Try the gas grill if you have someone opposed to use of the oven . . .

It also gets hotter faster so be careful . . . now where did I put my welding gloves

Glad the hammer thing worked . . . two of my favorite tools ;)

This thread is sure going to help me out next weekend. I purchased a new set of crossed drilled rotors, pads and a caliper rebuild kit. Think I'll go straight to Marcs hammer tip. And man....those wheel wells look great!

Mike
83SC Coupe

Well, I will try the BBQ trick - I'll also plan to download the pics on Thom's site - even without captions it should be helpful to make my way through it. Somewhere I have an exploded view of the hubs and bearings.

Here are a few pictures of the hub sans dust cap and one of a clean hub...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/jwd-brake3.jpg

and a clean spindle!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/jwd-brake4.jpg

I didn't know they had Shiner in FL...

Is that some wear I see on the spindle? ;)

I think just the angle - they both looked very clean. Shiner in FL - you bet - though I went to school in Texas. That got me started

yep..

I grew up figuring things out with an open mind.. "if it don't fit use a bigger hammer".. I always have a 3# baby slege within easy reach................Ron

I did the same job on all four corners a few weeks ago and had a bear of a time getting the grease caps off. I even tried two vice grips and a 5# slide hammer to no avail. Ended up heating it with an oxy-acetyling torch and it came right off. As far as the bearing races, I just tapped them out. Porsche provides two notches 180 degrees apart to get a flat end punch into. Use a bearing packer to grease the bearings or you will not get enough grease into the bearing inners. I also had to fabricate new steel lines from the caliper to the flex line. Used an ISO flaring tool and an Imperial Mini tubing bender to make the tight curves, about as small as a nickle. Had to bleed the system 4 times to get all the air out too. Saved a ton of money in the process, about $450 VS 3200 at the dealer.

Thanks toolman - Now I don't feel like a wuss cause I couldn't get the dust caps off. I tried the vice grips too.

Here's an update - the rotors that I have don't fit :( I'm pissed! They are too deep. They are part # 930 351 047 02 - which after I looked them up - Pelican has them listed as turbo brakes for 149.00 each. I guess that's the downfall of ordering from a source that is untried (no, I did not get them from Pelican... Damn

Ok - here's an update. Rotors on - they 2nd day air them - bled with the speed bleaders - got them real hard after only a few rounds of pumps. A little bling bling - but what the hell, I have a cab!

Here's some pictures

Before and after
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...fore_after.jpg

Here's the rotor and my fake big reds...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa..._jwd_after.jpg

Looks nice behind the fuchs...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...jwd_after2.jpg

Very nice finish !!!

Did you get a free bowl of soup with that jack ?

? you don't like my jack?

When we work as hard as we do to own a Porshce, I wouldn't trust it's safety to a jack fit for the tractor lawnmower. I'm a bit sensitive to "inexpensive" tools as I am in the tool business and see plenty of damage due to the failure of these type of tools. Please take no offense. BTW nice job on the brakes, how did you put the Porsche logo on the caliper?

Jeremy are those the stock calipers? They look just like mine but yours appear bigger in the picture.

No offense - The jack is a Sears special rated to 2 1/2 tons - I know it's not the cat's meow - but it is better than the bottle jack that I used on my last Porsche and hopefully a step up from Harbor Fright. With Sears at least I know if I break it they will give me another one - and If it's faulty I can sue them and end up with the Sears tower :)

Yes, the Calipers are stock - The PORSCHE is a decal - Interesting to see how well it lasts - again though no real intention of tracking my Cabriolet - so should be OK - more bling - less zing!

Just a note, not a hose clamp, an exhaust clamp. Something like this,

http://www.jcwhitney.com/images/imagecache/I6164.gif

But the cheap version that costs a dollar at the local autoparts store.

yep.. looks like a better idea than a 5# slege

when you tighten the spindle nut do it as the manual says, but dont seat the grease caps all the way. put the tires back on and spin to see that the spindle nut is not to tight, grab the top of the wheel and shake it toward and away to see things are not too loose. drive it 50 or so miles, recheck play while down then jack up. the spindle nut has not moved by things may have settles in and it may need a bit more torquin'. then and only then do you reset the grease cap all snug like.

another good play is to wrap the grease cap in duct tape before removal, that way your channel locks wont mess up the cap and look monkey garage like.

Hi Jeremy,

I’m doing the front disks and I haven’t even got the calipers off yet!

According to Wayne’s book you undo a clip that holds the hard brake line then undo the caliper and move it to one side so you can remove the disk. Buggered if I can see the clip. Has anyone done this? To me it looks like you have to disconnect the brake line… which I guess means draining all the brake fluid?

Regards,
Andrew.