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gsmith660's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
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G50 clutch pedal ideas


G50 pedal assemblies seem to be scarce so has anyone ever done something like remove the clutch pedal from an early pedal assembly and add something like this next to the assembly there appears to be room.

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Old 10-07-2025, 03:32 PM
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I just made my own using an earlier pedal box. The clutch pedal started life as a G50 pedal and I welded on some 5/16" parts to clear the master cylinder rod. Obviously you'd just need the clutch parts and not the brake or Accelerator Position Sensor and bracket.

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1160332-early-911-930-pedal-box-scrs-style-dbw-g50-clutch.html
Old 10-08-2025, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannobee View Post
I just made my own using an earlier pedal box. The clutch pedal started life as a G50 pedal and I welded on some 5/16" parts to clear the master cylinder rod. Obviously you'd just need the clutch parts and not the brake or Accelerator Position Sensor and bracket.

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1160332-early-911-930-pedal-box-scrs-style-dbw-g50-clutch.html
Do you have any detail pics of the clutch setup I think this is the route I am going to go
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" Porsche there is no substitute" I always liked that saying. Air cooled is the only way to go!
76 911 C.R.A.P. Gruppe #2 BIG time TURBO C.R.A.P. Bitz EFI/EDIS Now MegaSquirt 3
76 Blazer also restored by me
Old 10-08-2025, 11:00 AM
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I think the pics show it well, but if not here goes.

A G50 pedal was used, but I only ended up using the serrated foot pedal and the vertical part of the pedal. I welded some 5/16" x 1 1/4" bar stock to the rest of the factory pedal. If you look in the pics you'll see that it's a "Z" shape to clear the clutch master cylinder rod. I welded a pin to pedal that matched the brake pedal clevis (the location determines the pedal ratio - choose wisely) and retained the pedal with a washer and cotter key, just like the factory brake pedal. I made a new end for the factory clutch rod and omitted the roll pin and used a 6mm bolt. The other end of the clutch rod was ground off and only the shoulder of the lever remains. As for mounting the new clutch master cylinder, I used the commonly available race car three hole "brake/clutch master cylinder firewall brace mount plate." If you only need the clutch part, cut the plate up and position the master cylinder where you need it, then weld on a couple of brackets for stability. You should also use a pedal stop or two.

Remember, you'll need another reservoir for the clutch fluid, and some hose rated for brake fluid. Or if you'll be using the same factory reservoir for the brakes and clutch, you'll need some tees to tie all three hoses together and some kind of way so that the clutch goes dry before the brakes if the brake fluid leaks.
Old 10-10-2025, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannobee View Post
I think the pics show it well, but if not here goes.

A G50 pedal was used, but I only ended up using the serrated foot pedal and the vertical part of the pedal. I welded some 5/16" x 1 1/4" bar stock to the rest of the factory pedal. If you look in the pics you'll see that it's a "Z" shape to clear the clutch master cylinder rod. I welded a pin to pedal that matched the brake pedal clevis (the location determines the pedal ratio - choose wisely) and retained the pedal with a washer and cotter key, just like the factory brake pedal. I made a new end for the factory clutch rod and omitted the roll pin and used a 6mm bolt. The other end of the clutch rod was ground off and only the shoulder of the lever remains. As for mounting the new clutch master cylinder, I used the commonly available race car three hole "brake/clutch master cylinder firewall brace mount plate." If you only need the clutch part, cut the plate up and position the master cylinder where you need it, then weld on a couple of brackets for stability. You should also use a pedal stop or two.

Remember, you'll need another reservoir for the clutch fluid, and some hose rated for brake fluid. Or if you'll be using the same factory reservoir for the brakes and clutch, you'll need some tees to tie all three hoses together and some kind of way so that the clutch goes dry before the brakes if the brake fluid leaks.
How did your clutch master cylinder mate up with the factory hydralic lines
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" Porsche there is no substitute" I always liked that saying. Air cooled is the only way to go!
76 911 C.R.A.P. Gruppe #2 BIG time TURBO C.R.A.P. Bitz EFI/EDIS Now MegaSquirt 3
76 Blazer also restored by me
Old 10-10-2025, 11:48 AM
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Which hydraulic lines? It obviously didn't have a hydraulic clutch before. If you mean the clutch master supply line, it'll need a hose going to a reservoir.
Old 10-10-2025, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannobee View Post
Which hydraulic lines? It obviously didn't have a hydraulic clutch before. If you mean the clutch master supply line, it'll need a hose going to a reservoir.
I was talking about the hydraulic line running from the master to the slave

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" Porsche there is no substitute" I always liked that saying. Air cooled is the only way to go!
76 911 C.R.A.P. Gruppe #2 BIG time TURBO C.R.A.P. Bitz EFI/EDIS Now MegaSquirt 3
76 Blazer also restored by me
Old 10-10-2025, 06:50 PM
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