Time for Re-paint

[Crow911]

Well, my 1986 911 Coupe is showing signs of clear coat failure. Its the original paint as mine is metallic white gold 2 stage paint. I had some body work done on the drivers side door which was re-painted and blended perfect. I have clear coat failing on passenger side rear quarter extending to top of passenger door and over rear deck just below rear window. Hood and both front fenders perfect. Considered doing a wrap, but the colors available just wouldnt do justice to my period-correct beauty. Couple of questions:
1) do I opt a complete re-spray, windows out, full body work etc.?
2) do I opt for a re-spray of the troubled areas and risk issues with color matching and future clear coat failure on the front of car?
3) if number 2, anyone do this dyi?
4) any recommendations for a shop in central/south florida that does paint/body work?
5) costs of #1 vs. #2

Couple of photos and problem area. Thanks for any feedback!

[Crow911]

Also, I have tried compounding and polishing the area but no joy….

[Cairo94507]

If you are going to tackle this paint issue, if it were my car, I would opt for a windows out, full respray of the exterior. Do it right and you will never have to revisit it again. I would remove as much of the trim as you are able and find a bodyshop that is no stranger to Porsche repaints with excellent results.

[rwilner]

Just a note to say i'm in the same boat need a full respray and would love any advice / anecdotes on how far to go. I've gotten quotes literally ranging between $5k and $50k. Would love to know where on the price / value curve i should be looking. I was budgetint 10-15k for a windows out respray, do not know if that's realistic. i'm in the boston area.

[evan9eleven]

I'm also in the camp for a glass out respray. If you've never pulled out the glass or removed the fenders before, you may be surprised what you find depending on what climates your car has lived in during it's life. My car lived mostly in warm climates before I got it and appeared 99% rust free in spite of the trashed paint. So I was quite surprised when I started pulling it apart and found much more rust than I had imagined it would have...

[77Targa0912]

Glass out is the only way.

[WMichelsen]

I am in process of #1 right now. I'm doing as much disassembly as I can, then will trailer the body and all parts to a body shop for prep and paint (and some repair). I'm think I'm about 50% into the disassembly. Then, I'll pay for body/paint as time and materials.

Preface: I'm in SanFrancisco area where body shop labor rates are $145/hr.

For complete drive-in/drive-out estimates, I got totals between 14K and 35K-50K. I think 30K was a pretty thoughtful number from a reputable shop. I asked a few questions on the lower numbers and they were admittedly not realistic. The higher numbers range depends on depth of disassembly/coverage/masking (eg. door jambs, etc), and maybe custom car stuff? And, of course, what seals/parts are to be reused/replaced.

For a more solid job quote, a shop wanted $1000 to write up the estimate (credit applicable to the job). Rightfully so, IMO. That's significant work on their part.

[Queefchief]

Paint is def the "if you're gonna do it, do it right" situation. Glass out respray. Talk to a reputable shop and they will say the same.

Now's the time to make her shine!

[EC900]

Depends how all the other paint is holding up, dings, scratches, chips, etc. I’d keep as much or I paint as possible - and for sake of provenance document the repair area for future stewardship.

No need to do entire side (door, ft. fender and lower rocker). Shading is always a concern - but it’s the passenger side…less likely to be noticed every time to go for a drive.

If it were mine…I would just have the previous shop repaint just the bad area if confident in the color match and application talent.
The good thing is they can respray the entire quarter including along the C-pillar and roof line under drip channel, and down to bumper/rocker line. That’s the section I’d get estimates for. All one big uniform color match rather than just the small affected spot.

Seen a lot of quarter panel paint failures in that spot on the Mid-years, mostly the 70’s. Poor paint probably, recall GM had similar delaminating paint problems too.

[David Inc.]

Originally Posted by evan9eleven

I'm also in the camp for a glass out respray. If you've never pulled out the glass or removed the fenders before, you may be surprised what you find depending on what climates your car has lived in during it's life. My car lived mostly in warm climates before I got it and appeared 99% rust free in spite of the trashed paint. So I was quite surprised when I started pulling it apart and found much more rust than I had imagined it would have...

My experience too. Pretty much a pristine car except for a spot under the plastic door sill...until we pulled the fenders off and saw the buildup between the fenders and the cowl.

[creaturecat]

don't think there was (originally) clear coat on an '86. ...... single stage only.

[Duc Hunter]

My Rat Rod is being cut apart to do rust repair, whole floor is out, etc. I asked about paint cost. I’m getting a great price with a great guys doing the work. Given that you dont know what you will find when the windows come out and it gets sanded down (rust, bad body repairs prior to your ownership, etc), you need a bit of a war chest to do it “just in case.” He said if there was no body work to be fixed, just sand down and repaint properly plan on 150-200 hours plus paint costs.

Remember it needs to be sanded back to at least a quality substrate, which can mean back to primer. Some people want to go back to almost bare metal to make sure the body work underneith is solid. If its not, the paint guy could do a great job, and then a pin hole of rust could start from a bad repair under the primer, and you get a little bubble, and then you and they are both mad.

[997at]

I would be a proponent of a glass out/bare metal full respray. It's the only way to have it done once and correctly. That being said, it's expensive.
I'm about to send mine off to have the same thing done...expect it to be 50K at least. I will have way more in my car with the paint and mechanical work over the years than it's worth on the market, but the real value of the car is what it's worth to me. My car is an '82 SC.

[creaturecat]

around 35-50 k for a windows out repaint here.
and? you would have to beg someone to do it.

[Crow911]

Originally Posted by creaturecat

don't think there was (originally) clear coat on an '86. ...... single stage only.

Metallics were all 2 stage

[Crow911]

Awesome feed back! Thanks so much. I think I am going to have the bad areas addressed and leave the rest for later. Its not a concours trailer queen and I will not be selling her during my life time so going to just get rid of the wrinkles with a half face lift!

[maverck]

Originally Posted by Crow911

Awesome feed back! Thanks so much. I think I am going to have the bad areas addressed and leave the rest for later. Its not a concours trailer queen and I will not be selling her during my life time so going to just get rid of the wrinkles with a half face lift!

Be sure to post up photos of the results. I too may have some more minor cleanup done to our paint without doing a full windows out - and our vehicle is similar in color to yours.

[Showdown]

I'll be the contrarian here...

Don't repaint it.

To do it right is going to cost a lot. Others have said 200 hours, $30k... and that's if everything goes smoothly and according to plan.

Is new paint going to add to the experience of driving the car that much and will you be willing to really drive the snot out of it with pristine new paint or will that paint keep you off gravel roads, out of the rain and nervous in parking lots?

What else could $30k get you: a Boxster to thrash around the track (if that's your thing) an engine rebuild with loads of upgrades, one helluva vacation, a new bathroom, some college tuition, etc...

If money's no object then disregard all of what I've posted.

[EC900]

I never had a new car that didn’t suffer some sort of paint damage within the first 3,000 miles of daily driving including bird droppings, road kick ups….used cars did better, lasted a bit longer. Big city driving has its hazards.

I couldn’t justify paying big for a compete respray on a car that I paid big for. Original owners or cheap projects could be candidates.
The 911 came back from the shop with two well hidden, ‘never noticed before’ dings on the original paint.

Tip: Before taking car to the shop, highlight the existing dings with blue tape and snap a photo. leave tape on the car for the shop to see and verify existing damage. Don’t allow any car washing or removing the blue tape and re-check car before leaving the shop.

[creaturecat]

Originally Posted by Crow911

Metallics were all 2 stage

i stand corrected. : )