Help with 80's stereo

[P944GUY]

Can anyone help me with some install manuals or owners manuals for Blaupunkt CR3001 head unit and the Blaupunkt BEQ-60 equalizer, got these for free and going to get the set up working but need some more info on the wiring..it's early 80's 911 ..I have access to junkyard with many parts cars so that's not a problem for wires..

Please Help, thanks, Jeff

[grizzfan]

Start here:

Blaupunkt Cr 3001 - Free Product Manual

Tom

[blucille]

It should be pretty straightforward, but it has been decades since I wired-up that setup

The funny 2-prong plugs are speaker-level, the round, multi-pin connectors are called din cables, and they are low-level, pre-amp.

The EQ has a fader so it takes two-channel in and gives 4 channel out.

Each of the 3 pieces needs power and ground, the radio/head unit needs full time (key off or on) power to retain memory, plus key-on only power...plus ground, plus the antenna connection.

Most of that vintage blaupunkt has a din connector, so you'd be able to do radio din to EQ din to amp din....maybe.

Looking at your wires, I see a pair of speaker level wires at the EQ, so I'd assume it's speaker level into the EQ, stereo only, and then a din cable to amp....and 4 speakers connect to the amp....if you can do din in and din out you'll reduce the level of noise in the system.

Photos of the connectors would help, but there isn't too much that you can do wrong here.

[P944GUY]

So the head unit has 4 wires coming out orange, red - says to 12v after ignition switch, and pink, and then the din cable which I think would go to the amp
The beq60 equalizer has red orange and black and din in and out, short and long and some speaker wires
There is a little tab on the back of the head unit which would be for ground wire?
On the back of the amp there are the speaker connections and a connect for 12v and a little tab for ground wire

Where inline would the equalizer go, or am I missing more wiring , I am going to set up on a bench first and get it all sorted out...

Anybody have wiring diagrams for this radio cr3001

[blucille]

based on the gender of the connectors on the head unit, pink and red are for power, the orange is to drive the amplifier on or to raise/lower a power antenna

I would take the DIN Input to the EQ and hook it up to the DIN connector on the head unit.

I would take the DIN output of the EQ and hook it up to the amp.

power, ground, etc, all goes to all of them....amp power you want to run a heavy wire direct from the battery, it isn't a huge amp, I'd suggest 10 gauge wire will be more than sufficient. Fuse at the battery, please. The turn-on signal (orange wire) will keep it from drawing power unless the radio is on.

then, just hook the speaker wires up to the amp.

[ahh911]

I don't have a manual, would someone be so kind as to tell me what the 3 colored wire hook up to? Red Pink Orange. Blaupunkt CR-3001. A photo of the manual showing hookup would be appreciated, including power antenna and amp if possible.

Phil

[ahh911]

blucille was right.
To add, it looks like pink wire is for clock and memory, red power, and orange antenna. This was how it was hooked up. Last year I replaced the cassette drive belt, it worked fine on one side but chews up the tape when it changes direction. I'm either going to try and fix it, or prevent it from flipping sides without me noticing.

Anyone know how to fix the FM going into Mono when the deck warms up? It's directly related the time on and the ambient temperature. It will play and lock perfectly in mono, just the stereo goes out? Diode? Cold solder joint? Leaking cap or something? The reason for all the question is I've cleaned up the work area to take it apart again.

Anyone?

Also, my light in front doesn't work either, any ideas? The LED's mostly light up, but there is supossed to be a green glow that I'd like back, if it ever existed.

Phil

[kees]

Originally Posted by ahh911

Also, my light in front doesn't work either, any ideas? The LED's mostly light up, but there is supossed to be a green glow that I'd like back, if it ever existed.

Phil

I should be as in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Px7Xx8WV97s


Kees.

[kees]

Orange = electric antenna connection
Pink = to +12V battery direct (backup)
Red = to +12V cat accessory fuse box

This is from the original Blaupunkt manual. Can't get the picture uploaded.


Kees.

[wrxnofx]

Originally Posted by kees

Orange = electric antenna connection
Pink = to +12V battery direct (backup)
Red = to +12V cat accessory fuse box

This is from the original Blaupunkt manual. Can't get the picture uploaded.


Kees.

If the pink goes directly to 12V then the red has to be the switched 12V. If one of these isn’t switched then the unit will be always on and therefore drain the battery.

My guess is that the red is always on and the punk is switched. The older Blaupunkt unit that I have has the wiring diagram printed on it.

[kees]

Originally Posted by wrxnofx

If the pink goes directly to 12V then the red has to be the switched 12V. If one of these isn’t switched then the unit will be always on and therefore drain the battery.

My guess is that the red is always on and the punk is switched. The older Blaupunkt unit that I have has the wiring diagram printed on it.

No the pink is always on and the red is switched.

[ahh911]

Pink is always on, clock and Memory.
Red is switched. Confirmed.

