Adjustable spring plates: yey or ney?

[donbecker1234]

New to 911 suspensions, my rear spring plate bushings are shot and would like to hear others' experience on whether I should change to some of the aftermarket adjustable spring plates. I'm planning on going with the Rebel rear bushings.

I have an 87 930 with the stock factory adjustable spring plates.

If it helps, I'm only planning on changing the spring plate bushings at this time, so all other parts (shocks, other bushings, torsion bars) would be unchanged.

I don't anticipate being picky about the ride height until I change those other parts, although currently my rear end is riding low and with the lowered friction in the rear bushings I'd probably raise the rear a bit higher to avoid tire touching fender.

[Cory M]

If you have the correct wrench (sold by pelican and others) changing ride height with the stock adjustable plates isn't a big deal.

[jpnovak]

stock adjustable spring plates work just fine. No need to replace.

[Tremelune]

Strong yay. Adjustable spring plates are a one-time cost that will pay you back every time suspension changes are made for the life of the car. You can also recoup some cost by selling the factory plates.

They save hassle for fine-tuning ride height, and some shops will give you a discount on suspension changes if you have them. It's much nicer to turn a screw than reindex a torsion bar.

If I recall correctly, the Elephant plates give you a good 1.5" of range. You only need to get the torsion bars close.

[Snitzler]

Originally Posted by Cory M

If you have the correct wrench (sold by pelican and others) changing ride height with the stock adjustable plates isn't a big deal.

What wrench, could you give a part number or something. Sounds interesting.

[jjeffries]

Corey and JP both know what they’re talking about. But.... when I did my SC’s suspension I modified my spring plates for fun/ hot-rod spirit, I suppose. I did receive help from my son’s BF who has access to a machine shop. I copied the concept from a post by CGARR (who happened to do the head work when I rebuilt my car’s engine)

You can buy more pro versions from Rebel, Rennline or Elephant. When I did my alignment and corner balance, this design made it easier, and provided a slightly wider arc of adjustment than with the stock adjuster, but it could have been done without this mod.

Need? No. Kinda cool? For me, yes.









Best, John

[Cory M]

Originally Posted by Snitzler

What wrench, could you give a part number or something. Sounds interesting.

This one, it's thin to fit between the plate and body:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/PWE2436RHW.htm?pn=PWE-2436RHW&bt=Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=819

If you are going to change heights frequently the aftermarket plates will be easier, but for most people it's a "set it and forget it" kind of thing.

[Tremelune]

Originally Posted by Cory M

If you are going to change heights frequently the aftermarket plates will be easier, but for most people it's a "set it and forget it" kind of thing.

...If you get it right the first time. Otherwise, you're gonna jack the car up again, put it on stands, unbolt the covers, yank the spring plate (hoping the bushings stay on), pull the bar, reindex, install the cover (each bolt a little at a time), remove the stands, lower the car, rock it to level the suspension, measure...

I'm being dramatic, but I believe firmly that they're worth it for every car and every driver the first time they come off. Even with corner weights and angle measurements, it's not a guaranteed one-and-done.

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by Tremelune

...If you get it right the first time. Otherwise, you're gonna jack the car up again, put it on stands, unbolt the covers, yank the spring plate (hoping the bushings stay on), pull the bar, reindex, install the cover (each bolt a little at a time), remove the stands, lower the car, rock it to level the suspension, measure...

I'm being dramatic, but I believe firmly that they're worth it for every car and every driver the first time they come off. Even with corner weights and angle measurements, it's not a guaranteed one-and-done.

Yes. Very much agree.

[donbecker1234]

Does anyone have opinions on which adjustable spring plates to get (or avoid)?

I've seen some strange threads where people are cutting the sway-away adjustables, and it's odd to me that the same part number is listed as working on turbo/widebody and non-turbo cars when all the other adjustables are body specific.

Elephant: https://www.elephantracing.com/porsche/911/spring-plates-for-911/quickchange-spring-plate-kit/

Long wheelbase: $490

Splined hubs (uses stock plate): $425

Hardware Kit: 98

Rebel: https://www.rsrproducts.com/product-page/rebel-s-racing-adjustable-spring-plate

Long wheelbase: $470


Pelican:

Sway-a-way: $419
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/SAW5505.htm?pn=SAW-5505&bt=Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=817

Rennline: $495
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/RENS08022.htm?pn=REN-S-08022&bt=Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=817

Weltmeister: $494 (***********): http://www.***********.com/Porsche-Weltmeister-Adjustable-Spring-Plates-Parts-PN-RP910160.html

[kamaro]

I'm using Sway-Away in my '77. They fit great and I had no issues at all, the only trick that really helped me a lot is to boil the eurethane bushings in hot water JUST before installing them, that made them so pliable and so easy to insert.

As far as the adjustability, I absolutely love them!, I can corner-balance the car in minutes instead of hours or even days.

Originally Posted by donbecker1234

Does anyone have opinions on which adjustable spring plates to get (or avoid)?

I've seen some strange threads where people are cutting the sway-away adjustables, and it's odd to me that the same part number is listed as working on turbo/widebody and non-turbo cars when all the other adjustables are body specific.

