Boot won't open
 

The boot on my 1982 SC won't open. The car has been in extended storage but the last time I was looking it over the boot opened fine. It doesn't really feel any different, it just won't release. What are the steps to get it open and or replace a cable or fix it otherwise. I'm sure there's a thread on this but my search didn't scare up anything.

Bad luck! There are threads on here suggesting removing the bumper and drilling a hole in a particular position in the front face of the slam panel to allow access to the cable and release the lock. Hopefully someone will chime in with the link. But first I would get a friend to press down on the boot lid in the area of the lock whilst you pull the handle to release.

So the handle has some resistance when pulled (?)

It’s possible to yank too hard on the handle to the point the cable strips from the adjustment lug.

The default if the cable breaks is that it releases the lid catch pawl. Obviously the lid is binding. A spring keeps tension on the lid pin, the cable pulls the pawl out of the way of the pin.
Check your lid panel gaps to be sure nothing shifted or out of alignment, that may give you an indication where it’s binding.

Agree, have someone pull the handle while you’re pressing down and trying to shift the lid to the right.
You’re trying to get the lid pin to release from a little crescent shaped pawl in the latch mechanism. There’s not much wiggle room to get the lid to move but worth a try to see if it may work before any extreme method. Get creative with pushing down or pulling up shift the lid in different maneuvers.

From bad luck to good news
 

With help from a friend, it did release and open. Thanks, Ian. Glad I tried that first. My theory is that with the car sitting dormant for so long, everything needs more effort. It's probably like everything else with our favorite cars. It just needs to be used.

The lid doesn't appear to be out of alignment. The gas struts gave up the ghost. Plan to get new ones made with more pressure than factory. I had some made for my 924 that have a lot more push. It's really nice. Suspect the factory pressure level accommodates owners who don't have a lot of arm strength to pull them down. Can't think of another reason since the strut maker tells me that higher pressure doesn't affect longevity. You need but to ask.

What did you and your friend ultimately do to open the frunk lid?

While it is open, you should lube the cable and latch mechanism. Also verify that it is adjusted correctly.

Here is the factory way:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1711989120.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1711989120.jpg

Thanks, Harry
 

My friend pushed down on the deck lid while I pulled the release handle. I didn't have to pull any harder than usual. He then stuck his fingers under and pulled up to the stop point for the safety release. Slid the safety and wallah it was open. I've been wondering if it just didn't pop up like it would normally because the struts were out of gas.


I will study your drawing and instructions and adjust it. I will also get new struts ASAP as note below.

Glad it was simple. Try lubricating the hinges and lock mechanism as well. I have 430 nm struts on my long hood.

Yes, a scary moment
 

I was pretty freaked out when it first happened. I envisioned taking a third of the car apart to get under the deck lid.


I've had a rash of problems in the last couple weeks with all my cars including my Japanese daily drivers that never give me problems. I guess my bias toward old cars is finally catching up with me. :rolleyes:

When I had that problem, the latch was out of adjustment in the fore-aft direction. As the upper part of the latch (spear?) comes down into the lower part, it was too far back and jamming against the back just enough that it wouldn't release without doing what you and your friends did. Try adjusting the latch forward or backward a little bit.

More great help from fellow Pelicans
 

Thanks, PeteKz. I will take a look! :)

Spray copious amounts of lube (WD-40, or spray silicone work well) down the shaft where the lock mechanism is in the drivers side, and move the opener lever back and forth some (use a rag to keep the overspray off your carpet) Lubing up the cable there a good maintenance idea too. Put graphite lube in the lock if you ever want to lock the frunk lid.

And a different sub.

One of my keys will not open the frunk lock or the GB so if you lock it, don't panic if you can't get it open with one of your keys. Test the key on the glove box (GB) lock.

Might also help to replace those screwed on decklid bumpers with new springy ones.

also,one more important thing to the front and rear hood problems is the rubber stop adjustments.

they help to open the hood-back pressure.

Ivan

Are the bumpers meant to be adjustable or just screwed in "all the way" ?

Must be adjusted for sure .They need to create back pressure against the deck lid or the front hood

Ivan