Figured out the device that when cooled puts the fm reception back in stereo, need to see if I can do something about it, removed the tape deck and will look shortly with the improved access.

Found the reason for the tape deck chewing tapes in one direction, and squeeling. Nice and quiet now. Belt I put in last year still good.

As far as the glow in the front from the youtube video, I didn't find a light source last time, I'll have to take off the front again and take another look.

This cr-3001 is so, mmmm, like they tried to have more features than were reasonable for the technology of the time, so too many electronics, mechanical this and thats, hand soldered board to board connections, I have to unsolder about 10 wires just to take the deck out to access the bottom, man, poubelle.

Anyway, I continue.
Phil

[ahh911]

Model, Blaupunkt cr-3001, made in Japan.

If someone has the FM radio able to play in Mono, but not stereo, this below allowed stereo output once the stereo was warmed as well. It may have masked another aging problem so no guarantees the problem will not re-occur. The potentiometer was still set roughly to mid scale, so there is still some margin. This seems to set the bias current required to create the 19 KHz signal. When it was warming up and going out of stereo, this 19 KHz dropped to about 18.7. Once I turned the potentiometer clockwise to add more current, 19 KHz locked back in and stereo over a wide range of temperatures returned. (51 degC at the board). The board is found on the right side, remove the front two case screws, the side two fm tuner cage screws and the bottom panel, loosen the front control large nut so it can move around. The board drops out the bottom.

I did solder the long 8 double pin showed as it was the element (TTL Logic gates) that was succeptbile to the cold spray. Didn't seem to help, but it may have. I also searched and soldered anything suspicious. Only after all this was done did I find the frequency was off, so soldering may have helped in some other way. I can't read the ttl logic IC identification, it's block by other elements and it's far too risky to remove.

I have no schematics or manual, this was done through inspection.
Phil

[aoncurly]

I have a PDF of the original CR3001 manual if you want a copy. Hit me up via PM.

[Coastr]

This is great. I got my original blaupunkt stereo /eq and amp working. Worth it in the end to have the period stereo pumping away.

I don’t have yours with the little et head thing, but it’s as period cool. You’re right with head unit - eq - amp so far.

I bench tested mine with a 12v power supply and speakers and got it all working before transplanting into the car. Never tried a cassette I got an in-line aerial connection for transmitting Bluetooth through a radio station. Works great and put a mic in for hands free/Siri commands.

[ahh911]

Thanks Guys, Been busy.
Had no lights, put in an amber for ambiance as the greens leds were too dim. Couldn't find the original bulb location, doesn't matter, I' like this calming old school amber glow.

3x LED 2 contacts, 50mA typical, amber. vlmk334bacb-gs08ct at Digikey, online. (Though the one soldered on the last picture with the red wire coming out the top was real easy to do and alone may be good enough for some.)

3x 400-600 Ohm 1/4 watt resistor ~25mA, or 1/4W, get 1/2 Watt if you have access.

Heat shrink. Shrunk the product around the led, then cut away the open with a new blade.

Hooked everything to 12V switched and "case" ground at the location near the entry of the power feeds in back, also added the resistors and heat shrink again there. Chose switched supply as opposed to radio on supply as that area of the dash needs warm lighting regardless of whether the stereo is on or not at night and at the low power numbers the leds use it makes sense.

Pictures, it's better in real life, exposure etc.. is not my thing, the bottom picture shows the led soldered to a case ground node and pointing to the corner away from the driver otherwise with a tape cassette in it looked like it might cause distraction though reflections. The amber is not as bright as it looks, it's just hard to capture the right settings on the camera, at the current the leds are running, it should be the right intensity in the car.

Given the 50mA, or x2 margin in current, I'm not too worried about filtering the supply, as you won't catch a surge anyhow and peak current on these things is much higher. I suppose a 14V zener diode across the structure maybe with a series resistor would protect these under extreme over voltage spikes, but honestly, if they get damaged I'll address it to the next level.

Phil


EDIT: It looks great in the car at night without the dash lights on.
There are two things I don't like, first is the amber is too deep for the incandecent gauge and vent control colors. It makes the old filament bulbs look bright white.
Second, the led that's in the last image pointing towards the corner adds a streak of bright light into the passengers eye. I will turn it to face the rear.
Third, Maybe less intensity all around, perhaps 1k Resistor instead of the ~ 500 Ohm.

I will definitely rotate the top led so it points back, reduce the power in the leds to ~12mA using the 1k resistor. I may swap in a more white led as well, but I don't have the correct ones on hand.
Phil

[ronmanfredi]

Originally Posted by aoncurly

I have a PDF of the original CR3001 manual if you want a copy. Hit me up via PM.

Hello, Can you send me a PDF copy of the CR 3001 manual? I need one. ron.manfredi@att.net Thank you!

[Newbydude]

Just like P944GUY I'm also looking for a copy of the CR-3001 manual. Any assistance will be gratefully accepted.