Random oil leaks! Should I be worried?

[911TT33]

So I’ve noticed I have a leak under my oil tank and also around some random nuts on the engine.

Should these be concerning? Or do I simply re-torque those nuts? 🙄

Oil Tank (possibly a hairline crack)


Right lower valve cover nut


Crankcase


Another crankcase nut


I also noticed THIS:

[Dpmulvan]

I would lose sleep over all that, but that’s just me. Try replacing washers add some sealant if necessary. Oil tank will only get worse over time have it fixed or replace. I would replace that cv joint as well.

[MrBonus]

The CV joint boot would concern me. The rest would not. After four years in a mag case car, if I worried about a drip or two of oil, I'd never sleep.

[bbturbo]

These leaks aren't detrimental, just annoying. I had the exact same issues and fixed them when it was convenient/servicing. Throw some cardboard under the engine and get to it when you get to it.

[911 Rod]

Nice and clean!
Just keep cleaning.
Change the boot though.

[Aztim]

Oil tank might be from the sender seal, easy peasy

Cv boot for sure, if it hasn't many miles with a torn boot I'd rather clean and reassemble an og joint in good condition with a boot replacement

[Schulisco]

Engine looks pretty clean. Let me guessing. Fresh overhauled engine? Or at least cleaned engine but not overhauled yet? And now filled a synthetic oil, supposingly 10W60?

Oil tank goes bad due to corrosion. Can be fixed relatively easy as others already wrote, by removing it from the car alone without tearing out the engine. Are there more leaks on the engine?

Thomas

[Magyar Kiwi]

Comments:
The torn CV boot needs replacing, this would include cleaning and new grease for the CV joint.
Suspect that the weeping adjacent to the oil tank drain plug is spilt oil from the last time it was drained that wicked up into the seam.
Suggest that you clean off all the oil leaks with solvent and monitor.
Cheers

[911TT33]

Originally Posted by Schulisco

Engine looks pretty clean. Let me guessing. Fresh overhauled engine? Or at least cleaned engine but not overhauled yet? And now filled a synthetic oil, supposingly 10W60?

Oil tank goes bad due to corrosion. Can be fixed relatively easy as others already wrote, by removing it from the car alone without tearing out the engine. Are there more leaks on the engine?

Thomas

Yeah, cleaned the engine whilst I was working on the twin turbo conversion.

Car came back from the exhaust fabricator yesterday and last night whilst inspecting the undercarriage, I noticed all those leaky bits.

I guess I’ll tighten the nuts and get that tank cleaned out and welded along that bottom seam.

And yes, I’ve filled it up with 10W60 oil. 😁👍🏼

[911TT33]

Originally Posted by Aztim

Oil tank might be from the sender seal, easy peasy

Cv boot for sure, if it hasn't many miles with a torn boot I'd rather clean and reassemble an og joint in good condition with a boot replacement

It’s definitely seeping from that seam underneath and not the sender. I wiped it clean last night, and this morning I can see the oil seeping out from it again, with a small puddle on the floor. 🙄

I wonder if I can just use some JB Weld along that seem to seal it up for now?

[Schulisco]

Originally Posted by 911TT33

And yes, I’ve filled it up with 10W60 oil. ������

Please read this recent thread, we had a discussion on that. I wrote sth why I suppose that 911 elder engines with either no or decades ago overhaul may start leaking with synthetic oils...
Keyword seal /elastomer swellers

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1173217-10w60-synthetic-oil.html

Thomas

[Ian Comerford]

Originally Posted by 911TT33

It’s definitely seeping from that seam underneath and not the sender. I wiped it clean last night, and this morning I can see the oil seeping out from it again, with a small puddle on the floor. 🙄

I wonder if I can just use some JB Weld along that seem to seal it up for now?

I would probably try soft solder or brazing rather than JB Weld

[911TT33]

Originally Posted by Ian Comerford

I would probably try soft solder or brazing rather than JB Weld

Right OK… I’ll look into it. Cheers….

[Schulisco]

Twin Turbo conversion with all that stuff amd them sealing leaks with JB weld??? Really??? I gotta out here...

[pmax]

Originally Posted by Schulisco

Twin Turbo conversion with all that stuff amd them sealing leaks with JB weld??? Really??? I gotta out here...

"Glue" works fine for non-pressurized leaks.

[911TT33]

Originally Posted by Schulisco

Twin Turbo conversion with all that stuff amd them sealing leaks with JB weld??? Really??? I gotta out here...

It’s a hairline crack along the seam. I was just THINKING would JB Weld be a quick fix until I can rip it out and get it welded up.

“ExtremeHeat™ is formulated to allow for repairs to iron, steel and metal in high temperature environments (1000°F / 537°C). When fully cured, this metallic compound can be drilled, machined or sanded. It is great for repairing cracks, small gaps, seam connections or holes in exhaust manifolds, pipe connections, mufflers, catalytic converters, outdoor grills, fire boxes, gas and commercial furnaces and water heaters. This product is water based, non-flammable and contains no solvents or Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs).

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[pmax]

Originally Posted by 911TT33

It’s a hairline crack along the seam. I was just THINKING would JB Weld be a quick fix until I can rip it out and get it welded up.

“ExtremeHeat™ is formulated to allow for repairs to iron, steel and metal in high temperature environments (1000°F / 537°C). When fully cured, this metallic
...

If your oil tank gets that hot, you have bigger problems.

The standard JB weld stuff is fine.

Having said that, if the leak's due to rust, I would replace it.

[H-viken]

Valve covers - make sure you have the right aluminum washers so they seal properly

Oil tank- empty the oil and stick in a finger to feel the seam from the inside. You can generally feel if there’s rust there or not