Parts list
 

Looking to order some items on Pelican. Can someone provide the part numbers for the following items for a 1971 911T:

Fuel sender gasket. Mine is seeping a bit

Fuel filter. Pelican parts says the fuel filter is only for MFI cars but my carb 71T has a fuel filter.

TIA

Download the PET (Factory parts list) for your car and have them all.

Find it here: https://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/classic/genuineparts/originalpartscatalogue/

Very nice! Thanks Harry.

I see a couple options on the gasket for the fuel sender. Rubber & cork.

What’s the consensus there? Is cork preferred?

I would go with the cork one as the rubber one has the risk of being incompatible with E10 fuel.

This is all I could find for a carb car (TV). 901 201 023 04 6mm, PET interestingly calls it a threaded joint, or the 901 201 023 05 8mm for the E and S is called a fuel tank cap.
The PET and it's diagrams can be quite a challenge at times.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/search/?q=901+201+023+04+

My '70T came from the factory with NO in line fuel filter. There is a screen filter at the tank outlet but it is not sufficient. Just get a good filter from the local auto parts store and install it. I just cut out a section of the upstream fuel line to the carb and installed. The rubber gasket is the preferred choice and has been for a long time. The cork goes bad and leaks. Also, I NEVER use ethanol gas. Pure-gas.org lists 26 locations in California that have ethanol free gas. See if one is near you. If not, do not let E10 sit in your carb float bowls for an extended period of time. I put in an on/off switch for the fuel pump. When parked I turn off the pump and idle until engine stops. Carbs for these cars are very expensive.

Unfortunately I’m not close to any of the gas stations listed for ethanol free. What I run is Chevron 91 gas with a 1-3/4 to 2 gallons of 110 race fuel to combine at 93. Car runs great, although I wish I could have an ethanol free station for when I fill up with 91.

Without an on/off switch for the fuel pump. How would I make sure there is no fuel sitting in the carbs?

I ordered both the cork & rubber gasket. I see the oil level sender uses the same gasket. Is everyone using cork for the oil sender gasket as well?

The easiest option is to just call the Pelican parts department and talk to a human there. They are helpful, and you can get just what you need.

Go to a decent Auto parts store that specializes in older cars and talk to the counter guy. [/soapboxmode]Ehile I want all of us to support Pelican, we need to also support our local FLAPS that specialize in our cars so they can stay open. [/soapboxmode].

What carbs do you have? Are they fed by a rubber hose or a solid line? How about a picture of what you have? This info will help us help you.

When I replaced mine I used the rubber. I have no idea if the cork or rubber is better.
If the rubber fuel lines are old, I would also replace them with ethanol rated rubber.
As I noted in the previous post, the names in the PET make no sense but the the fitting is a screen. I would say to remove it and either clean or replace it, and add a filter somewhere in the line.
gavin makes a good point about leaving ethanol gas sitting in the carbs. Some of my carbs have a drain on the float bowl, if not I shut off the gas and run the engine till it stalls when it's going to sit for some time. I have cleaned carburetors on my motorcycles and cars over the years. Straight gas leaves deposits that can clog up passages and jets, but can be cleaned without too much work. The deposits from evaporated ethanol gas are harder to clean, but generally come out good. Most of the carburetor problems I find are air leaks from parts wearing more than the gas.
While your car does need 91 octane, the 110 gasoline's all contain lead. Leaded gas leaves a lot of lead deposits inside the combustion chamber, spark plugs, and valves. It is not healthy for the engine. I think you would be better off without the 110 gas. This photo shows the plug on the right with deposits from leaded gas.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1715785950.jpg

Weber 40 IDTP carbs.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/restored-weber-carburetor-set/

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1715793318.jpg

Thanks for the info. I was told by my shop that it would be good to run a gallon or two of 110 to help compression. My engine was completely rebuilt to 2.4L recently. Less than 3k miles ago. The reason they recommended 110 to achieve 93 was to help the car from hesitating within the rev band around 4k rpm. The car doesn’t suffer from that anymore, however I’m starting to notice some popping in the carbs & it’s starting to have trouble holding idle without adjusting the throttle. Even when fully warmed. Sometimes resulting to close moments of flooding the engine.

Sounds like you need to go back to the basics.

Do a tuneup. Check/replace as needed plugs, points, cap. Adjust valves. Clean/adjust carbs. Check/adjust dwell and timing and advance.

What compression ratio did they go with when they went up to 2.4l? New camshafts?
It looks like the Weber's were nicely redone. Following up on Harry's suggestion, now that it should be broken in, have all the tune up items been checked? After I rebuilt and broke in my '86 engine I went over all the adjustments and ran a compression test to make sure everything was seated. That was a little simpler than yours though with no carbs or timing due to the Motronic. I did have to go through the distributor to get the advance weights freed up.
While it's a bit of work I kind of enjoy adjusting carbs with my Uni-syn and Synchrometer.

Here’s the breakdown for the engine rebuild. No expense spared & doesn’t include the new Webers.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1715802288.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1715802309.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1715802339.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1715802364.jpg

So it’s normal to need a tuneup shortly after an engine rebuild? The carbs were just tuned just 2,000 miles ago.

I did notice this weekend the engine was running higher than normal temps

I revived this thread about that over here

https://www.early911sregistry.org/forums/showthread.php?66934-Normal-Engine-Temperature/page11

I see they used Joe Gibbs break in oil. Not sure what break in procedure they used, but I followed Wayne's recommendations. After a proper break in once the parts start to wear in I would definitely do a tune up. Cams and rings will have started to settle in. I would adjust the valve clearance and do a compression and leak down test to make sure the rings are sealing, check points gap, ignition timing.
It looks like you've had a really thorough rebuild done. 70.4mm CW crankshaft. New oil pump and oil bypass modification. I see a piston and cylinder set, but no information on it, but seems to be a Mahle set since they charged for a Mahle piston ring set. That is a strange bill since P&C sets come with rings. I see camshafts Mod S. I don't have experience with modified engines, but from what I've read Mod S is a slightly aggressive choice for street use.
The distributor was rebuilt and ignition curve set, but what was the ECU/Motronic $2,100? I see spark plugs, cap, and rotor, but no wires or points mentioned.

I am curious, could tell us about the metal refinishing-magnesium treatment CMS847369, $1250.

$54.k out of my league for sure

Best of luck with her