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banjomike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Bay Area, CA
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Oil cooler install need advise / support

This weekend I'll be installing my oil cooler. I will sleep better this week if I know the name of a good Modesto area wrench that can bail me out if I f#*% up.

I believe I am mostly prepared. I'm ready for an oil change, I've got the 36mm oil line wrench on the way, in addition to all the various clamps. I sanded and repainted the lines and the loop cooler last weekend. I'm going to me father in-law's house (he has a shop to die for), and he has the jack and stands and all that other support stuff that I lack. I'll be putting penetrating oil on the fittings every night from here on. I've done a bunch of research, and have printed out pages from this site and others.

Any suggestions? What am I missing?

Thanx!!

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Last edited by banjomike; 06-17-2003 at 09:01 AM..
Old 06-16-2003, 05:26 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2002
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Mike,

Installed my cooler 2 weeks ago. Used a large crescent wrench, pipe wrench and 2#hammer for smacking the end of the wrench to break loose the trombone fittings.
If you use heat on the fittings, watch out for the fender paint as it gets quite warm.
If you have the store bought fittings disregard everything below. If not read on.

Once the trombone is out, you'll have to test fit the cooler. I used some 1/8" x 3/4" mild steel stock (Ace Hdwe) to make an L shape bracket for the top &bottom of the cooler. The top piece is fastened to the headlight bucket with a 90 degree bend to receive the the top mount bolt. Make this first as it will support the cooler while you test fit the bottom bracket. Make your holes oversize. For the bottom drill the two mounting holes first and then bend the piece so it parallels the side of the cooler. Take the bracket off and place in vise and bend/beat the long piece back about 45 degrees or so. Hopefully it will be close to the the trombone mounting hole in the fenderwell. When you get it to lay over the hole, mark it, remove and drill it.I tried to fit some split hose around the cooler but there wasn't enough space to allow it.
Good luck, be patient and take a break when its a pita.

Vince
Old 06-16-2003, 09:27 PM
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Mike,

Can't help with a back up mechanic, but maybe some willing pelicanite could lend a hand or advice that's BTDT. I'll be doing the same to my car in the next couple of weeks so keep us posted on how it all went.
Are you using the old style trombone cooler or a new carrera cooler?
Mine has never had an external cooler before and it sounds like yours hasn't either.....

Rick
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Old 06-17-2003, 03:22 AM
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I'm a bit confused

Silver,

I am installing a trombone. The cost of all the parts needed just to get the lines in has decimated my budget. I got the trombone tossed in with the lines for practically nothing. Next year I'll swap the loop out for a proper carrera cooler with a fan etc. I will be taking hundreds of pictures (with the office's new dig cam), and will be happy to share my results.

Vinny,
As the Haynes manual is fond of saying "installation is the reverse of removal." So I'll just read your helpful hints backwards ;-) Actually it'll be the connection on the oil tank, and on the other end of that oil line that I'll have to disconnect. There is no reason to belive that they have been apart since 1989 when the engine was installed.

Anyone who can help,

Last night while soaking the connections with penetrating oil I observed that the oil line configuration was not like what I've seen in photos. So I've been trying to figure this out.

I see a big heavy rubber hose that is attached, using hoseclamps, on one end to the internal oil cooler, and on the other end to the back port on the oil tank. I also see a line with the 36mm screw on fittings running from the front port of the oil tank to another line which runs between the engine and the muffler. Let me show you:




I was expecting to see this instead:


but I have these:


will it all work?
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Old 06-17-2003, 09:00 AM
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You'll need the cross over pipe that runs under the trans from the scavenger pump. Check with Pelican Parts here, or Chuck Moreland.

I can't figure why the factory went to the pipe that you (and I) have instead of keeping with the 74 and back lines like in your last "in car" picture. Maybe it was a heat thing. Or does it interfere with the later exhaust headers. I'm afraid to find out!
Old 06-17-2003, 10:06 AM
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all I can say is the Mocal cooler install was pretty simple...and I am no mechanic! Best advice is have someone help...nothing better than a second set of eyes and hands on a project if you are not sure how things are going to go...and if you find them to not be of any assistance they can at least make runs to the fridge to get you a nice cold one when needed!
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Old 06-17-2003, 10:50 AM
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Look at all of this Gruppe B solidarity!

Thanks, I'm just gonna get on my back and string those lines in there tonight and see how it all fits. Then I'll decide if I'm hosed. (so to speak)

And when I'm done with that I'll tip a cold one for all you helpfull Gruppe Be-ers.
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'76 911S 3.0 RIP
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Old 06-17-2003, 12:20 PM
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Good luck No. 168!
Old 06-17-2003, 12:25 PM
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Mike-
I live in Modesto. If you still need a mechanic send me a pm and I will give you his number. I will be racing this weekend at Willow Spring so I wont be around. Otherwise, I could of helped.
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Old 06-17-2003, 12:49 PM
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Chad....that 69 sounds like it should be a Gruppe B!
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Old 06-17-2003, 06:45 PM
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Its a fun car. I will be down at Willow Springs this weekend. VARA is running with some of the POC guys in a 2 hour enduro. Should be fun. The 2.7 will be turning into a 2.5 (2.2L conversion) later this year. Anyone need a hot 2.7?
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Chad Plavan
911ST Race Car/2.5L SS Race Motor #02
1972 911T- Numbers matching- Restoring to stock
2011 Porsche Spyder Wht/Blk/Carbon Fiber Buckets/6-Speed (Sold)
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype racecar- Chassis #20, #02

Last edited by Plavan; 06-18-2003 at 08:46 AM..
Old 06-18-2003, 08:42 AM
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just sold my 2.7

I will be running at Nurburgring this Sunday...5 laps of the 13 mile green hell! Should be fun.
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Old 06-19-2003, 05:17 AM
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Modesto has one of the best Porsche mechanics around. His name is Bob Fox at Kruse Lucas on Tully Rd. He has worked on my cars for 25 years.
Keith Widdick in Turlock did a perfect rebuild on a 1969 911 t about 25 years ago. I think he is still in the Turlock area.
I would have confidence in both of these guy.
Old 06-19-2003, 09:30 PM
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Eurotrends in Ceres...Honest...Straight forward. Not cheap not out of line. Had business dealings with Keith for 23 years...never a problem. He has worked for a couple of dealers and some TOP rated independents. $86.00 Hr. shop rate, seems high but the job gets done twice as fast. They just changed my oil cooler fan on one(I have 2 911's) so if A/C is on fan runs no matter what...If A/C not on I have toggle switch to turn fan on if oil temp comes up. I don't think they have nose up in the air about "Shade tree" wrenches like some shops do.

Old 06-21-2003, 08:47 AM
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