Where to get windshield and rear window?
 

My 1975 RatRod is almost done after a year of rust repair and paint. I need a new windshield and rear window. Every window in the car has green tint in it, except the windshield, front quarter glass, and rear window. I want to get a new windshield and rear window ASAP to finish this little project off. I don't want a rear defrost window, don't need it.

Anyone have any suggestions other than factory glass? She’s not going to lose value without factory glass IMHO.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750434105.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750434105.jpg

PS - Yes a build thread is coming soon. I just realized I never did a build thread for this car…even though I ahve had it for 10 years. :rolleyes:

I've used Kool Katz Auto glass and recommended them a bunch with positive results. They're only offering one right now (non-tinted Chinese made) but the price is right and their packaging/shipping is very good.

https://koolkatzautoglass.com/collections/windshields/products/copy-of-1965-1984-porsche-911-912-windshield-oem

Thank you Tony, I saw them and yeah, it’s green tint and the price is right. Any clue on a rear window?

I've "consumed" a bunch of windshields on rallies. Rear glass not so much! Maybe toss a WTB ad up and see what's out there

Stoddard has rear glass, green, with 2-stage heater.

Chris, I have a early rear glass without defrost http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750477727.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750477727.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750477727.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750477727.jpg
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750477727.jpg

I confirmed Byron has a clear window and I need a green one without defroster wires.

Call some local glass shops and see what you can find for the windshield. Local shop sold me a Chinese windshield for 230 picked up.

For the rear its best to find a used piece, Porsche was the only one I could find and it was expensive of course.

i have a rear window..used of course

Mike Farrell and autobahn parts supplied my 964 rear window and I know he has supplied a friend the same and a 993 front windshield. mike@autobahnparts.com

Great communication, excellent packaging, etc...

Great recommendations. Thank you! I will follow up here with what I decide etc.

Got one in SoCal too, green with nice wiring.

Reporting back. So I took Shoooo32’s advice to save a few bucks, and had a local glass shop order me a none factory glass. Glass looks great, went in well (but not easy) using a new URO gasket that is wider than the factory ones…..and it leaks. Here are some pics. Thoughts?

Water appears on the metal part of the dashboard in front of the dash pad and defroster vents. It seams to come in the top edges, flow down to the bottom, and then leaks in between the body and the seal. From teh last pic it sure looks like I have the wider URO seal. Not at all blaming the seal. Just want your opinions on the current situation. Thanks.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1754424256.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1754424256.jpg
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I think your aluminum trim piece wasn't fit correctly first. You can try correcting it with a wood shim and a hammer (i used a paint stir stick sanded to the shape of the curve). I had the same problem as you. I got really good at pulling and reinstalling the front glass. 3rd time was the charm
No leaks now. The seal has to cover the complete mounting channel and fit flush with the roof of the car. You can't have any puckering or uncovered spots. It is all about the shape of the trim.

^Yeah that's a pull and try again imho. Tapping with a mallet only really works for very minor trim adjustments.

So to “adjust” the metal trim, should it be shaped like eh edge of teh glass or the edge of the body? I think we shaped it to closely mimic the glass. I could see how that could pull it in towards the glass, and not get a god seal on the body.

The metal trim needs to be shaped in between the glass and metal body- a happy compromise, if you will. Then you can use shims to tap it into place if needed.

It’s finicky and tedious to shape but once you wrap your head around it, it makes sense and goes much faster and is much easier.


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I spent about 3 hours working just on the trim, removed from the seal. In the end, I ended up matching it to the outer most part of the body sealing surface. I think I used some blue painters tape to hold the floppy parts to the car while I focused on the corners. It needs to be correct in all 3 dimensions.

It makes sense to me (now) that adjusting it to the glass pulls the gaskets inward and makes it not fit the body well. I was about to as if getting it much more close to the pinch weld on the body that grabs the gasket would be better, as this would push the gasket out to seal on the body better, especially in teh top corners.