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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 6,950
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I am pretty sure I have a bad starter. Symptons are no engine turnover when the ignition is keyed. But, it does eventually start when the key is turned over 6-12 times. Yesterday, I drove it all day and it started every time. This morning, it started right up. I restarted it a few times until it would not turnover with the ignition. After several rekeyings, it then started again. I have heard about these symptoms before and I just want to check against any other faults before replacing. I already have a high torque one to install. Any tips on doing these on a G50 3.2? The car has 67K. Oh yeah, and my sunroof won't open. I recently had the car in shop chasing a bad electrical connection, (distributer cap had a short). I guess bad things really do happen in three's
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 4,612
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try jump starting the car. Maybe the battery is on it's way out.
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Neil '73 911S targa |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: St Petersburg, FL
Posts: 3,814
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Make sure that your terminals are clean and tight too.
I have seen this happen a lot when the corrosion between the terminal and connector allows enough current to pass for accessories and the such, but is hit and miss on passing the full cranking amps. If all of your wiring is good then your starter is probably on its way out. |
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 6,950
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Quote:
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Back in the saddle again
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Central TX west of Houston
Posts: 56,256
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On the times that it doesn't start does it turn over some, or nothing. It could be the ignition switch, or it could be the starter if the unsuccessful key turns don't result in anything happening.
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa SOLD 2004 - gone but not forgotten
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 6,950
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Thats what I'm trying to rule out. When it doesn't turn over, you can hear power going to the car and accessories (fuel pump, lights, etc.) and there is a clicking. The only odd thing is why it eventually starts after turning the key so many times. I thought once a starter was bad and you hit a "dead spot" on the solenoid, you could'nt get it to turn over. Thanks for the help so far.
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On a great circle route
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: recalculating...
Posts: 680
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Last September I had an intermittent starting problem with similar symptoms. I had power to the dash lights, but the starter would not engage. The first time happened after driving for several hours, then stopping for fuel. We got started by rolling the car and popping the clutch. We had to do this for several days. Each time we would try the starter, then resort to the rolling start. Then it began working again and worked normally for several days. Then once again it would not crank after a long drive and a stop for fuel. The problem was the battery negative cable. The terminal connection itself was clean but the cable strands were corroded. This can be hard to see with a casual glance, but I had removed the cable to check for a clean connection where the cable attaches to the body. When I got it out of the car and into the light it looked like a piece of green rope. Each individual strand allowed light current to pass, but the corrosion prevented the strands from working together to pass the heavy current required to close the solinoid and turn the starter. The resistance of running current through a corroded connection caused heat which caused more resistance. After cleaning and reinstalling the cable, the car started perfectly and has not been a problem since.
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Russ |
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RETIRED
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Ignition switch may be the culprit.....
BUT, next time it does not start...take a BFH and smack the starter. If that does not do it, try jumping the leads with a WELL insulated screwdriver. Temporary bandaid to get it started but can save you being stranded.
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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