Because its true

Love this discussion. Looks like we have many good units to choose from. I’m somewhat new to this, but was introduced to ECU Master Black. It’s giving me sequential spark ( split my signal for dual COP), sequential injection, drive-by-wire for single throttle body, built in MAP sensor, built-in LSU 4.9 lamba controller, fuel press sensor input along with oil press and temp (designated as Coolant Temp for operational purposes). And using a few outputs such as one to open a resonance flap in the 964 manifold. I have a lot to learn and an upcoming date wirh local tuner to get me on the right path for this new 3.2SS build. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761269462.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761269462.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761269462.jpg

From experience finding someone willing to tune an air cooled 911 is difficult. Find a shop that works for you, and see what they use. Will be a lot easier than finding someone willing to tune X ecu on Y setup.

MoTec or go home :)

The ecu (M130) itself was about $2400, but I also paid for a new custom harness, and added a second O2 sensor, and a bunch of other optional extras so my total cost was more than double that. Not cheap but I think there are much more affordable ways to get into MoTec than how I did it. That being said, I’ve put a couple thousand miles on it without a single hiccup since I finished it in May, so I’m happy to just have a reliable fun car after years of chasing ghosts!

One of the advantages of Haltech—compared to most other ECUs, possibly even MoTeC—is the built-in WiFi. My ECU lives under the passenger seat, so being able to connect wirelessly is a game-changer. I can drive around with my laptop and log or tune without a single cable.
Haltech also offers a mobile app that lets me monitor key parameters like RPM, oil pressure, and more in real time. I just connect my iPhone over WiFi and I’m good to go. You can even tweak some settings directly from the app. Here’s a look at a few of the app screens from Haltech’s site.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761426903.png

Thanks Mile,

There is a Motec Dealer nearish to me, but their website seems like they specialize in Vipers. I’ll need to give them a call.

Top,

For a basic 911 setup, sequential COPs, ignition, 8 foot harness with ECU side plugs and IAC, what unit would be needed and approximately the cost. Would it come with a base tune and would that be an additional charge?

Thanks,
Rutager

[QUOTE=montauk;12553320]One of the advantages of Haltech—compared to most other ECUs, possibly even MoTeC—is the built-in WiFi. My ECU lives under the passenger seat, so being able to connect wirelessly is a game-changer. I can drive around with my laptop and log or tune without a single cable.
Haltech also offers a mobile app that lets me monitor key parameters like RPM, oil pressure, and more in real time. I just connect my iPhone over WiFi and I’m good to go. You can even tweak some settings directly from the app.

I looked up Haltech and there are about a half dozen local dealers, but once again they just do Asian and America cars or motorcycles.

The Maxxecu has Bluetooth and what appears to be an app. as well. Don’t get me started on apps... all it takes is the phone to update an IOS and the device manufacturer not too and you have a worthless app.

It appears that there are a lot of good choices of ECUs on the market, unfortunately not too much failure data available.

I appreciate the info.

What unit did you go with? It seems like you have to go pretty high up their line to get 6 cylinder sequential and WiFi?

I'm using the Haltech R3. It’s pricey, but it includes a built-in PDU, so you don’t need external relays. Large current loads are limited to four at 25A each. I’m running both the fuel pump and starter solenoid directly from the R3. While it doesn’t offer direct support for air-cooled 911s, that hasn’t been an issue for me. I leaned on the Haltech Facebook group a bit, but mostly I relied on ChatGPT to help dial in the settings. The AI was incredibly helpful. I’m sure a professional tuner could squeeze more power out of it, but for now, the car runs and drives perfectly fine.

I’m also using the ECU to monitor oil pressure and temperature with a new Bosch sensor. The ECU drives the original gauges, and I added a low oil pressure warning light set to illuminate below 10 PSI. Having the built-in PDU eliminates a lot of old wiring. I think the only wire left from the old engine harness is the alternator field wire, but I plan to move that over to the ECU as well.

As others have mentioned, your best bet is to find someone local that understands the ECU of your choice and 911's.


[QUOTE=rwest;12553454]

[QUOTE=rwest;12553454] The app is updated regularly and used by a lot of Maxxecu customers and actually very stable.

It is used primarily for displaying info like a motorsports dash, shift light and as a fault display like an OBD scan tool. Although the con is that it is only available on Android.

It does have some digital input functions like boost target selection, launch control on and off etc. The app like the EMS software is really flexible if you choose to use the toggle function.

You can choose to use it or not.

I use it on race vehicles sometimes when the customer doesn't have the budget for a motorsports display, or for stock vehicles that want to retain the stock dash but also have additional data streaming on the side.

On my personal car I use one of the app inputs as a kill switch when I park the car out in public as theft prevention.

For drive by wire vehicles I have also used it for a quick way to turn on a detuned "valet" mode so the car can't be abused when out of your care.

Sent from my SM-F741U using Tapatalk

ChatGPT to refine the tune! That’s kind of wild to me, but nor surprising. I’m curious to know more about the prompts you used, what you were asking it to do, that kind of thing.


[QUOTE=montauk;12553504]I'm using the Haltech R3. It’s pricey, but it includes a built-in PDU, so you don’t need external relays. Large current loads are limited to four at 25A each. I’m running both the fuel pump and starter solenoid directly from the R3. While it doesn’t offer direct support for air-cooled 911s, that hasn’t been an issue for me. I leaned on the Haltech Facebook group a bit, but mostly I relied on ChatGPT to help dial in the settings. The AI was incredibly helpful. I’m sure a professional tuner could squeeze more power out of it, but for now, the car runs and drives perfectly fine.

I’m also using the ECU to monitor oil pressure and temperature with a new Bosch sensor. The ECU drives the original gauges, and I added a low oil pressure warning light set to illuminate below 10 PSI. Having the built-in PDU eliminates a lot of old wiring. I think the only wire left from the old engine harness is the alternator field wire, but I plan to move that over to the ECU as well.

As others have mentioned, your best bet is to find someone local that understands the ECU of your choice and 911's.

I'm no AI expert but writing about what you're doing, converting a 1980 Porsche 911 to EFI/ITB, and following up with a specific question seems to work. Then, as you have more questions, go back to that conversation. There's a problem I just found out about when I saw your post. I'm using microsoft Copilot, it's the paid version, and it's now telling me that it's deleted anything I've uploaded over 30 days old. So here's an example I just created of the process I used.

I wrote this and uploaded this chart.
I want to modify the fuel prime pulse on my 1980 Porsche 911 EFI/ITB conversion. Since it's aircooled, I'm monitoring cylinder head temperature not coolant temperature. Can you give me suggestions based on the chart I uploaded.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761525934.png

Here's the response:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761526120.png
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761526120.png

Keep in mind, AI gets things wrong - quite often in my experience. So you need to make sure that what it's telling you makes sense.