Engine Break-In

[Ryan_Cunningham]

I know, there are an egregious amount of threads on the topic, and I've read nearly all of them. I've read Wayne's book three or four times on the process but I'm relatively heavily invested into my 1981 3.6 project and don't want to make any mistakes.

I'm taking off the 16th through the 19th to assist my mechanic with the installation because my other project is on my lift so this topic has been weighing heavily on my mind.

So it appears these are the steps to take per what I can compile (please feel free to critique, add emphasis, or confuse things as you see fit):

1) Fill with Brad Penn Break-In Oil 20W50 (Probably 10-12 qts)
2) Build oil pressure prior to start by disabling the ignition system.
3) Repeat a few times until the oil pressure light goes out for >15"
4) Reconnect ignition and start engine and run at 2,000 rpm for 20 min
5) Change oil with Brad Penn Break-In Oil 20W50.
6) Restart engine, set RPM and drive varying the load as much as possible but remain below 5,000 RPM for three to five miles. Let car sit overnight.
7) Second drive for eight to ten miles doing the same thing.
8) Third drive ten to 20 miles, fourth drive about 50.
9) Continue to drive the car and change oil after 500 miles, and again at 1,000 then you're at a normal interval.

Questions:
1) Reading about and seeing the 996T with over 1,000,000 km running Mobile 1, when is an appropriate time to switch over to synthetic? At 500 miles? What weight?
2) Everyone has read the Mototune article from the early 2000s I'm assuming, wouldn't running the engine at 2,000 RPM on the initial start run counter to that argument? Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
3) Better oil recommendations or changes to the steps I've compiled above?
4) Would it be better to have it broken in on a dyno?

[911MANN]

I will be interested to read what the experts on the forum say. But here are my comments after going through the same process with my mechanic 1.5 years ago:

-Agree with Comments 1-7. But in Comment 6, load that engine pretty heavily, on/off throttle
-Comment 8> After your 20 minute drive, bring her back and get that break-in oil out of the
system. Change oil with your normal running oil (20W50 Dino oil here in FL)
-Then drive 1,000 miles with your running oil in it. Up to 500 miles, only max half-throttle,
varying speed; from 500 to 1,000 miles, only 2/3 throttle. Valves get out of adjustment during
this period.
-At 1,000 miles, change the oil again and adjust the valves.
-Max 5,000RPM until about 1,500 miles. Then OK to redline it.
-I am conservative by nature, and all this sounded good to me. BIG investment here, which is
expected to last and last many happy years and hopefully never come apart again in my
lifetime.

My mechanic of 50 years direct hands-on Porsche experience recommended no synthetic for
3K-5K miles. Interested to hear what the other true experts say.

[H-viken]

The other school of thought is to run it hard from the get go to make sure the rings seat properly

[Bill Douglas]

Originally Posted by H-viken

The other school of thought is to run it hard from the get go to make sure the rings seat properly

I'm not an expert, but this is what I also understood the process to be. A few people have said if the rings aren't bedded in, in the first 20 minutes they never will be.

My own thoughts are it's important to do some deceleration to wear in "the other sides of the rings". Something like a steep downhill.

[stownsen914]

You don't mention whether you have a new/reground cam or rockers. The 20 minutes at 2000 RPM thing is to break in the cam. You've got a competing priority in breaking in the rings, which many will tell you will break in more effectively by just getting on it once you are satisfied the engine is running OK, no leaks, etc.

[911MANN]

Boys.....Perhaps I wasn't clear enough in my reply....Comment No.6- Load that engine heavily during this period to seat the rings, etc. Perhaps I should say "HEAVILY". My mechanic actually did this part of the break-in, and I did not witness it.

Do it again in Comment No.7. LOAD THAT B**CH during this period. Don't be scared.

After that 20 minute drive, change break-in oil with running oil and follow the rest of the procedure, keeping revs below 5000, part throttle (yes, you can blast it up to part throttle before easing off), and vary your revs.

I actually changed the initial fill of running oil & filter with fresh running oil & filter at 500 miles, but my mechanic said really not necessary. I like conservative, as I had said. Tell us what happens.

[fallingat120mph]

Originally Posted by Bill Douglas

My own thoughts are it's important to do some deceleration to wear in "the other sides of the rings". Something like a steep downhill.

This has come up repeatedly in my calls and advice.

Originally Posted by 911MANN

Boys.....Perhaps I wasn't clear enough in my reply....Comment No.6- Load that engine heavily during this period to seat the rings, etc. Perhaps I should say "HEAVILY". My mechanic actually did this part of the break-in, and I did not witness it.

Do it again in Comment No.7. LOAD THAT B**CH during this period. Don't be scared.

...and this is also advice I have gotten.


