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65-68 A Arms VS. 69-newer?
Im in the middle of replacing all my suspension bushings/cleaning up components. Im going to be doing a Boxter brake upgrade on my car which was originally a 68 SWB and has been converted to long at some point. The brake spacing on y struts currently are 3" but there is already an aluminum adapter for newer SC brakes.
Do they make 3.5" struts for the 68, can newer struts be put on? What would the advantages be of converting the 68 front end to a newer style with aluminum crossmember? Any info would be greatly appreciated as I'm trying to decide now if I should buy newer stuff or just fix up what I have. Thanks! |
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01-11-2024, 05:47 AM
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PCA Member since 1988
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It depends on what you want to do with the car. If you plan to keep it as a street-driven car, and you don't want to spend several thousand dollars, keep it stock. Refresh the rubber bushings and shock inserts, etc. If you go down the path of Boxster brakes, later struts with 3.5" brake caliper spacing, etc., you will spend thousands getting there, which I think is pointless for an early light car driven on the street.
If you want a track car, then go for it.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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01-11-2024, 02:50 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 1,181
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The aluminum front crossmember is an independent change of the A-Arms. It’s just lighter.
The A-arms are the same ‘69-‘89 with the exception of the swaybar mount. Up through ‘73 was a U tab for the through body sway bar ‘74+ is a D mount for the underbody swaybar. Easy enough to convert if needed and you know someone that can weld. SWB control arms can be identified by the bolt on ball joint with 2 bolts to the A-arm as opposed to the ball joint itself being threaded with a castle nut for the later style. The LWB struts come in 3 main flavors. 3in vs 3.5in brake mounting and wedge pin vs pinch pin ball joints. Pinch pin was ‘69-‘72 and can be identified by a split in the bottom of the strut where the ball joint goes in. For a street car, there’s no real benefit to the later stuff as long as the brake bias is good. S or M front calipers with SWB rear calipers is not a good combination. For a performance build, 3.5in struts open up a lot more brake options and Bilstein struts which are generally considered the better option are all 3.5in. |
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01-11-2024, 03:32 PM
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