Rear Bearing Replacement without removing Swingarm on 930 Turbo/Option 491 cars

[greg79s]

Hello. I recently serviced the wheel bearings my 3.2 (Option 491) car. The right inner bearing failed last year and I was successful replacing the inner bearing without removing the swingarm. This project now is the left side where the left inner bearing is being replaced. The tools utilized (these tools kits worked for this project) will be a correct size slide hammer (SPX #6540 and a KD tools #41630 Bearing Race and Seal Kit. I purchased some hardware (5/8 " grade 8 bolt and nut with washers to use bearing race kit as a puller. (3) 14 mm X 1.50 thread pitch nuts with washers were used to attach slide hammer to hub.

[greg79s]

Disconnect brake caliper and move it aside, remove rotor, half shaft, and bolt from hub. Install slide hammer to lugs and install 14 mm X 1.5 bolts and washers. Give it several impacts and it you will notice the assembly slowly extracting from the hub. When the assembly is removed clean it up and set aside.

[greg79s]

Remove inner bearing seal and bearing on swingarm (pry seal out with seal puller. To remove the inner bearing race from the swingarm, the 2.555 dish from the puller kit catches the edge on the race perfectly so it can be pushed out (notice the dish is inverted) Strike with hammer and the race will start moving evenly out.

The emergency brake is being serviced now and some cleaning will be done. The installation on the new bearing, seal and assembly will be posted in part 2. Hope you can use the information.

[WERK I]

Whatever happened to Part 2?

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by WERK I

Whatever happened to Part 2?

He's still trying to remove it!!!!! Just kidding. Like to see the pictures for part #2. This post is very helpful and I have those puller set and never had the chance to use them due to my 10-ton HF press. The information and use of the right tools would be helpful to others to follow. Good post.

Tony

[greg79s]

Bump

[greg79s]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

He's still trying to remove it!!!!! Just kidding. Like to see the pictures for part #2. This post is very helpful and I have those puller set and never had the chance to use them due to my 10-ton HF press. The information and use of the right tools would be helpful to others to follow. Good post.

Tony

This job was done in 2009...everything going well. Track days and long drives. Hope this thread helped.

[Fairview]

Greg, if you are still on the forum, thanks for posting this. I hear a highly suspicious racket in my right rear hub, so I’m tackling this project on this 84 M491.

If anyone else has some helpful hints, I would definitely appreciate them.

Thanks, Jeff

[T77911S]

is this similar to the 930 bearing

[Fairview]

Originally Posted by T77911S

is this similar to the 930 bearing

I’m about to find out! (As soon as I get a 30mm socket and a slide hammer...

[356911930]

From the Turbo / 930 forum we have this well done thread.

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/870784-another-rear-wheel-bearing-replacement-job.html

Best of luck,

Rahl

[T77911S]

lots of heat to get the old one out.
check the 930 forum. there is a good thread over there that has some home made tools.

the trick I found for setting the play of the crush sleeve is basically to angle torque it.
torque it up to about 320. then angle torque it 45 degrees.
loosen it then torque back up to I think it is 220 and check the play. if it has not crushed then repeat above torque to 320. but angle torque 90 degrees . (I marked the nut each time).
then repeat for checking play.
keep repeating the above and increasing the angle until it starts to crush the sleeve.

that was what gave me a hard time, determining when the sleeve was crushing,
once I figured out this procedure the other side went very fast.

[Fairview]

Originally Posted by T77911S

lots of heat to get the old one out.
check the 930 forum. there is a good thread over there that has some home made tools.

the trick I found for setting the play of the crush sleeve is basically to angle torque it.
torque it up to about 320. then angle torque it 45 degrees.
loosen it then torque back up to I think it is 220 and check the play. if it has not crushed then repeat above torque to 320. but angle torque 90 degrees . (I marked the nut each time).
then repeat for checking play.
keep repeating the above and increasing the angle until it starts to crush the sleeve.

that was what gave me a hard time, determining when the sleeve was crushing,
once I figured out this procedure the other side went very fast.

I'm not sure what you mean by angle torque?

[WERK I]

Originally Posted by Fairview

I'm not sure what you mean by angle torque?

Tighten an additional xx degrees.

[T77911S]

toque it to 320
then turn it another 45 degrees.
then check the play
torque it again to 320
then turn it 90 degrees if you need to
keep increasing the angle or number of degrees of additional torque until the crush sleeve crushes.

my problem was was trying to figure when the crush sleeve started to crush.

[Fairview]

Originally Posted by T77911S

toque it to 320
then turn it another 45 degrees.
then check the play
torque it again to 320
then turn it 90 degrees if you need to
keep increasing the angle or number of degrees of additional torque until the crush sleeve crushes.

my problem was was trying to figure when the crush sleeve started to crush.

Thanks for the help, most appreciated.

Right now, trying to get the hub out. Thing is really stuck and I’ve read some horrifying threads about this. I may pull the engine and reseal, new clutch, etc. Might be easier to wait on this bearing work until after the engine and transmission are out.

While I’ve got you, is this turbo rear wheel bearing design set up so the bearings can’t be cleaned and regreased without all this trauma? The standard Carrera has a sealed bearing so at least those may not need servicing regularly. Maybe I’m looking at this wrong, but it seems a little crazy for the turbo bearings to be so inaccessible to regular maintenance.

[T77911S]

read that thread above,
did you disconnect the parking brake and adjust the shoes down.

you need to pull the engine to do this
you need lots if heat on the inside of the trailing arm to get the race out.
I had 2 propane torches going. I think when we did my brothers we may have had 4.
I did mine by myself.

[Fairview]

Yes, I am going by the procedure in that excellent thread. Parking brake backed off and rotor loose. Hub won’t budge, but I haven’t given up yet..

[Sboxin]

Originally Posted by Fairview

Yes, I am going by the procedure in that excellent thread. Parking brake backed off and rotor loose. Hub won’t budge, but I haven’t given up yet..

Fairview - - this is a photo of how I was able to get a very difficult rear bearing out - - heat on trailing arm bearing housing and extra weights on the puller - and a lot of muscle on the slamming part . . . the bearing was fairly new and I suspect that is why it was difficult to remove . . .

Good Luck,
Regards,
Roy T

[dap930]

Fairview,

You are trying to pull the outer stub shaft out of the inner bearing "inner bearing race", which is an interference fit. You have to keep tension on the slide hammer puller as you strike blows with the slide hammer. You may need someone to assist you if necessary. Or you may need a bigger slide hammer puller. This is only the first step in your journey to wheel bearing replacement. You do not need to remove the engine to do this job.

Grease seals are the weak link in this setup. My rear inner bearing failed because the grease seal failed and dirt got into the bearing.