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Window guide (felt) and slot seal replacement coupe
Well, I just finished my project in time for the San Diego auto museum cars and coffee event. I took lot's of pictures and hope that this thread will help someone as much as I have been helped by all of your threads. First off I had some really messed up window guides, the were loud at speed and actually blew my military cut hair around. I ordered the parts from our host and started to take apart the passenger side door and discovered I needed slot seals as well, ordered those and the next day..Thanks John! they arrived.
First I removed the + battery cable ( window and mirror switches). ![]() I got the tools ready. removed all the plastic caps. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() then remove the phillips head screws on the door panel top cover. ![]()
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remove the mirror wire harness by gently pulling the plug from the switch.
![]() Remove the six phillips screws from the map pocket. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The cover / arm rest has three phillips screws. ![]() ![]() Next up was the internal door lock knob, gently pry the cover off with an old credit card or something like it to avoid damaging it, then remove the phillips screw underneath along with the trim and knob. ![]() Next remove the trim holder from the map pocket in the front of the door panel . ![]() Then remove the speaker, this is variable and depends on the speaker and installer, my cover just pulled off and the speaker was secured with three phillips screws. Remove the window switches by gently pulling them from the door panel,
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I did not mark my wires because I verified them with the Bentley manual and with posts on our host's site YMMV.
![]() ![]() Remove the door latch rod from the handle by pushing up on it. ![]() Then remove the door handle, it is secured with four allen bolts ( I think they are 5mm ( sorry for not documenting that but a Craftsman metric set will have it)). ![]() ![]() Next will be removing the door panel and window frame.
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My back really hurts so I am going to bed. I will complete this tomorrow, sorry for the inconvenience. 101 projects and the Bentley are extremely helpful..
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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You shouldn't have to remove the window frame (it looks like you're preparing to do that)...all those seals can be done with the frame in place once the panel is off. There are a few threads on this. Put the window down and pull the seal out. Use copious hand soap on the rails and new seal and work it down the groove on both sides. Once down a few inches below the level of the door raise the window and grab the bottom of the seal with a needle nose plier and pull it all the way down the lubed groove in the frame with the window in place. Test fit it at the top and glue it (if you want) with black 3M trim adhesive. Removing the window frame is a pain unless you need to do it for some reason. While you're there do the slot seal, inner seal, and outer "squegee" seal.
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Peoples Republic of Long Beach, NY
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nice write up w/pics
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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door panel
After all the stuff is removed from the outside of the door panel, it is easily removed by gently pulling the three plastic trim pieces behind the door panel. there are two in the front and one in the rear.
![]() ![]() under the door panel you will see a moisture barrier (plastic sheet) if your car does not have one you can make one out of regular painters plastic.Next to come off is the window frame itself. There are seven allen bolts that hold the frame on, there are five at the top of the door ( two in front, two in back and one in the middle). ![]() ![]() ![]() and there are two at the bottom of the door. I removed the window frame so I could perform all the maintenance inside the door at once. As M110 stated you don't have to remove the frame if you are creative, but Also had lock maintenance to do and my windows were like turtles going up and down. Now they are like bunnies! The two bolts at the bottom. ![]() ![]() the forward bottom bolt is holding a bracket that will prevent the window frame from being removed, I think the easiest way to remove it is an allen socket. ![]() Next is the metal trim piece on the outside of the door, use a plastic spatula or a high interest rate credit card to pull the piece straight up, make sure you pull it up evenly to avoid bending it. ![]()
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AirBorne!
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 1,195
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Wow, great documentation here on how to do what you did. I just recommended this to the Pelican Wiki
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2008 997 C4S Silver, Kitty Cat, 1989 3.4 911 Silver Carrera, Erica, 1989 944S2 NASA GTS2, Iris, 1988 944 DE Car, Backdate 1975S to 1970s w 3.0 PMO - Roxanne, 1967 911 normal w 2.2s engine w S goodies, 89 VW Cabriolet - 2.0 conversion - sold and missed |
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gently and evenly pull the frame up being very careful to not stress the window or the frame. As it gets to the top pay close attention to the rear of the frame, there is a plate on it that needs to clear the door or it may damage the sheet metal ( ask me how I know).