I will be breaking in my 3.4 build in the coming weeks so interested in the advice, do's and don'ts...

All I know is my cars (and motorcycles) that were 'broken in' in Germany after engine work run like champs driving on the very hilly back roads and of course the autobahn for most of their early break ins. I was mindful, but also aggressive per the German mechanics, etc...Bringing three vehicles back to the US, now some 5 years ago, the mechanics here are pretty impressed with the output and performance on my older cars...when I say mountain passes and the autobahn broke them in, they have all nodded in agreement.


Subscribing to the thread and hope you get more information...

Erik

[911MANN]

Good catch, STownsen.


Yes, Comments No.6, 7, 8- I think you want to load the engine going uphill and full engine braking downhill during this early period of break-in. Hopefully, the experts can tell you how long to do this, beyond the 20-min drive noted in Comment 8. I did it routinely for first 500 miles and a bit less frequently up to the 1,000 mile mark. But my understanding was a bit vague on this part. I had read the rings should have seated pretty early in the process (like after the 20 mile drive hard on and hard off throttle), but I wanted to be on the safe side.

[AG81]

Originally Posted by H-viken

The other school of thought is to run it hard from the get go to make sure the rings seat properly

^
This is what I was instructed to do and did so. I figured if an expert engine builder with 50+ years under his belt say so, good enough for me.

[Ryan_Cunningham]

I spoke to Emile' at EP9 this morning and asked for his guidance. He instructed me to run the engine for 10-15 minutes with Brad Penn 20W50 Break-In oil. Shut it down, and then take it easy for the next 1,000 miles putting in whatever 20W50 (conventional or synthetic) that I desire.

I'll probably follow that relatively closely while doing an additional oil change at 500 miles but ensuring I'm varrying the load as much as possible.

[scarceller]

Can't comment on breakin but not all Mobile1 oils have correct high level of zinc and phosphorous for the mechanical rockers.
I use only the Mobile1 15W/50 that is designed for use in mechanical rockers.
Here's the official Mobile1 oil chart, locate the row for the 15/50 you will also see more expensive race oil options on last sheet, but the basic 15/50 works really well:
https://www.mobil.com/lubricants/-/media/project/wep/mobil/mobil-row-us-1/pdf/mobil-1-engine-oils-product-guide-sheet--may-2022.pdf

Originally Posted by Ryan_Cunningham

I know, there are an egregious amount of threads on the topic, and I've read nearly all of them. I've read Wayne's book three or four times on the process but I'm relatively heavily invested into my 1981 3.6 project and don't want to make any mistakes.

I'm taking off the 16th through the 19th to assist my mechanic with the installation because my other project is on my lift so this topic has been weighing heavily on my mind.

So it appears these are the steps to take per what I can compile (please feel free to critique, add emphasis, or confuse things as you see fit):

1) Fill with Brad Penn Break-In Oil 20W50 (Probably 10-12 qts)
2) Build oil pressure prior to start by disabling the ignition system.
3) Repeat a few times until the oil pressure light goes out for >15"
4) Reconnect ignition and start engine and run at 2,000 rpm for 20 min
5) Change oil with Brad Penn Break-In Oil 20W50.
6) Restart engine, set RPM and drive varying the load as much as possible but remain below 5,000 RPM for three to five miles. Let car sit overnight.
7) Second drive for eight to ten miles doing the same thing.
8) Third drive ten to 20 miles, fourth drive about 50.
9) Continue to drive the car and change oil after 500 miles, and again at 1,000 then you're at a normal interval.

Questions:
1) Reading about and seeing the 996T with over 1,000,000 km running Mobile 1, when is an appropriate time to switch over to synthetic? At 500 miles? What weight?
2) Everyone has read the Mototune article from the early 2000s I'm assuming, wouldn't running the engine at 2,000 RPM on the initial start run counter to that argument? Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
3) Better oil recommendations or changes to the steps I've compiled above?
4) Would it be better to have it broken in on a dyno?

[Ryan_Cunningham]

Originally Posted by scarceller

Can't comment on breakin but not all Mobile1 oils have correct high level of zinc and phosphorous for the mechanical rockers.
I use only the Mobile1 15W/50 that is designed for use in mechanical rockers.
Here's the official Mobile1 oil chart, locate the row for the 15/50 you will also see more expensive race oil options on last sheet, but the basic 15/50 works really well:
https://www.mobil.com/lubricants/-/media/project/wep/mobil/mobil-row-us-1/pdf/mobil-1-engine-oils-product-guide-sheet--may-2022.pdf

Valid. Thank you for that.

Mobile 1 V-Twin synthetic looks to have a pretty high level of zinc and I've heard guys running that in these engines, but it's not cheap.

[stubble88]

20w-50 for break in? I was advised 30w. I chose Kendall.