DBW, What are you using for pedal and actuators?
 

Hi,

I have PMO ITBs and was hoping to keep my factory linkage, but now that I’m going to upgrade my ECU and doing a bunch of thinking about how much easier it would be to deal with cold starts etc., I was hoping that I could get some suggestions on what pedal and actuator works well.

It appears that the 997 pedal is an option and Top Tuning makes a mounting adapter.

How about the unit in the engine compartment? What model is good and who makes mounting hardware to mount it?

Thanks!

Sub'd as I'm having linkage issues and maybe switching to a DBW solution might fix my problems.

I used BMW parts for my DBW setup — I think I posted the part numbers somewhere on here. I don’t know of any kits for mounting the throttle motor, so I made my own bracket. Started with a cardboard template, then transferred it to 18-gauge steel. To stiffen it, I bent the edges and welded a rib underneath. If I were doing it again, I’d probably use 1/4" aluminum plate — looks cleaner and is plenty strong.
For the pedal, I made a bracket out of oak. I had plans to remake it in aluminum or steel, but honestly it’s very solid. It bolts to the two factory pedal attachment holes and has a rear brace to keep it rigid.
Kevin — if your linkage issues are at the throttle bodies, DBW may not solve them. With my PMO setup, the basic linkage remains the same. The DBW motor pushes/pulls the cross arm. I’ve seen other setups where the DBW motor acts across the engine, directly moving the throttle linkage. That approach seems better if you can make it work — it eliminates the cross arm and the drop-down linkage at the end of the throttle bodies.

Seems like if you could use two motors one per bank and get rid of the linkage that might be the best approach if you can get them working identically.

If you have a part number or what thread you might have listed it in, that would be appreciated.

Here is my Adapt Motorsport pedal and 3D printed bracket. Looks like a Hella BMW pedal. Easy holt-in solution. I have single throttle body so won’t clutter this thread with that. Love these topics. Best of luck.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763691042.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763691042.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763691042.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763691042.jpg

That's the same pedal I'm using. Great job on the bracket.

I found my post about my DBW parts/install

BMW Electronic Throttle Conversion for My Porsche 911
For my electronic throttle setup, I sourced the following components from eBay:
• Throttle Actuator: BMW 2001–2006 E46 M3 (Part #12727831529)
• Acceleration Pedal: BMW 2012–2018 F30/F31/F34 3-Series Gas Pedal (Part #6853175 OEM)
• Connector: VW/Audi/BMW Headlight Level Wiring Connector Pigtail Plug Socket (Part #2-967616-1)
Throttle & Pedal Sensors
For accurate throttle control, I installed a throttle position sensor (TPS) that mounts directly onto the throttle motor shaft. I opted for the OEM Eurosensor version from DigiKey:
• Sensor Part: 5555-EURO-XPD-2832-812-214-911-00-ND
• Manufacturer: VARIOHM / EURO-XPD-2832-812-214-911-00
The throttle position sensor and pedal position sensor each have two sensors, so each requires two sensor wires. For the Haltech ECU, this means running AVI wires:
• Throttle Sensors: AVI5 & AVI6
• Pedal Sensors: AVI8 & AVI9
• Power & Ground: 5V power and signal ground
The throttle motor itself needs two power wires, which connect to HBO wires on the Haltech ECU. In my case, these were HBO1 & HBO2.
Bracket Fabrication
The most time-consuming part of the entire project was fabricating the brackets for the throttle motor and pedal.
• Throttle Motor Bracket: I built this using 18-gauge steel, attaching it to:
o The mount for the stock bellcrank
o The side of the ITBs where the crossbar support attaches
o The breather
To reinforce it, I bent the edges and welded a strengthening rib on the underside for stiffness. I also mounted it at an angle so the throttle motor shaft is parallel to the crossbar.
• Pedal Bracket: I initially built it out of oak to prototype the shape, intending to replace it with metal. However, it turned out so strong that I’ve stuck with the wood bracket for now. I even used my duo-doweler to attach a support to it. Given that pedal boards are plywood anyway, it actually feels like a natural fit.
Cost Breakdown
Here's what I spent on the setup:
• Throttle Motor & Pedal: ~$300
• TPS Sensor: ~$200
• Pedal Connector: ~$20
Since most of the components were used, durability remains to be seen—but so far, so good!

Thanks for the parts list!

I thought about heading to my local U Pull R Parts to try and find the pedal and servo, but my quick internet search showed the servos can be a weak point with age, so maybe that should be bought new... I do love pulling parts though!

I just wish someone made a bracket rather than me having to do it, but I will have the engine out, so easy to maneuver around.