So solid continuity for the coil connections all the way back to the 6-pin connector. A to A, 31a to negative both show zero ohms. Evidently the damaged insulation and potential contact between the conductors was not the problem.

Dru,

The primary voltage from the CDI to the coil is up to 450V. At that level you might get arcing between the exposed conductors. A simple ohm meter reading won’t identify this.

No exposed conductors at this point.

Agree, with the break in the coil wire insulation, the HV may well arc to ground ( e.g. any part of the engine metal or even the coil casing), rather than going through the coil. That could well have damaged the output stage of the electronics.

Since you are a few miles away, I can share what to look for through our support so we can get this fixed for you.

Sometimes it take a while to remember things. Like the spare coil and CDI stashed in the smuggler's box just in case back when I had intermittent spark failure.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1755371575.jpg

And what do you know, it's a Bob Ashlock inspected (in 2013!) unit.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1755371575.jpg

Plug it in, and...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1755371575.jpg

So now on to the repair process for my broken parts.

Thank you all for your help. I am now goin' mobile!

Since your spare CDI is a 6 pin and has not been rebuilt, it should be!
The 6 pin has a much higher failure rate than the 3 pin, because of a key component.
Using it as a spare is risky, even though it runs the engine now.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1755378065.jpg

So....

Jonny at Classic Retrofit was a real champ. He not only fixed my CDI+ for free (I paid for 1X shipping and 2X ...{ahem} customs charges, most of which went to DHL, I think) but he also included a nice t-shirt with CR logo on the front and the test-bed SC on the back.

AND for the backup CDI, Ingo went through it made repairs and sent it back in a matter of days. Once I get the new alternator and fan in, I'll install the CDI+ and be on the road.

Thank you all for your help and encouragement.

Good to to hear Jonny stands behind is product. Did he say what caused the failure ?

While I suspect the damaged wire insulation in my car arced and took out the output stage (mentioned by him above in post 24 and in a direct email conversation), he called it faulty soldering and fixed it free.

What else do they make that I can order?

No secrets here. This was traced to a solder joint that was contaminated during manufacture.

Yes, the output stage was damaged but on closer inspection we also noticed that one of the solder joints on the PCB had evidence of cracking. The joint in question is where the main charge capacitor is soldered through the board. But why?

Removing the solder revealed that there were traces of silicone compound in the ' through hole' where the leg of the capacitor was soldered. (We use silicone to bed down the main capacitor to stop it vibrating which would ultimately fracture the legs). Only a small amount is needed but it this case too much was used which was squeezed into the hole which prevented the solder from flowing into the hole and around the leg. From the top, it would look 'normal' hence passed visual inspection but only the top of the joint would be making contact. Over time, given the high voltage and energy passing through the joint it spark eroded the solder!

We have subsequently trained the assembly house to take particular care in that part of the assembly process.

Any faults due to manufacture are covered by the warranty.

The customer is happy getting a working car back. But as someone who works in a similar industry, you're probably even happier to have gotten back a failed unit, diagnosed the issue, and improved the process so it won't happen again.

Where I work we always get back failed units, and the lessons learned are critical to flight safety and process improvement.

100% correct. Although it was disappointing to discover that the error was due to clumsy assembly ( by an external PCB house ) it has led to a decision to bring that part of the assembly in house. We are also looking at 'designing out' the need for a tube of goo for anti-vibration - perhaps using a cut to shape sticky pad instead.

I'm always happy to help!��

Broken air diverter. Advice on repair? I lack a welder (or welding skills).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1762310587.jpg

OK, rivets it is with hi-temp JB Weld slathered in between for vibration / filling. 1mm stainless sheet for the patch.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1762904442.jpg

Next, I sourced a rebuilt externally regulated alternator (direct replacement). Car runs, shows 14V at the lighter, but the J. Bell quad-gauge LED alternator light is on full blast It was not before replacing the alternator.

Re-opened and checked the wiring (I thought the black wire may have pulled off of the terminal in all the to-ing and fro-ing), but all is in place. The only thing maybe to do differently is separate the 3 browns from the 1 brown on the two different B- studs.

Ideas?