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G50 clutch slave replacement
So, I haven't been driving the car much the last 6 months, have had a lot going on (father passed away, I had an ischemic stroke 4 weeks later etc).
Anyway, thought I'd take it for a spin once I was recovered enough to cheer myself up. The clutch pedal was on the floor, I had to pump it up to get things happening. An ominous sign. After I reversed out of the garage, I noticed a leak on the floor, up under where the pedal assembly would be. So, ordered a clutch master and a slave from our host (the FTE/Valeo set) and put yesterday aside to tackle the job. Jesus... Now, I have a 4-post hoist, so getting under it isn't a problem. The master wasn't as bad as I thought. Managed to spring the clutch return spring, but lucked out aligning it blindly by hand and then being extremely careful not to upset it. However, the slave is a straight PITA. I can't get it off, seems the spaghetti of looped hard lines prevents getting a wrench on the thing and I can't see how to get a socket on it. I did search and there's not much on the forum about it in terms of advice or tips/tricks, has anyone had success with this job?
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1931 Oakland Eight Special Saloon 1985 BMW E28 525e (Euro 528e) 1989 911 Carrera Sport 3.2 G50 Cabriolet |
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Clutch Slave Cylinder Removal……..
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Adam, I just installed a new replacement clutch slave cylinder for my ‘89 Carrera 3.2 Cabriolet last weekend. Just be patience and take your time. Use a 14-mm crow foot flare wrench to get the nut loose for the hydraulic metal line. To get better leverage, I used the flare crow foot wrench with extra long extension and a breaker bar to loosen the stubborn nut. Then remove the two (2) 13-mm nuts that secure the clutch slave cylinder to the transmission housing. Tony |
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Another approach is to do a partial engine drop and go in from the top-back of the engine bay...
Good luck.
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'87 Carrera (3.4L) w/Turbo, full-bay IC; front bumper aux oil cooler, etc. '07 Boxter |
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 116
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Followed a tip from a different thread and used this brass tubing over the studs to line up the slave cylinder onto the studs against the clutch arm pressure. I think I cut them about 1.5" or search for the post with the photos and instructions.
Worked like a charm. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N6WDK?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title _0_0&th=1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hudson, Ohio
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If I remember correctly removing the transmission support crossmember improves access substantially.
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Northeast Ohio 1987 Porsche 911 Targa 1966 VW Beetle, 6V |
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'87 Targa
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: SanFrancisco Peninsula
Posts: 258
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I replaced my clutch slave about 2 years ago. Yes, it's a 120% F!@#$%^ PITA.
I don't recall having a major issue removing the nuts, except small hands helps. But, on reinstall, I had a small turn-buckle on hand, and it helped to get a few threads to start the nuts. Still a PITA, but helped. ![]() and pic from another post that helped avoid an issue bleeding. (I'm sorry I don't recall where I got it, so can't assign credit. But, it is not my pic). The nipple must be the high point when bleeding. ![]() |
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Here is the thread where this picture appeared first.
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/63289-g50-clutch-bleed-update-3.html Bing reverse image search was the only one to find it, Google Lens and others just failed.
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Gilles RoW 88 Carrera coupé |
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I like to have the car just high enough so I can sit on my ass and work. It is a tight squeeze.
Putting a jack stand under the trans cross member, and allowing it to slump 1-2 inches helps. |
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Thanks, guys. Some good tips, I’ll try them all and let you know how I go.
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1931 Oakland Eight Special Saloon 1985 BMW E28 525e (Euro 528e) 1989 911 Carrera Sport 3.2 G50 Cabriolet |
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