Dansk New Control Arms?

[Missed Approach]

Question- has anyone purchased/installed the new Dansk Control Arms from our host? Seems like a bargain compared to OEM. I've been pleased with the other Dansk products purchased.

[sc_rufctr]

I generally try for OEM but being what they are they would be a safe option.

[Missed Approach]

[m1franck]

I just received a new pair of Dansk control arms for the car I'm putting together. I thoroughly looked them over last night and they are identical to factory A arms. I'll be removing the factory rubber bushings and installing Rebel Racing semi-solid mounts and Elephant Racing offset ball joints. As you said the price on the A arms is very compelling.

Resurrecting Pearl; a tale of “Restomodration”

[Missed Approach]

Thanks m1franck! Love the resurrection of Pearl link as well!

[m1franck]

I just discovered an issue with the Dansk control arms. As I was tightening the ball joint grooved nut, the small metal tab that properly locates the balljoint broke loose and now the ball joint spins as I try to tighten the ball joint grooved nut. Attached is a photo of the broken part and what it looks like before the tab broke loose. There needs to be another weld on that tab closer to the ball joint for it to stay in place as you tighten the grooved nut.

[Missed Approach]

Whoa! What's your thought on a fix? (Thanks for posting an update!)

[Canada Kev]

Would just an additional spot weld further down be sufficient, do you think?

[m1franck]

Removing the ball joint from the A arm wasn't as difficult as I though it would be. Used a pair of large vice grips to hold the ball joint as I loosened the grooved nut. I put a small weld on each side of the ball joint securing tab and reinstalled the ball joints.

[Missed Approach]

Please feel free to give any updates post-install! Thanks for the great photos!

[Missed Approach]

Hi All- Just rechecking- Spring is supposed to arrive in Minnesota within the next 60-120 days, and I am considering making the switch before the warm weather begins (and then ends 7-12 days later). Any additional reviews on the Dansk Arms? (Again, they do seem like a great bargain- want to see if there are any more real world experiences)

[Ian Comerford]

As with the Porsche ones it’s worth putting some cavity protection into the arms to prevent or reduce the chances of rusting from within.

[suckho]

Originally Posted by m1franck

As I was tightening the ball joint grooved nut, the small metal tab that properly locates the balljoint broke loose and now the ball joint spins as I try to tighten the ball joint grooved nut.

Exactly same here. On both sides.

First I tightened both to 135 Nm (~100 FtLbs) with my torque wrench and then to some more.. The right side arm broke somewhere after 135 Nm, but the left side I managed to tighten to 210 Nm (~155 FtLbs, maximum torque that my wrench gives). I already thought it is fine, but when I checked it from the other side I noticed that the tab was in 45 degs angle and the ball joint had already rotated.

Has anyone managed to tighten these Dansk control arms to factory spec torque (250 Nm or 184 FtLbs)?

It seems Dansk quality is not very high these days..

[Wasatch 911S]

I just tried to install a new set of Dansk front control arm and suffered the same fate as mentioned earlier. See the photos.

One side ball joint tab failed at about 120 ft-lbs and the other a little higher at about 140 ft-lbs. I am working with the vendor for a replacement arms, but am not optimistic that the replacement ones will work any better.

I hate to spend the money for the Porsche ones, especially if they are also poorly made. Has anyone had better luck with the Porsche version or can you suggest where else to look for new control arms?

[Jeff Alton]

We have had good luck with them. Installing them shortly again in our 69 resto project and will report any issues if they arise.

Cheers

[Missed Approach]

Whoa- this goes back a bit! Thanks for your feedback Jeff and Wasatch 911S, as I realize I never gave closure from my end. On 18 May 2018 at 133,089 miles (now at 167K) I replaced the original control arms with the Dansk pieces from our host. I had been battling an infernal squeak for years, and the Dansk pieces finally solved the issue! I've been very pleased with the quality and did not experience any ball joint spinning during installation.

[Wasatch 911S]

Originally Posted by Jeff Alton

We have had good luck with them. Installing them shortly again in our 69 resto project and will report any issues if they arise.

Cheers

Thanks for the info. So were you able to achieve the full 180 ft-lbs of torque on the ball joint nut? Maybe the ones I received were from a batch with bad welds.

Please let us know how the install in the '69 goes.

[PopsRacer]

fwiw I used the Dansk replacement arms to rebuild my front suspension and had no issues with the balljoint fit or with applying the full torque to the castle nut. I did fork over the $ for the proper socket (after trying the Peugot one - which was fine to remove the old one) I used a jack to stabilize the torque wrench, normal stuff.

[Wasatch 911S]

Originally Posted by PopsRacer

fwiw I used the Dansk replacement arms to rebuild my front suspension and had no issues with the balljoint fit or with applying the full torque to the castle nut. I did fork over the $ for the proper socket (after trying the Peugot one - which was fine to remove the old one) I used a jack to stabilize the torque wrench, normal stuff.

That is good to know. I am wondering if you need to have the ball joint in the strut with the wedge pin installed before applying the full torque? I did not when the tabs bent, but maybe with the struts in place some of the retaining force on the control arm tab is reduced?

I sent my broken control arms back and am waiting for them to warranty the items. I will provide an update when I try this again.

[PopsRacer]

I don’t the answer, but thats a good Q. I checked my own pics and I installed the new ball joint into the strut first, did the locating pin, and then brought the A-arm up to meet it & bolted it in place, got the ball joint seated and then put on the castle nut.