Agreed, I've timed cams with the engine in the car several times. I've had occasion to repair oil leaks originating with the thrust plate gaskets, the triangle shaped ones, and have had no trouble accessing everything to re-time the cams in the car.

I think assuming there is something mechanically "wrong" internally with the engine itself is too big of a jump right now. You say it revs freely with the timing significantly advanced - it wouldn't do that if there were something mechanically amiss inside the motor.

So, keep looking. You never said if there is a CD box involved. If there is, it might bear looking into. Go through the ignition wiring again, fuel lines, all of it. I know it's frustrating.

Maybe a stupid question, but if there is no CDI box, and Helidoc is running Pertronix, is there a ballast resister that needs to be bypassed? So full +12V is supplied to the Pertronix?

The Pertronix system is the most unreliable system I have ever seen . I always throw them in the trash. I used to send them back so they could do some diagnostics for cause of death. Nope , they have no interest in the info. They expect the unit to last from 400 to 4000 miles and outlasting the 30 day warranty. It was part of the Biz plan to make MONEY.
Stick with points and CDI or go with 123 ignition

Just my thoughts and experience

Ian

I went through the timing process again after adjusting all the valves with the Stomski device. Everything is within spec on the low end for the valve overlap. One side was 3.07 and the the other 3.02 with the intake valve opening with 1 mm lift at 20 degrees BTDC. The specs are for 3.0 - 3.3 with desired 3.15 mm and the cam matches the duration for this engine. To get to the 3.15 mm figure would only amount to 1 degree on the crankshaft pulley which translates into around a 2 degree range. I pulled out the distributor and removed the Petronix and got another coil checking the ballast resistor as well. Would have tried to test this set up but they sent the wrong points and with the slight leak from the exhaust valve covers decided to order some Turbo ones. When I get the correct parts I will try again after setting up the distributor on the Sun tester. Probably will post something after Thanksgiving which I hope all following will enjoy as well.

When you are checking valve lift at over lap you do have the valve clearance set to .1mm,,,,correct.?

Yes, .1mm. Bought the Stomski tool to get it as exact as I could.

Since my last post I replaced the Flamethrower coil (3 ohm) with the stock (1.5 ohm) coil and took out the Pertronix system and put in stock points and condenser. I went back to stock spark plugs instead of the platinum ones I had previously used. I static timed at TDC. I set the Weber mixture screws to 2 turns out. On initial start up there was an erratic idle, light popping, and some light white puffs of smoke for a couple of minutes as the engine warmed up and fiddling with the idle screws. After several minutes things seemed to smooth out with the idle around 800 RPM and the timing light indicating a little after TDC so I turned the distributor counterclockwise to about 5 degrees BTDC which brought the RPM up to around 1200, still with some light popping in the exhaust but no backfires. I then decided it was time to see if the engine would rev, and to my delight it went happily to the 6000 mark. I played with the idle a little more slowing it down to 900 and then played with the timing by reving the motor until it would reach the 30 degree timing mark at 6000. Ironically when done the timing was at TDC at 900 RPM. After all this I tuned the carburetors and got a smooth idle with no popping. Hopefully it will translate to good driving characteristics but it will still be a few months before I will get it on the road.

So what do I think in retrospect was the problem? I think it was the coil. This car has a ballast resistor so I do not think the 3 ohm coil, which had been recommended by Pertronix, gave a hot enough spark. Spark plugs may have played some roll but I think very little. I don't think the Pertronic pick up unit had much to do with it as I mapped out the distributor curve with it and with points and they don't deviate much. I have attached a picture from a graph I made including the factory limits, with Pertronix and with points for interest sake. Hopefully if someone else has the same problem I did they will benefit if their internet search finds my journey here. Thanks for everyone's input. By the way this is for the Bosch 0 231 169 001 distributor. I also wanted to make a correction for the dwell in my graph. It is not 21 degrees but 38 degrees. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1701187271.png
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1701187271.png

I agree, you do not use the resistor with the 3 ohm coil, you now have too much resistance. The modern Bosch platinum spark plugs are not good with early rich running engines. Glad you figured ir out.

It's always nice to move past a problem, but never fun while dealing with it.

I've had a good Pertronix in my car for many years, but it took a while to find a good one. I still recommend them, but nothing wrong with the original points.

I'm not a fan of the Platinum spark plugs, but it sounds like you found a combination of points, plugs, and a coil that works for you.