3.2 Carrera Distributor Question?

[mikedsilva]

Looking for guidance as to whether this is normal operation of the internals of a distributor for a 3.2?

I don't understand how the weights do anything as they seem to be pinned and there is no sprung movement when turning the rotor.

On the 3.0 distributor, you can turn the rotor and there is some spring movement...

Do I need to send this distributor out or is it operating correctly? I understand that ignition timing is controlled by the dme, but I've read threads where they say the springs/weights do allow for alignment?

Yes, I'm confused!

Edit: adding info, this is a UK engine 930/20 - not sure if this makes a difference to what the usa ones had?

https://youtube.com/shorts/_YytTvAjylo?feature=share

[E Sully]

Yours seems to be stuck at full advance. It needs to be cleaned and lubricated.
This is a picture of one that also needed a bit of work, but as you can see the weight arms are fully retracted.



This was after cleanup at TDC.

[mikedsilva]

Thanks for the input.
Not sure if it makes a difference, but this is a UK engine.

[mikedsilva]

Ed
in your picture, are there lockpins where I have drawn the arrows? Cos on mine, the weights are pinned in this location, and I assume that is what stops them from bring able to move.

[E Sully]

Not lock pins, guide pins. As you can see in my picture, the arms are pulled into the center, while yours are stuck at full advance. Once cleaned up yours will slide in and out again.
The DME adjusts the timing with Motronic, the function in this case is to keep the rotor in phase (alignment) with the cap as timing changes.

[isby]

Ed- can you provide details on how you cleaned/lubricated your distributor? I’ve not done this on my 3.2 and sounds like a worthwhile endeavor. Thx!!

[E Sully]

Here is a thread I posted giving a brief overview, along with links to other good threads.
It's best to set the engine at TDC and removing the distributor. The hardest part I found was removing the C clip under the felt pad inside the shaft. Get a replacement pin for the gear. I found a dremmel tool with wire brush very useful for polishing the parts.
Distributor Maintenance

[ClickClickBoom]

The distributor felt should have a drop of clean engine oil every oil change, one drop is plenty. It’s under the rotor,

[mikedsilva]

I went and visited a friend with a 3.2 and checked his dist. His moves freely and I can see that mine needs to com apart. I believe the top shaft has seized t tthe bottom one. I'll send it out to be done as I dont want to lose any of the tint parts or make a mistake.

This one has never received any oil and the felt is bone dry.

[autojack]

Originally Posted by ClickClickBoom

The distributor felt should have a drop of clean engine oil every oil change, one drop is plenty. It’s under the rotor,

Oh, I never knew this! I don't remember seeing this on any regular maintenance instructions.

[E Sully]

When I was young and points distributors were common it was part of basic maintenance. Oil the felt and use distributor grease on the rubbing block.
There were a lot of things that were common back in the day. You would check your oil and coolant when you filled the gas tank, today many don't know how to pop the hood release.
In a pinch you could throw in a set of points and condenser, set the gap with a match book cover and adjust dwell by the sound of the engine.
Some don't know how to put on a spare if they have a flat if they even have one, let alone if it even has air in it. Funny that manufacturers have made spare tires an option in many cars.

[dw1]

Originally Posted by ClickClickBoom

The distributor felt should have a drop of clean engine oil every oil change, one drop is plenty. It’s under the rotor,

Excellent advice.

Many or our vintage 911's (like mine) sit for long periods so preventative maintenance to prevent problems like the one encountered above is critical.

[dw1]

Originally Posted by E Sully

When I was young and points distributors were common it was part of basic maintenance. Oil the felt and use distributor grease on the rubbing block.
There were a lot of things that were common back in the day. You would check your oil and coolant when you filled the gas tank, today many don't know how to pop the hood release.
In a pinch you could throw in a set of points and condenser, set the gap with a match book cover and adjust dwell by the sound of the engine.

Oil the felt, grease the rubbing block, and set the point gap with a matchbook cover.... It seems like you are quoting the "back in the day" shade tree mechanic tune-up instructions from my old Camaro and any number of my old Brit sports cars.

[E Sully]

It was the way of life in the '70's. I loved 2-strokes and my motorcycle had 3 sets of points and condensers to set, one per cylinder.
An old girlfriend had an MGB GT. It was a fun car, when it ran. We spent a lot of time in my car going to the Jaguar dealer for parts to keep hers going.