Verify Quickjack SC lift points

[GenX Porsche]

So I have scoured the webs to get a final answer on the recommended lift points for a Quickjack, even the pelican technical article. I came across the standard recommended jack point image but still feel a bit vague and figure this is an item you want to make sure is done right so I decided to reach out to the community. Are these acceptable jacks points where I could leave the car for weeks on end?

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[Mark Salvetti]

I would rather have the rubber blocks on the pinch welds. On my SC, the Quickjack frames are inboard of the tires. Also, make sure you have the Quickjack set up with the hoses pointing forward.

Check out this thread: Alternate front inboard lift point

Mark

[OldSpool87]

Like Mark says, pinch welds. I also get nervous with the Jenga style stack of pads/pucks you have going on there. Can you limit it to one rubber block?

Also, in the front I use the pinch weld that's on an angle inboard (see thread Mark Posted) and just adjust the block diagonally. I don't have AC so those lines aren't an issue.

Will

[martyjr]

I use the same jack points indicated by the link Mark posted, on the pinch weld. The rear is acceptable. Note; I cut grooves on the hockey pucks that mimic the pinch weld outline and it cradles the pinch really secured. Works great. Good luck.

[Mark Salvetti]

I don't use the stacked blocks either, in my case mostly because my driveway is sloped, so if I'm using the QJ on one of the other cars out there, the stacked blocks lean due to the slope.

To get added height (especially to lift our SUVs) I screwed together two 2x12 wooden planks and I use those under the QJ. That gives me an extra 3 inches or so without worrying about the stability of stacked blocks/pucks.

Mark

[Bill Verburg]

You're fine on the pictured spots

If you lift on the pinch weld you should have slotted blocks

[LeftCoastErik]

I use mine like Mark noted. the included blocks are fine, they are soft enough for the pinch weld to sink in a bit and remain stable. Slide the QJ just inside the tires front and rear, angle the block to match the pinch weld where it runs from the rocker inboard and you are good to go

[Bill Douglas]

Those are the locations I use on my SC. Also a thing to remember is the car is lifted by four points at the same time so very little pressure on each point.

I wouldn't put a (single point of contact) trolley jack under one corner to lift that wheel off the ground.

[GenX Porsche]

Thanks for the quick responses. For future reference I am using the the Quickjack with the lines going out the front of the car as suggested by Mark. It sounds like I could use the current position however I have also ordered a set of pinch weld blocks on Amazon that will be here for weekend wrenching. Also I do have the ac lines in there but they are not long for this world as I have already pulled the the ac stuff from the engine and interior. Upwards we go to get those pesky fuel lines out of the car and lower my ridiculously high seat rails.

[adias]

Originally Posted by GenX Porsche

...

Are those spots safe, both structurally and from a balance perspective? namely in the rear ledge under the torsion bar and the flat spot (near a vertical ridge) in the front. If so, those seem to be the easiest places to use with a 5000SLX. I would not use a stack of blocks though, just one.

Bill Verburg seems fine with those spots and that is reassuring...

[tirwin]

The spot below the torsion bar tube should be fine — it is structurally sound.

I’m not super crazy about putting the weight on the floor pan in the bottom picture. It looks like the picture is the front left corner of the floor pan. I would use an 8mm socket and take off those A/C line brackets. Pull the hose back and use a hockey puck or block with a split in it and place it right on the pinch seam. It takes two minutes.

[Jack Stands]

Finding good spots on the pinch welds without crushing oil or AC lines seems to be a challenge. My simple 914-6 makes it much easier to find appropriate lifting points on my scissor lift.

[tirwin]

Maybe an alternative would be to get a small piece of plywood and put that in between the floor pan and the pad? Maybe 12x12 or 18x18? 1/2” or 3/4” thick? I’ve never tried it so just spitballing the idea.

[toddetch]

I read this thread and the "alternate inboard front lift point" thread referenced above by Mark. Out of an overabundance of caution, I took a couple of pictures from a little bit further away for reference to check with you all. Are these the correct lift points? And can I place them anywhere along those seam welds in order to get the Quickjack frames lined up properly? Thanks!

Front:


Back:


Also, to follow up on Mark's comment about having the hoses face forward, for our cars with the engine in the back, we effectively have to use the Quickjack opposite cars with the engine in the front - that is the reason for that, correct? Again, overabundance of caution - typical operation of the Quickjack has the stickers on the front of the car and the hoses coming out of the back, but we are doing the opposite. What is identified as the left frame actually becomes our right frame. Correct?

Thanks to all!

[AlKidd]

Toddtech. Yes to all your questions. The jacks work in the "normal" direction because we arent near max load but why not take advantage of mechanical advantage. I have the 7000SLX and it makes contact with the rear tire when down and front tire when up as points of reference.

[Dr J]

I use those exact same jack points with my scissor lift and have done so many times with no issues. I do have AC so the front pinch welds are not an option for me.

[Matt S]

I’m sure lots of people never have this problem, but my rear pinch weld cut through a standard Quickjack block, not long after I bought it.



I’d hate to think what would happen if the block failed while you’re under the car, so I recommend buying their pinch weld blocks.

Other than that, I agree with hoses forward, and start with the Jack touching the rear wheels (or very close) so that it clears the front wheels while lifting.

[Ken Mikos]

Very useful information, thanks for the detailed clarifications.

[PeteKz]

I’ve tried a lot of different things and locations over many years. The blocks with the slots that go around the pinch weld are the best solution. Just buy them and then get your money’s worth out of ‘em. DON’T lift on the floor board! Yes, you can get away with it at the front corner of the floor board because the majority of the cars weight is at the back, but eventually you’ll bend something. Just get the blocks and do it right and safely.

[cwrega]

Resurrecting an old thread.

In order to straddle the pinch weld on the diagonal, I have a hose (or fuel line?) in the way. Do others have this as well? Do you remove the clamps and move the hose aside?