Elephant: https://www.elephantracing.com/porsche/911/spring-plates-for-911/quickchange-spring-plate-kit/

Long wheelbase: $490

Splined hubs (uses stock plate): $425

Hardware Kit: 98

Rebel: https://www.rsrproducts.com/product-page/rebel-s-racing-adjustable-spring-plate

Long wheelbase: $470


Pelican:

Sway-a-way: $419
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/SAW5505.htm?pn=SAW-5505&bt=Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=817

Rennline: $495
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/RENS08022.htm?pn=REN-S-08022&bt=Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=817

Weltmeister: $494 (***********): http://www.***********.com/Porsche-Weltmeister-Adjustable-Spring-Plates-Parts-PN-RP910160.html

[BK911]

Not sure why all that work is needed to adjust the factory adjustable t bars. If you mean non adj vrs adj, I agree completely. But factory adj vrs aftermarket? Not worth it imo.

Originally Posted by Tremelune

...If you get it right the first time. Otherwise, you're gonna jack the car up again, put it on stands, unbolt the covers, yank the spring plate (hoping the bushings stay on), pull the bar, reindex, install the cover (each bolt a little at a time), remove the stands, lower the car, rock it to level the suspension, measure...

I'm being dramatic, but I believe firmly that they're worth it for every car and every driver the first time they come off. Even with corner weights and angle measurements, it's not a guaranteed one-and-done.

[donbecker1234]

Originally Posted by BK911

Not sure why all that work is needed to adjust the factory adjustable t bars. If you mean non adj vrs adj, I agree completely. But factory adj vrs aftermarket? Not worth it imo.

The premise as I understand it is that the aftermarket have a separate adjustment that can be done much easier by turning a screw than by dealing with the stock factory adjustment. Are you trying to say it isn't that hard to adjust the factory adjustable plates?

[BK911]

Yes that is what I and others have said.

[Marwil]

I used the Rennline ones and am happy. The Elephant stuff is well done to be sure, I just didn't have the coin to go that route (we Canucks need to add at least 30 % with the exchange, exorbitant brokerage fees, shipping, etc.). They went in well and readily allowed for fine-tuning of the ride height, the Rennline's also have a beefy solid bolt to lock them together. To be fair the Rennlines are produced by Prekom out of Europe.

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by BK911

Not sure why all that work is needed to adjust the factory adjustable t bars. If you mean non adj vrs adj, I agree completely. But factory adj vrs aftermarket? Not worth it imo.

Pre-84 911s (please confirm) must be height adjusted by re-indexing.

Maybe two reasons for adjustable spring plates:

1. Factory adjustable springs plates may be factory-installed close to the limit of the adjustment range. As anecdotally reported by many owners, many torsion bars are factory installed to favor increasing rather than decreasing the adjustment. However, once re-indexed in the desired range, adjustment is possible.

2. Aftermarket spring plates allow easier fine tuning of the ride height within the range of the adjustment mechanism. Thus, easier adjustments for corner balancing. In addition, aftermarket adj. spring plates may have a larger height adjustment range.

In any case, as reported by donbecker1234 and others, re-indexing the torsion bar is typically a first step in setting the desired ride height with a midrange setting position for fine tuning.

YMMV. Could be a wash for some and a necessity for others.
Sherwood

[jpnovak]

mid-76 the factory changed to adjustable spring plates. Your indicted 87 930 is included in this list.

These have two sections that are connected with a cam bolt and a locking bolt. To adjust height you will loosen the jam nuts on both locking and cam bolts, use the thin wrench referenced above to turn the cam bolt, watch the angle of the spring plate change. Set to desired angle and then lock it all down.

The only difference in the aftermarket is the effective operation of the "cam action". Some have a cam bolt, some have an acme screw and fixed block, etc. The process of adjusting is basically the same.

I would save the $500 and put it somewhere else in the car.

In regards to how much adjustability you actually need... You will not be changing ride height often. Before you take apart the suspension you measure the angle at full droop using an angle finder. Then you match spline angle +/-1 deg when you put it back together with new bushings. This requires indexing the torsion bar splines a few times before you bolt everything up. At this point the spring plates are centered with respect to cam position. Easy to get it right the first time. The adjusters are technically for setting corner balance, not for gross adjustments in ride height.

Now, if you want to raise or lower the car, There are some online spring plate angle calculators that tell you relative change in ride height vs spring plate angle. So, you adjust the base angle accordingly and still get it right the first time.

My $0.02. FYI, I typically do several full suspension setups a year including alignment and corner balance for local group members. There are plenty of tried and true setups for these cars. Yes, setup makes a difference. proper alignment and corner balance without being too low is the best driving experience.

[VFR750]

If you have the scales needed to do your own corner balance, the adjustable spring plates are really nice.

You can adjust all four corner weights with the wheels on the ground. Much faster than the eccentric bolts.

[Tremelune]

Originally Posted by jpnovak

Easy to get it right the first time.

I think this is probably the disjoint in our positions. Due to my own incompetence, I find the extra 1" of range over the factory adjustables to be well worth it.

The cheapest set of used factory spring plates currently on eBay are going for $300.

[donbecker1234]

Any opinions on the Elephant Splined hubs?

https://www.elephantracing.com/porsche/911/spring-plates-for-911/quickchange-spring-plate-hubs-for-911/

They're $420, so about $50 cheaper, you just reuse the other plate off the factory stock adjustable.