1987 G50 Shifter Coupler Question

[Karter18]

I have been noticing that my car when cold is hard to shift into 2nd and 3rd. It feels a little clunky going into each, like the trans syncros are not letter the gear in too easy. Gets a little better upon warming up but never feels like butter. Car has 179K on it. I am running Mobil 1 Delvac in the trans that was changed last summer replacing some purple heavier fluid.

I took the console apart and the shifter bushings appear to be ok.

Looking at the shift coupler it looks like there is a lot of play and the rubber bushing seems to be shrunk. The bolts are tight so there is a lot of slop when moving the shifter - See photo. There appear to be gaps where the arrows are - is this normal of should I order a replacement? Seems like the rubber is not really doing a lot and allowing significant play in its current state.

Third question is I am about to replace the brake lines with the Pelican SS lines and will bleed everything and it sounds like the clutch is a good thing to bleed also at the same time?

I did a search and found the same types of issues but usually related to the shifter coupling, etc. and those appear to be ok in this car. Although the one is basically upside down but it feels intact?

Thank you for everyone's assistance.

[robcf]

The coupler is there to allow off axis movement much like a universal joint (more like a guibo joint). The gaps are normal, in fact the bolts are stepped to create those gaps. Pull one out if you like to understand in more detail.

[michael lang]

I agree, the coupler looks normal and that is the last thing I would think is your problem. You said your car has 179K on it, when was the clutch last replaced? The clutch may be getting worn and not allowing smooth engagement. Without looking at it, there is no way to know for sure what is happening.
When you flush the brake fluid on your car, you are also flushing the clutch fluid. Remember on the G50s, the clutch uses the same fluid as the braking system.

[steely]

what do your transmission mounts look like? mine actually seemed to shift a tad better when i replaced mine, but there is some discussion on whether this actually lifts and improves alignment between shift rod and trans or not.

bleeding clutch slave cyl is not a bad idea.

[gamin]

My G50 shifts hard to 2nd and 3rd when cold just like Karter 18. Shifts just fine when warmed up. My opinion is that it is pretty normal. I too use Mobile 1 Delvac. His coupler looks fine. I also have the shift fork shaft and guide tube updates and a new spring center disc. 106K. I just think that these gearboxes are most happy when warm.

[robcf]

Mine is also most difficult to get into 2nd on the first shift (also using Delvac), give it 10mins and it shifts excellent.

Reading some of Matt Monson's posts, you'll have a better shifting experience on the street with regular Mobile 1 rather than the Delvac.

[spyerx]

Delvac in 3 of my 911 is a little balky when cold. Excellent when warmed up. If your car is shifting fine when warm all is well. I'm sure you can try a line that is better cold but what's the point you want the protection when at opp temps.

[porschenut]

Echo what the others said. The G50 is a little balky when cold in the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. My '86.5 928 5-speed was the same way, and I've been told it's because of the Borg-Warner synchros that are used in both transmissions. Both of them shift like butter when warmed up.

[Karter18]

Originally Posted by robcf

The coupler is there to allow off axis movement much like a universal joint (more like a guibo joint). The gaps are normal, in fact the bolts are stepped to create those gaps. Pull one out if you like to understand in more detail.

As always great info from everyone and it is much appreciated. I figured on those bolts as they looked like they have sleeves on them so they can only be tighter so far. The car does shift much better when warm and I do not have all the records as the shop where it was serviced went from paper to electronic and the paper records are stored - mike's Stuggart West. One of these days when I get up to central CA I would love to call them and offer to go through the records and make copies of this cars. I have the owners manual stamped by the dealer and then a gap and then the electronic records which were recent before the owner passed away.

Next step is bleeding the brakes and clutch slave and see how that works.

Thanks everyone!

[Quicksilver]

Sounds like a good time to think about putting in the JWest G50 shift coupler. It makes the shift connection much more direct. If you want some isolation it probably isn't for you but if you want an extremely tactile feel in your shifts it works great for just a $20 investment.



As you can see it is a plastic replacement for the original rubber portion of the coupler. The rubber is retained on the transmission side of the coupler with rivets that you drill out and replace with the supplied bolts.

