Engine Bay Cleanup

arcsine · 11-21-2002, 09:46 AM

Just in case anyone out there was interested, this is one of the benefits of removing the AC and backdating the heater on your SC.

Access to the valve covers, plugs, shock towers ...

pbs911 · pbs911's Garage

I did hte same thing and I couldn't agree more that the engine is much more accessable. BTW, what are the yellow thingies on the coil and air filter cover in the second picture?

arcsine · 11-21-2002, 09:55 AM

On the air filter is a Shell sticker and I have no clue what the one coil says. I will give it a look at lunch.

widebody911 · widebody911's Garage

Vorsicht Heiss?

Quote:

Originally posted by Gary Carlton
On the air filter is a Shell sticker and I have no clue what the one coil says. I will give it a look at lunch.

NapTownSpeedy · 11-21-2002, 10:48 AM

Hopefully that is what mine will look like by Sunday. Have all of the parts in, also a Bursch and Magnecore wires. I can't beleive I have to work tomorrow, it's killing me.

Superman · 11-21-2002, 10:48 AM

I couldn't agree more. Several of my engine compartment inhabitants have been powder coated, so my engine is a bit of a jaw-dropper. Looks pretty much like the engine on Wayne's engine book cover.

island911 · 11-21-2002, 10:50 AM

Gary, looks great . . I need to do the same.

On the "before" pic; it looks like it's from another 911 (?)

arcsine · 11:38 AM

The beautification of the engine will be next year. The plan right now is:

engine + tranny drop
JW rebuilds the tranny
SSI's and Monty muffler
new shocks
new axles
new clutch
fix two small oil leaks
Magnecors
power coat the fan
clean and polish as much as possible

kicking around the idea of 3.2 P&C

Glenn, You are correct sir. I actually took the before image out of an Ebay ad. I was too stupid to get a shot of my engine before I started removing things

arcsine · 11-21-2002, 01:05 PM

Paul,
The answers are:

Air box sticker: Just says something to the effect that the factory used Shell fuels and lubricants.

Coil sticker: Says that it is a Bosch coil and then maybe a receipe for hasenpfeffer. My German languge skills are lacking.

Elombard · 11-21-2002, 04:04 PM

Looks great, exactly what I did. How did you "form" the metal on the drivers side air vent to clear the distributor?? I used a hammer - ugly.

When I did my engine R&R I painted the tin silver and clear coated it. Its not very factory but makes it alot lighter in there to see stuff (leaks etc.) I wish I could do a pic, my digital cameras software isnt suported on waynes site.

Now wouldnt it look really great with a set of 40mm webbers and a crank fire ignition so you could get rid of the rest of the mess!!

pbs911 · pbs911's Garage

Thanks Gary. I never really new what the Shell sticker said because mine is so worn from the years. But did you notice how they suddenly appeared in the second phot? Did you put the stickers on after the back date heater?

83911sc · 11-21-2002, 05:17 PM

wow - looks great!

My A/C suffers from exessive competition from a dropped top, so that's sounding like a nice weekend project!

What's the deal with backdating the heater?

Adam

JK-81SC · 11-22-2002, 07:40 AM

Can someone give us a quick "how-to" on back dating the heater? I'm also wondering what is involved.

Does this mod degrade the ability to defrost the windows when I'm sitting at a stoplight? Lots of frost this time of year!

kstylianos · 11-22-2002, 07:54 AM

If you do a search on PP board or the Rennlist board, there are plenty of articles explaining the backdate procedure and items needed with part numbers. The most expensive or hardest part to find is the right side air duct....expensive to buy new, and hard to find used.

When backdating the heat, you are removing the blower motor and essentailly relying on the engine fan to supply air flow through the heating ducts/hoses. So, at a stop or low RMP motoring, air flow into the cabin will be minimal.

-Charlie

arcsine · 08:29 AM

Paul, the before picture is from a different car. I was too stupid to take a shot before I started to remove things and had to steal a shot from elsewhere.

I have not seen a dimunition in the ability to defrost the windscreen. For me the best results are obtained when I do not direct heat to the window but use the fresh air blower to blow cooler air over it so for me the heater is out of that loop.

Here is the parts list directly from Bill Gregory's thread on Rennlist. I recommend reading the thread as there is lots of good info. http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=000034

Parts List:
Left hot air duct, 930.106.321.02, list $148.20
4 plastic nuts, 999.591.592.40, list $.12 each
2 rubber plugs, 999.703.044.50, list $.77 each
Right hot air duct, 911.106.327.00, list $53.45
Right engine cover plate, 911.106.036.00, list $14.89
Right engine cover, 911.106.827.00, list $5.04
Right air duct support, 911.106.331.00, list $1.30
Plus new hose

I bought new parts and used the PCA discount coupon to cut the costs in half. The drivers side duct was already pre-bent to clear the distributor using the part number above.

The biggest hassle was getting the ducting connected on the left side. It is a pretty short and tight fit and the aluminum/paper hose will not do that radius of a bend. I got some aluminum accordion hose from John Walker and it works OK but the really hot ticket from John was to put in a piece of engine surround sheet metal from a turbo that moves the duct forward about 8 inches. I will look at doing that later.

gblumenstock · 11-22-2002, 08:58 AM

I am in the process of backdating the heat on my SC right now. The right side is done. Found a used set of ducts and bought the aircraft high temperature hose form Aircraft Spruce. The hose works well and looks great. No worries about heat damage and it is much more durable than the aluminum. 4 feet for 20 bucks. I have yet to tackle the left side. I hope to do it this weekend.

GB

Superman · 11-22-2002, 10:23 AM

Gary, if you move the hose/sheet metal penetration point forward so there is not such a sharp bend in the engine compartment, then you still end up with a sharp bend under the sheet metal, to the heat exchanger. Can be done, though. In the future, SSI or equivalent heat exchangers are best because that makes it a straight shot. The small sheet metal piece in the left rear engine corner is removed from my car, and that is where the hose penetrates. Some day, I'll get the small piece that has the round hole for this purpose. There is a tennis ball in the 'old' sheet metal tube in the corner.

pbs911 · pbs911's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by Superman
The small sheet metal piece in the left rear engine corner is removed from my car, and that is where the hose penetrates. Some day, I'll get the small piece that has the round hole for this purpose. [/B]

Super, shoot me a pic. I have a couple extra pieces from my conversion. If it is one you need, and it sounds like it is, you can have it. Wouldn't want you to freeze to death over the winter.

clnilsen · clnilsen's Garage

Anyone Know what the time fram of this project is (how long?)

Does it require any engine dropping, etc?

Also, If you were going to do SSI's, would you do this all at once, or do the heat mod now, and do ssi's later?

Thanks!

Chuck

arcsine · 06-03-2003, 08:30 AM

It took me an hour or two to do the whole thing. Biggest hassle is getting the blower and old hose out and connecting the new hose. Other than that goes together pretty fast. You do not need to drop the motor. You can certainly do the SSI's at the same time although there is no procedural benefit.