![]() ![]() take the frame to a safe place for surgery. ![]() the old seal can be removed by pulling it out of the groove it is in. ![]() Clean out the groove, I used acetone on a rag. Install the new seal. You can do it "dry" or use adhesive, I used a drop of adhesive in the top corners and at the very bottom of the new seal. It installs pretty easily by pinching it and cramming it into the groove. MAKE SURE THE TOP CORNERS MATE WELL WITH NO GAPS OR BUNCHING! ![]() ![]() ![]() while the adhesive is drying go back and clean the door up and replace the slot seal. I used a wooden wedge to remove the slot seal, it has about five little button clips that have to be gently pried from their holes. You could use your bondo spatula or anything that won't damage your car. ![]()
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After the slot seal is removed I did some cleaning on the upper door, There is some vinyl tape that is under the trim piece that may be damaged, I replaced mine with some 3m electrical tape and some RTV.
![]() ![]() After cleaning the door I removed and reinstalled the lock / latch mechanism for cleaning and maintenance.then I used some time to clean and lubricate the power window tracks following the 101 projects book and the Bentley. ![]() Install the new slot seal, make sure you have the correct side. then reassemble the window frame to the door put the door panel and fixins back on, reconnect the battery and test everything out. I used the diagram in the Bently manual but you could use the excellent schematic from MYSTERYTRAIN if you don't have the manual. Before... ![]() ![]() During.. ![]() ![]() After.. ![]() and the old nasty slot seals. ![]() ![]() Now my car is wind noise quiet at normal freeway speeds and the windows go up and down quickly the door locks are not sticky anymore!
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Designer King
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Toronto, ON Canada
Posts: 5,499
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Excellent! Thanks for that.
BTW 2 things: 1. Nice interior color (cork) and 2. Did you do any rearranging of the paralellogram arms @ the bottom of the window? Some previous posts showed realinging these to get a smoother operation.
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Paul Yellow 77 Sunroof Coupe/cork interior; 3.2L SS '80 engine/10.3:1/No O2; Carrera Tensioners; 11 Blade Fan; Turbo tie rods; Bilstein B6; 28 tube Cooler; SSI, Dansk; MSD/Blaster; 16x7" Fuchs/205/50 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s; PCA/UCR, MID9 Never leave well enough alone Last edited by Paulporsche; 02-16-2009 at 08:25 AM.. |
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I just cleaned the tracks the pivot points and lubricated them. I was not aware of being able to rearrange the arms.
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Designer King
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Toronto, ON Canada
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If it ain't broke...
I think I'll be doing this this spring. I'm sure your writeup will be very helpful to a lot of us.
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Paul Yellow 77 Sunroof Coupe/cork interior; 3.2L SS '80 engine/10.3:1/No O2; Carrera Tensioners; 11 Blade Fan; Turbo tie rods; Bilstein B6; 28 tube Cooler; SSI, Dansk; MSD/Blaster; 16x7" Fuchs/205/50 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s; PCA/UCR, MID9 Never leave well enough alone |
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Capistrano Beach, Ca.
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Great write up, Crusty, and the photos were excellent. This is a job I will face soon so I'm archiving this thread. Thanks!
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,558
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you know, the felt channel can be done in about 5 minutes with a screwdriver and some silicone spray, just by moving the window up and down a few times.
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Designer King
Join Date: Mar 2004
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Quote:
Would this be done w/ the door panel in place? W/ the window down will the channel fit in and the window then slide into it when it is raised? Or do you fit the channel to the window and then raise everything into place?
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Paul Yellow 77 Sunroof Coupe/cork interior; 3.2L SS '80 engine/10.3:1/No O2; Carrera Tensioners; 11 Blade Fan; Turbo tie rods; Bilstein B6; 28 tube Cooler; SSI, Dansk; MSD/Blaster; 16x7" Fuchs/205/50 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s; PCA/UCR, MID9 Never leave well enough alone |
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I think he meant door panel on. M110 said panel off. I believe it could be done either way.
I took mine window frame out because I wanted to do maintenance on the latch plate, it can't be removed without removing the window frame. I also had other things to do in the door.
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Hi, what's the part number of the slot seal? it's on the picture next to the channel trim (part number 911 542 905 00)
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Quote:
![]() I assume you mean #10 in the pic? There is a left and a right, and it depends on if you have a coupe or Targa/cabrio. For coupe: 91153193102 - Left 91153193202 - Right I'd strongly suggest downloading the PET for your year. That way you can see all the part numbers and images.
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i had never heard of the PET - I googled and downloaded it online: Porsche PET Diagrams
i've been broswing the 400 page pdf for the past hour or so, you opened my eyes to a new world! lol! thank you! |
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