Strainer plate new type of drain plug

[proporsche]

Anybody has used this kinda drain plug which comes nowadays wit the strainer plate?
I wonder if i should trust it since it does not have the seal just the cone shape how it was manufactured.?.I know there is word for it...;-)

Ivan

[canamfan]

How does it bottom out for torque spec? I see no shoulder

[proporsche]

Originally Posted by canamfan

How does it bottom out for torque spec? I see no shoulder

It is cone shape..you can make it really tight but i wonder if it could trust it for an oil leak?
Ivan

[2.7RS]

If it's aluminum it will deform and seal until you need to buy another plug

[proporsche]

it is steel made...
Just finishing 930 engine and 1975 i could put it on but i hate to drain the oil if it would be leaking...

[pete3799]

I assume it must be tapered pipe thread in which case it should seal ok....does the other plug thread into it?

[Cory M]

It most likely uses a tapered pipe thread. Could potentially wear out over time. I'd rather have one with a replaceable seal. Tarett sell some nice machined aluminum ones that have a normal sealing plug.

[stownsen914]

A tapered plug + some curil T or similar ought to seal it in case the taper alone doesn’t.

[proporsche]

Originally Posted by pete3799

I assume it must be tapered pipe thread in which case it should seal ok....does the other plug thread into it?

yes the strainer plate is original and it takes regular drain plug.

I guess i will test the new plug on the 75 engine since it will be in the same town (my budd`s car)
And use original on the 930 with seal-this goes later Budweis where the original Budweiser is brewed;-)
thanx guys

Ivan

[PeteKz]

Ivan, make sure the new plug is the same thread pitch as the original plug. Pipe thread usually is a different pitch than normal thread!

Otherwise, I would follow plumbing practice for pipe threads and wrap the plug with teflon plumbing tape, then install it.

If you are using this new plug as a way to reduce the amount of plug hanging down below the engine, I have a magnetic drain plug that has a flat shoulder with an Allen socket in it. It was on the engine when I got it. But it is normal thread like the original plug. To put it in anatomic terms, it has an "innie" instead of an "outie."

[proporsche]

Originally Posted by PeteKz

Ivan, make sure the new plug is the same thread pitch as the original plug. Pipe thread usually is a different pitch than normal thread!

Otherwise, I would follow plumbing practice for pipe threads and wrap the plug with teflon plumbing tape, then install it.

If you are using this new plug as a way to reduce the amount of plug hanging down below the engine, I have a magnetic drain plug that has a flat shoulder with an Allen socket in it. It was on the engine when I got it. But it is normal thread like the original plug. To put it in anatomic terms, it has an "innie" instead of an "outie."

I have all kinds of plugs also the one you have mentioned.It is just i wonder who comes up with this idea new type of plugs??
I decided i am going to use plugs with the seal on both engines - do not trust this plug;-)))

Ivan

[john walker's workshop]

I wouldn't either.

[HarryD]

IMHO, an oil drain plug is not a critical fastener.

It needs to be snug so it doesn't loosen with time and not leak. Beyond that, no sense wasting my thinking energy.

Personally, I like the crush washer as it gives me a physical indication that the plus is snug enough.

Also, I would NEVER put Teflon tape on one of these as I do not want Teflon particles to be sucked into the pump and get stuck in the oil passages.

[proporsche]

Warning!!!
Ok i just got new plugs and guess what boys, be very careful. Whoever makes these plugs now, tried to extend the magnet idiotic way!!!
In one bad was a little triangle piece-i was like wht is this here for. Ok next plugs had it attached.So i took wise-grips and it came of so easy.Can you imagine you do engine rebuilds and hopsss this little scheizer comes off inside you fresh rebuild.So i took them off ...
So be careful...
i called the supplier and gave them kinda hell -the nice Czech way thou;-)
Ivan

[nickelplated5s]

Everyone pretty much got it. Tapered thread is commonly called pipe thread but I doubt that would fit any H2O fitting. If you use teflon tape leave the end free of such, don't want a bit floating around in the motor. Personally I would swap out for a flanged fitting. Then the crush washer issue comes up. Consensus seems to be aluminum versus copper for the dielectric issue. Just my 2 cents...