Golly

[targabill]

So I pulled my FlyWheel off, to change my Main Seal and this is what I found!! The seal was out about 1/4 of an inch, and came all the way off with my fingers?? And the seal spring was off and behind the seal..

So What could cause this, I assume the oil pressure.. Can/Should I use locktite on the outer edge of the seal to hold it in place?
Does anybody know the part number of a good seal? 1982 Porsche 911 SC Targa..
Thanks much,
-Bill
Also, Should you replace the pilot bearing?

[76FJ55]

more likely to be crank case pressure than oil pressure. I had my 928 backfire from a leaky diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator letting fuel pool in the intake. when I started it, it lit off the fuel in the intake. the crank case vent line to the intake allowed the pressure to move into the crank case and it blew the passenger side cam bore seal out of the head.

[proporsche]

here is your part number.99911342641 .try to avoid victor Reinz seal look for Elring...
To be quite honest it is a long time since i have seen this seal in white .....
Also i wonder if it was push in all the way on last replacement??

Ivan

[targabill]

Originally Posted by proporsche

here is your part number.99911342641 .try to avoid victor Reinz seal look for Elring...
To be quite honest it is a long time since i have seen this seal in white .....
Also i wonder if it was push in all the way on last replacement??

Ivan

Thanks for the Part #, I was trying to hone in on a few that I had..
I owned the car for about 34 years and I never replaced it.. it had about 85k on it when I bought it.. Not sure if it was ever done.??

[stownsen914]

One of the popular DIY 911 rebuild manuals advocates for putting Curil T on seals, which essentially lubes them. I'd imagine that makes it easier for a seal to push out with some crankcase pressure. I wonder if that procedure was followed on this engine.

[targabill]

Originally Posted by stownsen914

One of the popular DIY 911 rebuild manuals advocates for putting Curil T on seals, which essentially lubes them. I'd imagine that makes it easier for a seal to push out with some crankcase pressure. I wonder if that procedure was followed on this engine.

I think you would want to lube the inside edge of the seal but want to clean it of any lube on the outer side. Just wondering if it should be glued or loctite to the case..

[stownsen914]

Certainly lube the inner edge that contacts the crank. Conventional wisdom is to leave the outer surface dry. But the manual I’m referring to says to put Curil T on the outer surface, as a non-curing sealant, I’d think Curil T could act as a lubricant and allow the sealant to walk outward due to crankcase pressure. Was wondering if yours may have been installed that way.

[ant7]

From memory, I have never put lube of any kind on the outer of the seal, I use a drift slightly smaller than the seal diameter to make sure the seal goes in evenly, and always lube the inner of the seal where it mates with the crank, for obvious reasons.
Ant.

Originally Posted by stownsen914

Certainly lube the inner edge that contacts the crank. Conventional wisdom is to leave the outer surface dry. But the manual I’m referring to says to put Curil T on the outer surface, as a non-curing sealant, I’d think Curil T could act as a lubricant and allow the sealant to walk outward due to crankcase pressure. Was wondering if yours may have been installed that way.

[tobluforu]

I'm no engine builder, but I put good ol curil and elrings in two motors with zero issue. To each their own. Just make sure you de-burr. Then check to see if there is a groove from another seal from years gone by making sure not to install seal in that same groove. If you have a heat gun, heat that area up some, freeze the heck out of the seal and it should slide right in.

[Rodsrsr]

I would never put anything on the outside of a seal. Definitely lube the inside or it will burn out and leak after a few minutes, but the outside should be bone dry.