I replaced the bushings in my shifter at about 235K miles which made a big improvement and a month later I did the JWest coupler. The difference from the coupler was huge. It transmits every nuance through the shifter now. It does transmit a touch more of the G50's rattly noises but I don't suspect anyone will care.

[ur2ez2tz]

I bought Delvac for my street driven car, but then changed my mind and bought Motul Gear 300. Solved my third gear synchro issue and cold shifts. I have a psj shift coupler that I'm now in less of a hurry to install.

[1988targa]

[Q
If it is sloppy, it is probably the front bushing that is the easiest to replace. Just remove the shifter arm with the two bolts.one in front and one that connects to the rod. Try that first with the front o ring if needed that goes on behind the front bolt. These usually are in pieces. There is a second bushing on the rear of the shifter housing. Usually ok. If that needs replacing I will give you a hint on how to install this easier. As it is almost impossible to fit this without damaging the new bushing because it is so tight, turn it lip up and with a hacksaw cut a groove through the lip and neck as close to middle as possible. Then turn it 180 degrees and cut it again. You should have cut it into four sections. Should go in fairly easy now and your lip is still pristine. Take a little wet and dry sandpaper tobthe inside to remove any burrs. Once the rod is in the bushing it holds the lips tight.
You'll need to put the transmission in 3rd and disconnect the two bolts off the coupler by opening the door behind the console between the rear seats. Work it to the side and back behind the rubber bushing carefully. This will give you just enough room to remove the shifter housing without drilling out the rear bolts on the coupler at the rear and avoid removing the rubber bushing.

UOTE=Karter18;8987765]I have been noticing that my car when cold is hard to shift into 2nd and 3rd. It feels a little clunky going into each, like the trans syncros are not letter the gear in too easy. Gets a little better upon warming up but never feels like butter. Car has 179K on it. I am running Mobil 1 Delvac in the trans that was changed last summer replacing some purple heavier fluid.

I took the console apart and the shifter bushings appear to be ok.

Looking at the shift coupler it looks like there is a lot of play and the rubber bushing seems to be shrunk. The bolts are tight so there is a lot of slop when moving the shifter - See photo. There appear to be gaps where the arrows are - is this normal of should I order a replacement? Seems like the rubber is not really doing a lot and allowing significant play in its current state.

Third question is I am about to replace the brake lines with the Pelican SS lines and will bleed everything and it sounds like the clutch is a good thing to bleed also at the same time?

I did a search and found the same types of issues but usually related to the shifter coupling, etc. and those appear to be ok in this car. Although the one is basically upside down but it feels intact?

Thank you for everyone's assistance.[/QUOTE]

[Sajan]

So I was thinking of replacing the bushings under the shifter and one of the things I've read is the difficulty in sliding the entire assembly back into the shift rod.
Tip is to undo the coupler in the tunnel.

What precautions do I need to take when undoing the coupler? I can also replace the rubber bushing when I am in there. I tried to search for the steps and I didn't find anything at first glance.

[dan88911]

This maybe helpful
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/143268-g50-shift.html

[ab1752]

Mobilube ptx worked best in my g50 by far...

[AlBackus36]

Have you tried checking the shifter for the recommended 5mm gap? I agree the coupler looks normal.

1988 G50 Shifter Alignment

I'm currently taking my '87 G50 a part with 152k on it and finding some worn synchros. Mine is difficult to shift into 1st and 2nd when cold. Tried fluids, adjustments, wevo parts, etc.

YMMV.

[Roswell]

FWIW...the 5mm shift alignment made a substantial difference. Also replace the slave cylinder and bleed it like crazy.

[AlBackus36]

Agreed on replacing the slave. It's not that hard to reach this stuff to replace and bleed the clutch. You can support the front of the trans at the beam and lower it a few to get some extra clearance if needed. I'm pretty certain my combo rubber/metal hyd line from firewall to slave was contributing as well. If this stuff is original, it's getting pretty old. I used a motive power bleeder to bleed the clutch solo. Pretty easy.

OP, IMO once you've adjusted everything and you know you have an acceptable fluid in the trans, your next bet is internals if the trans continues to bother you. I feel like the G50 has a bulletproof reputation for good reason, but it's still a brass synchro on a steel gear no matter how you slice it. It's going to wear eventually.