Proper way to torque down oil feeder lines?

[ErrorMargin]

I removed the passenger side oil feeder line to allow me to install a new oil pressure sender.

I now need to reinstall the line and torque it down. After a bit of reading it seems there is no torque spec for the line.

I need to tighten the hollow bolt that goes through the block that holds the oil pressure sender into the engine block. And I need to tighten the oil pressure feeder nuts.

I have new crush washers.

How do I tighten these down? I've read many people do it by feel...I've never done these lines before.

Seat the bolt then a quarter turn? Or?

Please help!

Can I use thread sealant for these fittings? Something like this:

https://www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-high-temperature-thread-sealant-50-ml/

[David Inc.]

Twist until it feels like you've gotten some squish on the washer, then squish some more if it leaks. It's very much a feel thing.

[mike sampsel]

I've never used thread sealer on my 911. Have used some elsewhere though on/near a cammed engine with lots of vibration.

For Porsche I like to tighten the line as snug as I can with a short wrench (6 inch or so). Then more if it leaks, which is not much fun with the line behind the Dizzy as it needs to be removed to get to that line.

[ErrorMargin]

Originally Posted by mike sampsel

I've never used thread sealer on my 911.

Why no thread sealer on these 911 oil lines?

Given the difficulty of tightening them with the engine in the car, it seems like thread sealer should be used every time.

[mike sampsel]

If you have a a line which leaks after you tighten it down, a thread sealer might save your leak. I've never needed any on my 911 though. I gets messy when removed too. No mentions for thread sealer in any of the books on 911 I've seen.

I do use some thread sealer on the temp sensor attachment on my Datsun head though, It's a bit tricky to tighten as it's a non stock sender. It's a steel nut to aluminum head too.

Whatever

[PeteKz]

Agree with David--tighten it enough so it doesn't leak, then just a little bit more. DO NOT be ham-handed!

Re why no thread sealant: These connections are not sealed at the threads. Only pipe thread works that way. Instead they rely on a crushable washer of copper or aluminum. Surfaces must be flat and clean, and washer must not have been over-crushed. Yes, you can reuse them several times.

[ErrorMargin]

Originally Posted by PeteKz

Agree with David--tighten it enough so it doesn't leak...

This is the question. I get the idea not to crank on it hard...but how much is enough so it does not leak? This is the question.

[David Inc.]

Originally Posted by ErrorMargin

This is the question. I get the idea not to crank on it hard...but how much is enough so it does not leak? This is the question.

How much is enough so it doesn't leak? Enough.

Edit: That's a little cheeky, but it really is a feel thing. You'll feel the washer start to give and snug up, and then if you run it and it leaks you can tighten it up some more. I had a bad leak one time that was just a matter of snugging up, no big deal.

[gled49]

Any sealer used that escaped, could plug a spray bar hole, not a good thing.

[47silver]

8mm banjo fitting: 10 Nm (89 in lbs) "Tighten more if leaks"
ferrule type fittings: hand tighten then turn them a 1/4 turn.. if it leaks turn it another quarter turn ..you do not want to over tighten them. Mark the nut at 12 oclock so you lknow where you are to begin with.

[ErrorMargin]

Originally Posted by 47silver

8mm banjo fitting: 10 Nm (89 in lbs) "Tighten more if leaks"
ferrule type fittings: hand tighten then turn them a 1/4 turn.. if it leaks turn it another quarter turn ..you do not want to over tighten them. Mark the nut at 12 oclock so you lknow where you are to begin with.

Thanks!!