What’s the secret to installing new washer nozzles?
 

Removed fresh air ventilation system to gain access but no amount of pushing, pulling or lube will seat the replacement washer nozzles on my 1971 911T Targa. What’s the secret to installing these?

Appreciate any and all suggestions.

Clearly doing something wrong. Brand new nozzle from our host self- destructed while I was pulling from below.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735416296.jpg

Please post when you figure it out… it’s on my to do list and I always seem to have all fhe problems.

in the picture that you're showing nothing has been destroyed as much as it has just been pulled apart. nothing is broken.
you can pull out the other chrome spray tip which is still in the nozzle and install the disassembled nozzle into the cowl.
instead of trying to pull it in from underneath you can try plying it into place from the top by getting half of it in (one side of the spread) and then try putting pressure on it with your hands by rotating it and squeezing it at the same time while coaxing in the other side of the spread. if you have to use a tool at this point to give the nozzle a little more incentive then protect your cowl. a hard plastic tool might be better than a screwdriver if you need to use something other than your hands.
like similar tight situations lubricant helps. try a silicone spray of your choice on the nozzle base before beginning.
after it's in place, and you haven't scratched your cowl, you can then assemble the nozzle.
the spray tips can be aimed by using a needle.

If your car has been repainted, those holes will be smaller because of the paint. There may also be a "drip rim" on the underside of the cowl. Scrape away the excess paint. That's what I had to do first, and it was still a PITA.

Yep, PITA. Suggestions above all help, especially if car was painted. I found that leaving in warm to hot water for a bit before installing helped as well.

Two suggestions, prior to install use long nose pliers to squeeze and exercise the underside holding prongs so they become a little more flexible and a slight smear of silicone grease. Rob

What may not be visible in the photo is the rubber nozzle itself ripped about halfway down. It's a good sized hole and this nozzle is no longer usable.

I've tried a few types of lube, soaking in hot water, and pre-squeezing the rubber tabs. No paint build-up or other visible issues with the original holes in the cowl.

When the replacement parts arrive I'll give it another attempt but at the moment I don't have much faith and long for the drop-in and thread-on a nut variety of washer nozzles found in some other vintage rides :)

I just did this on reassembly of a car that just came out of paint. Squeezing the tabs a few times with a pair of needle nose pliers help tremendously. At first I couldn't get them in, but after a few squeezed they popped in pretty easily.

it's too bad about the split rubber but maybe you can use the broken part to practise an assembly approach that will work for you.
i still recommend taking the chrome cap off before starting.

don't pull! the correct way to install them without making damage is to lubricate with soap and simply push foro the outside. if needed twist to te left or right until fully seated.

New parts arrived and I was able to install the nozzles. In case anyone needs help, this is what worked for me.

1. Parts
BAD PART:
Porsche Windshield Washer Nozzle (Silver with Check Valve) SWF - Valeo 914-628-203-10
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/91462820310.htm?pn=914-628-203-10-M78&bc=c&SVSVSI=4236

GOOD PART:
Porsche Windshield Washer Nozzle
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/90162874120.htm?pn=901-628-741-20-INT&bc=c&SVSVSI=4236

Even though Pelican states these are form the same supplier they are NOT the same part. The metal finishes are different as is the softness of the rubber. Maybe I received a bad batch but for me the difference between the two was night and day.


2. Boiling hot water
Remove the metal cap and use a small pick to remove the ball-jets from the nozzle and drop the rubber piece into BOILING hot water. Allow to soak for 5 mins while squeezing the part that gets pushed through the hole with forceps or needle nose pliers.

3. Lube
Pre-lube the hole in cowl with silicone based lube.
Remove the rubber part from the hot water and immediately spray with silicone based lube.

4. Push don't pull
Quickly drop the rubber nozzle into the hole in cowl and PUSH from above using fingers or thumbs to push in the center of the nozzle "dome". You may need to twist the nozzle back and forth. At this point it should EASILY pop-in and seal. If it does not repeat steps 2-4.

Open hood and inspect from beneath. GENTLY pull the nozzle from side-to-side to visually confirm the nozzle is fully seated and locked in place

5. Reassemble
use a small pick to insert the ball-jets and reinstall the metal cap. WAIT a while for the rubber to cool and dry to ensure the nozzle is fully seated and will not easily push out before attempting to insert the hose with check-valve from below.

FYI: I had fought the previous parts for DAYS using heat and lube to no avail, the new parts dropped in on the FIRST ATTEMPT. If you are struggling with this project the parts may be one reason.

glad you solved!

Heat them up 1st in “boiling” water… then pull them into place when they are uber soft.