3.0L in 1970 with 911 transmission. Parts needed?

[BobNorman]

Just wondering if anyone knows if a 1978 3.0SC motor will mate directly with my 911 transmission in my 1970 E?

Or, do I need a different clutch, flywheel, and/or throw out bearing?

Thanks
Bob

[dannobee]

the SC engine will have a 9 bolt flywheel/crankshaft. Your old one will be 6 bolt.

[john walker's workshop]

If you use a 70/71 clutch kit. The 70/71 oil cooler has a small thread on hose and the 3.0 uses a large slip on hose, so either use a 70/71 cooler or swap to a later oil tank so you can use the larger lines.

[BobNorman]

Thanks. I have the oil tank and hoses from the 3.0 so I’ll be using that, though I realize this means modifying the body a little.

I was more thinking about what I would need now to get the engine fitted into the car. Looks like a 70/71 clutch and pressure plate I guess? There is a bearing on the 3.0 pressure plate now, and also a bearing on the arm in the transmission, so I’m assuming one of those has to go. Would the 2.2 pressure plate bolt directly into the 3.0 flywheel?

Also, the transmission is in the car now, no engine, no rear bumper. The motor I have does not have a muffler installed. Would it be easier to just install the engine? Or should I take out the transmission and mate them together and then install the regular way? It all has to come out again, but for now I want to get it all together and be able to check compression and maybe even get it running.

[john walker's workshop]

Same basic flywheel, so the early70/71 pressure plate will bolt up, with the early small spline disc. Use the 70/71 t/o bearing. Easier to attach the trans out of the car because you have to pull back the fork and rotate the t/o bearing so the ears are over the fork. The t/o bearing should not be still on the release fork, it's attached to the p/plate on the 70/71. ???

[BobNorman]

Thanks. Seems the 70/71 PP and TO bearing are in short supply and expensive! I don’t have the 2.2 motor that came with the car.

Yes the bearing is still attached to the fork. Looks like someone may have yanked it out. Any idea how to get it off? It looks rough, but still spins nicely, so, if i can re-use it I will, at least for now. Though, it looks like I'm missing a few bits to attach it to the PP.

[john walker's workshop]

Just rotate it a bit and slip it off the guide tube. Looks broken, where it would go through the clutch diaphram.

[BobNorman]

Thanks for that. Just removed the bearing and cleaned it up a little, mostly dirty.

Spins nicely, seems straight, and I think it’s all there, but I’m not sure. There’s no exploded view in the parts book.

Does this look right?

[john walker's workshop]

All there. Shim first, then cupped spring ring, cup facing outward, set the pressure plate on it, thick ring next and then the snap ring.