Painting engine compartment - will a spray can finish last?

[RichMason]

Painting engine compartment - will a spray can finish last?
Since alot of my factory under/overcoating has flaked off in the engine compartment, I'm going to strip and paint it. I'm not sure if I'm going to do a full repaint after I finish all of my other rust work so I'm leaning towards Rustoleum or another off the shelf spray paint in something close to Bahama Yellow. Will this be durable enough or should I consider another finish? My garage has a dusty gravel floor so I don't think I'm going to invest in painting equipment at this time.


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[Formerly Steve Wilkinson]

The short answer is no. I tried using a good, high-quality, high-temp silver spray and am not happy with its lack of durability. Perhaps if I'd cleaned and primed assiduously and used a spray-can product specifically made for such an application--maybe Wurth makes something--it would have worked. God knows I painted the rest of the car perfectly well with Glasurit, and if I'd expended the same effort of the engine compartment I'd be happier.

So the long answer is you'll need to put just about as much effort into it with spraycans, if it's possible, as you would if you simply went ahead and put on real primer and paint with a Binks.

Stephan

[BGCarrera32]

Wet down your garage floor, or cover with plastic.
Borrow a small compressor, and get a detail gun.
Have some single stage paint mixed up in your bahama yellow, like PPG Concept. Mask off, prime, then shoot.

I did mine with color matched spray cans. Takes forever, too tight of an area to do well.

If you want to jump out there on a Saturday morning and use spray cans, it will probably look o.k., but you get what you pay for.

[73911guy]

Mine was painted with spray bombs 5 years ago. I didn't do it though.

Now I'm trying to figure out how to get all of the spray bomb paint off (the surfaces were not properly prepared and the paint did not stick) so I can paint it with the same polyurethane 2 stage paint used on the exterior.

Lots more work than doing it right the first time.

Proper preparation is the key no matter what you use.

Jim
'73 911T

[Dantilla]

Please don't tell anyone, but I used rattle cans on mine, and it still looks great. I did spend quite a bit of time on prep work.

[RickM]

If you do go with spray cans here's a place that will color match and sell Enamel, Laquer or other types of paint at a relatively low price.....

http://www.towerpaint.com/index2.html

[Ove]

Rich,

Since the spray cans are very easy to use compared to professional spray equipment people tend to think that less preparation is also needed. Then the paint gets the blame when it flakes off because of the poor preparation

The time and effort you put in degreasing/cleaning, sanding and priming the engine compartment will determine how well the paint stays on. Good quality spray can paint will last a long time if everything is done correctly.

The above is my personal experience from painting other cars. When the job is done you will not regret that extra time you spent on preparation.

[stomachmonkey]

I have a neighbor who is into old Jeeps and Trucks. He regularly paints the entire things with cans.

He spends a good deal of time on the prepwork and I have to admit they come out pretty good.

I'm sure with patience you can get a good result.

Scott

[Randy Webb]

Can anyone explain exactly what prep work needs to be done? How do you know when you've degreased enough? Just a lack of a greasy "feel"? What do you do afteryou use degreaser? Use primer or some other intermediate step?

[Harlan Chinn]

Randy, enough prep is when you apply the paint and it doesn't pool into individual droplets. Seriously though, degrease with a good degreaser using a scotchbrite pad to also scour the surface. Let dry thoroughly. Before paint, wipe down with lacquer thinner, let evaporate before spraying on your paint either from a gun or a warmed "rat can".

[RickM]

Whatever you do, Do Not sand anything before you clean/degrease the surface. You'll end up rubbing the grease and impurities into the scratches....Not good.

I usually utilize a sovent like Prepsol to get rid of wax or grease. Follow up with laquer thinner or enamel reducer.

When all is dry you may want to sand for bite and to remove surface irregularities. Then use a tack rag to remove dust.