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-   -   Removing old sealant…? (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1187428-removing-old-sealant.html)

Showdown 12-20-2025 05:34 PM

Removing old sealant…?
 
In the process of prepping for rebuilding my engine and going through all the bits and pieces, cleaning etc….

My cam towers have remnants of the original sealant on them, now brown and impossible to remove. I’ve tried vapor blasting, acetone, methylene chloride, light razor blade scraping, using new loctite sealant to soften the old… nothing has worked.

What say you: fuggedaboutit, no big deal, sand it off? Scrape? Unicorn tears??

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...71bd1cccb4.jpg

Flat6pac 12-20-2025 06:30 PM

The brown isn’t a sealing surface
Sealing surfaces are clean area between the factory sealant.
Bruce

Flat6pac 12-20-2025 06:35 PM

Like this
 
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1766284250.jpg
Bruce

Showdown 12-20-2025 06:46 PM

So, just don’t worry about it?

Rivet 12-21-2025 09:07 AM

SF-790 by Henkle is my go to and listed as the solution to remove case sealant by Loctite.

https://www.grainger.com/product/LOCTITE-Paint-Stripper-Solvent-4KM53

Sent from my SM-F741U using Tapatalk

mepstein 12-21-2025 09:19 AM

We use the reddish brown 3M scotch brite pads. We remove every bit of sealant until the part is bare. It’s a pita but that’s how we do it. We also remove the plug for the oil spray bar and make sure it’s spotless inside. Every part is ultrasonic cleaned a couple times, rinsed and blown dry with compressed air.

Showdown 12-21-2025 09:34 AM

Thanks gents,

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rivet (Post 12581735)
SF-790 by Henkle is my go to and listed as the solution to remove case sealant by Loctite.

SF-790 is just methylene chloride in spray form. I have both liquid MC and gelled MC and neither made a dent in the residue... I'll try 790 but I have doubts about it...

Quote:

Originally Posted by mepstein (Post 12581739)
We use the reddish brown 3M scotch brite pads. We remove every bit of sealant until the part is bare. It’s a pita but that’s how we do it. We also remove the plug for the oil spray bar and make sure it’s spotless inside. Every part is ultrasonic cleaned a couple times, rinsed and blown dry with compressed air.

All the parts were ultrasonic cleaned with degreaser, then vapor blasted and then ultrasonic cleaned with detergent and then distilled water until the water was clear and clean and then everything was blown clean with compressed air. The oil spray tube was removed and scrubbed clean. The parts are about as clean and I can imagine they can get.

I'll give it another crack and try the scotch brite pads with more methylene chloride.

85RedCarrera 12-21-2025 09:44 AM

If the sealant is silicone based, you can order Digesil (RPM Technology) from Aircraft Spruce- it is the only thing that I have found that will eat silicone without harming aluminum.
Mechanically remove (scrape) as much as you can, then apply the Digesil- let it sit for a while, and do not allow it to dry.
Wipe it off.
Done

mepstein 12-21-2025 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Showdown (Post 12581751)
Thanks gents,



SF-790 is just methylene chloride in spray form. I have both liquid MC and gelled MC and neither made a dent in the residue... I'll try 790 but I have doubts about it...



All the parts were ultrasonic cleaned with degreaser, then vapor blasted and then ultrasonic cleaned with detergent and then distilled water until the water was clear and clean and then everything was blown clean with compressed air. The oil spray tube was removed and scrubbed clean. The parts are about as clean and I can imagine they can get.

I'll give it another crack and try the scotch brite pads with more methylene chloride.

I don't use any solvents. Just scrub with the scotch brite until all the sealant is gone. Gloves make it more bearable on your fingers.


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