Whoa. Did you leave it in gear, and hand brake on? If so, you are trying to turn the whole drive train. Otherwise, look down in the engine mount around the pulley. You might have dropped something down there.

Yes, I am an idiot. I had left the car in neutral in my garage but since I haven't driven it in months I instinctively put it in gear after driving on to my lift.

This is what happens when one is stressed out and not thinking clearly!

I discovered the issue immediately after I wrote the post and went out and cranked it over. I'm sitting here now, dizzy in hand. Thanks Pete!

Hah! Add that to the list of "dumb 911 mistakes" thread.

Following the disassembly instructions here: https://nineelevenheaven.wordpress.com/maintenance-of-the-distributor/

I am trying to remove the 3rd screw on the base of the stator. Using a brand new 3mm Bondhus Allen wrench. The first 2 came loose with a lot of pressure but the 3rd one won't come loose. I carefully seated the Allen key all the way in, used a little WD40 nd it just won't budge and the head is starting to get a little mangled. I am going to let it sit overnight with more WD40.

Does anyone have any recommendations? I could drill the head and try a screw extractor but I think I'd just buy a rebuilt dizzy from our host before mangling this one.

looshttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1729552637.jpg

I'd keep at it. Here's a trick: Use a drift pin or something like that to hammer down on the screw head. That will help shock the frozen threads loose, and you might be able to compress the mangled part of the socket head to make it tighter on the Allen key.

Also, use a real penetrating oil, like Kroil or Liquid Wrench.

Thanks Pete, I'll give that a try. I've used that trick in the past but didn't want to bang on the dizzy!

Sculisco, yup, that is one of the sources of information I am using.

Well, I tried the drift pin idea, I also heated a sacrificial Allen key to red hot and placed that into the head several times. I also discovered that the vacuum can is not working.

So I've decided to buy a Porsche rebuilt distributor from our host since it will come in next week.

Quick update... I tried heating an Allen key. to red hot again and inserting it into the pesky screwed. This time I was able to loosen it! I was able to remove the stator and it was really gummy with a dark brown almost like tar material. And where the stuck screw was, was very corroded and rusty all the way down to the shaft. The advance mechanism seemed sticky but I was able to free it up with WD40 and brake cleaner. The vacuum pod is not working. So, I'm fine with replacing with a Porsche rebuilt distributor. It is arriving from our host tomorrow and I hope to install it and see how the car runs on Saturday. At least I should be able to set the timing now.

Wits' end
 

I'm back at it...

The new rebuilt (by Porsche) distributor came in this week, as did a replacement AAR. I verified the AAR works and installed it, I then installed the new dizzy. While I was at it I also adjusted my alternator belt as it squeals like a banshee on startup. There were 4 shims between the pulley halves so I moved on to to the outside. That did it, no more squeal.

The car started up after a crank and just a touch of gas. It idled at around 2K RPM. And this is where it all goes back to a complete mess again.

I let the car warm up so I can set the timing to 25° at 4000RPM. Either I've forgotten everything I've learned about setting timing or something is really odd. I have an Innova 5568 adjustable light (I've had it for almost 10 years).

Warmed up and idling at 2200RPM. My AFR is showing 14.7

So I set the timing light to 25° and rev up to 4K. Move the dizzy to get the Z1 mark on the pulley to align with the case mark. Fine so far. I blip the speed up to 5K and see maybe a couple of degrees of advance. Then I let off of the throttle (I am pushing the throttle pushrod on the left side of the throttle body) but the car stays idling at 3800 RPM. I don't think my throttle is sticking but I'll figure out how to check that.

Is it possible that now with a known good dizzy that the fuel mix I set before is the problem? I did notice that my AFR was showing in the high 13s at this point.

Should I leave the timing as it is and idling at 3800RPM and go back and check the fuel mixture or where should I go next?

Ok, I just went out to the garage and started it up again. Been sitting for a little over an hour, engine still warm. It started right up with no extra gas but is idling at 3800RPM.

I checked the throttle - pulled up and down. It is not snagging anywhere.

I also did the air plate lift test. Pushing up a bit and the RPMs drop, pull down a bit and the RPMs drop. This indicates that the mix is set properly.

Tried adjusting the idle screw. It only has 1 turn before it bottoms out and even closing it completely had no effect on idle speed.

Finally, I removed the oil tank cap. The engine speed dropped pretty quickly and the engine stalled.

Hopefully these tests might provide a clue? The only thing I can thing to do now is test again for air leaks with a smoke tester.

Thoughts or recommendations appreciated.

You said this was an experienced shop but did anyone move the throttle plate adjustment nut/screw mistaking it for a way to change idle? Really easy mistake to make if you are used to working on carbs.

Look for unbroken yellow paint on the screw and lock nut. If the paint is unbroken do NOT start playing with it to lower your idle.

Thanks. I will check that. Honestly, I do think he knows what he’s doing and wouldn’t muck with that. I am convinced that the root of all of this was that FV relay under the passenger seat. 3 year only CIS cars and perhaps he wasn’t thinking. Who knows. The car sat for 6+ months outside. Probably the longest time its ever been outside.

This is from the Bentley manual. I think this is the throttle plate adjustment. Looks like it would be very difficult to mess with. I’ll check it as soon as I can. Taking a break so it might be tomorrow morning.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1730581204.jpg

My throttle linkage doesn’t look anything like the photo. I think this is it though. No sign of paint on it that I can see. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1730582884.jpg

This is a wider angle view. Red arrow pointing at the throttle adjust screw. Is that it?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1730583095.jpg

Look at the threads - it looks like there are a few clean threads exposed doesn’t it?

Yes that is the throttle stop screw. But more threads on the bottom would mean the flap is closed more than it was from the factory position. With the same idle screw position (the big one on the side) the idle would be lower. Yours is higher. I can tell you from my unfortunate experience there is no good reason to change that setting in a stock CIS street car. May want to send those pictures to your shop and ask about it.

I did send the photos to the shop. He did not adjust that.

So, a question. If fuel pressures are all in spec and CO is now close, and the dizzy is nee and working, is such a high idle due to too much air? As in there might be an Ir leak somewhere? Does the engine dying when the oil filler cap support thst?

I believe you said you did a smoke test earlier?