber.com.
https://914rubber.com/flapper-valve-seals-in-blower-housing-1 |
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Miami
Posts: 961
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Quote:
https://griffiths.com/porsche/air-conditioning/911-930/porsche-911-930-climate-controls/ I believe the springs on the fan vanes are for balance. For the rubber baffles, there is the one source listed above or… have a mousepad somewhere you can cut up?
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1979 SC, Slant nose wide-body cab conversion. AEM Infinity EFI, COP, supercharged! |
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PCA Member since 1988
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Agree with what Dr J said. I don't like the foam rubber seals. The foam wears, compresses and deteriorates over time. Even though the original ones lasted a long time, after market foam parts tend to have about a 10-12 year life span and then they crack and fall apart.
Instead, I cut up some old inner tube into the correct shape donuts. I cut them a little oversize at first and them trimmed them to fit snugly. Works great, and I didn't have to wait for new seals to show up. Whatever rubber inner tubes are made of seems to last a very long time.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! Last edited by PeteKz; 10-29-2023 at 01:05 PM.. |
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Quote:
On the other hand, the fresh air blower is controlled by a 4 position linear lever switch that is not so easy to match to the pot of a PWM controller, whether from Griffiths or from China. You would have to replace the pot with several fix resistors and control them with the lever switch positions. A bit of work. Or you can stick to the old technology and reattach the spring resistor by whatever means. Also clean the blades underneath and make sure they are free to move and make contact when they heat. These are thermal blades made to protect the resistors by temporarily shorting them if they heat up to much. Ancient technology. ![]()
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Gilles RoW 88 Carrera coupé |
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Heck, I’m only 5 not 71!
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Quote:
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Pat Henry Targa80 1980SC Targa (Mocha Brown) |
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Miami
Posts: 961
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The way I solved this issue is unfortunately not available today. As part of my self-redesigned ac system, I purchased an evaporator fan motor from a company called retroaire which seems to be defunct. The motor had an extra tap and connected to the stock switch. The resistor pack was no longer needed and it did not use PWM tech. It energized part of the motor coil depending on the switch to provide the speed setting. To this day it works great. I hardly ever take it off the lowest setting.
Interestingly enough, my voltage regulator went out and the way I knew something was off was the fact that the evaporator fan was blowing really hard, particularly as I increased rpms.
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1979 SC, Slant nose wide-body cab conversion. AEM Infinity EFI, COP, supercharged! |
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