Just another 970 911 hot rod thread

[inastrangeland]

I figured this would be a good time to document my car and the updates to it.

For starters, I bought the car 1.5 years ago. It's a 1970 911T that has been heavily modified. It has all S parts from a 1973 911S including MFI, struts, brakes, front bumper, etc.

The engine is a 7R case with 92mm LN cylinders and Mahle pistons (2.8l). The entire engine was gone through about 1k miles ago by Eisenbuds here in Denver. The heads are stock S heads with twin plug modifications. The compression is 10.5:1 with Web Cams 120/104. It's running an old clewett wasted spark setup.

On the dyno the engine, running through the stock headers, put down 209rwhp and 185ft lbs of torque. The AF ratio is very rich from 10.2 to 12.5:1.

The trans is a 901 dogleg that has close ratio gears but no LSD.

It has carerra rear flares and stock fenders, H4 headlights, lowered, with turbo tie rods and upgraded sway bars and torsion bars. Koni's are installed front and rear.

The car was painted viper green and the original color is Conda green.

I have some things I need to fix and also some upgrades I need to make so I am documenting it here for posterity...

Some pictures follow:

[inastrangeland]

First issue was the seats. I'm not a fan of the fixed buckets. So, they came out and my Recaro SRDs went in. I also pulled out the racing harnesses and installed stock seat belts with shoulder straps.

[inastrangeland]

Next, the stock shifter had to go. It is way too loose and hitting reverse was a common occurrence with the dogleg. Previous owner also had issues as reverse was replaced when they rebuilt the engine and trans.

So I installed a Numeric shifter. I'm very happy with the results. The lockout works very well and gear shifts are firm so you know it is in gear. The other nice part is I can just move the lockout and use it with a 915 trans which will be a future upgrade.

[inastrangeland]

The next change was going from the 350mm Prototipo to the 370mm version. I'm ok with the quality of the wheel...

[inastrangeland]

Next up is stripping the insulation, some Dynamat, and then RS carpet kit. I highly recommend that any car that is as old as these air cooled 911s should get the insulation removed so you can see if there is any rust there. This car, fortunately has been well taken care of and most any rust is surface rust. But, when I removed the rear seat insulation,



I found this...

[inastrangeland]

So now I'm in the process of removing all the insulation using the tips from others here in the forum. Next will be Dynamat is some areas and then carpet install.

Just as a reference, with the a 1/2 tank of gas my car weighed 2200lbs.

[911obgyn]

Noice!

[inastrangeland]

I tried several methods to remove the floor insulation. The heat gun works the best for me.

[inastrangeland]

Cleaning up the bulkhead is a real pain. Lots of wire brushing and citrus paint remover. Getting close to the end now and paint comes next. Had to hammer the floor a bit where people jacked it up in the wrong place.

[Fab64]

Nice job cleaning the floors, especially the rear seat area! Looking good.

[PeteKz]

Your rear seat area is in excellent shape. My 73 had rust in the buckets from a leaking rear window seal (fortunatly not perforated). If you haven't replaced the rear seal yet, do it soon.

[inastrangeland]

Originally Posted by PeteKz

Your rear seat area is in excellent shape. My 73 had rust in the buckets from a leaking rear window seal (fortunatly not perforated). If you haven't replaced the rear seal yet, do it soon.

I checked around the rear window and it sppears it was repalced by the PO but they never checked under the seat insulation.

[inastrangeland]

Back at it again and found some more rust under the door seal. I have a friend that will weld it up.. the seals had a lot of silicon sealer where it was probably leaking.

[inastrangeland]

And it appears this had bondo over the rust from a previous repair.

[Jonny H]

In the UK ( wet / mud / salt) a hole near the door seal is a sure sign that the kidney bowl and cill (rocker) are severely rusted.

Don't just 'weld it up', investigate further. See here:

Talk me through rust repair....Please

[inastrangeland]

Originally Posted by Jonny H

In the UK ( wet / mud / salt) a hole near the door seal is a sure sign that the kidney bowl and cill (rocker) are severely rusted.

Don't just 'weld it up', investigate further. See here:

Talk me through rust repair....Please

Thanks for the tip. I found a bit more rust that was bondoed over on the drivers side. The PO cut a hole in the outer rocker to install lap belts so i can use a scope and look to see if there is further rust issues.

I have plans to do body work in the future and a repaint to the stock Conda Green color so what i do now is a temporary measure.

[nospiners]

Rust issues so disheartening , still , great job so far !!!

[inastrangeland]

Originally Posted by nospiners

Rust issues so disheartening , still , great job so far !!!

Thanks. I'll be bore scoping the rocker area to see what i need to plan for when I do the body work. Most of the external parts of the car are rust free but it's been 53 years so I'm expecting to find more.

[inastrangeland]

Well, I got this bore scope that attaches to my phone and it works pretty well. Cheap too. Then I checked the passenger side and it looks OK. Then I went to the drivers side. I didn't need a bore scope to see it has issues. But that will have to wait for the paint.

[inastrangeland]

Did some work on the weatherstrip channel. It appears the roght side was repaired some time in the past which is why there is seam sealer built up in the channel. This kept the weatherstrip from stayong in the channel and explains why there was a lot of silicone sealer holding in the weatherstrip. Now i plan to grind down the crappy welds and seal it again after priming it.


Here is a coma-rison between the driver and passenger side.