Oil Lines to Disconnect, which is "hard", which "soft" where to loosen? Pics

[H.G.P.]

Oil Lines to Disconnect, which is "hard", which "soft" where to loosen? And how to loosen (left-loosey)?

It appears both lines can be loosened close to the oil cooler. The upper line runs over and down (currves) under the engine. This upper line (see Pic) my size 31 wrench fits on.

Also from the first pic, as the connections, both lines are "soft" as they proceed back toward the sump.

The lower line in the pics requires an even bigger wrench, the line goes onto the oil cooler.

Do I disconnect the lines here, or back and to the rear near the sump tank? The sump tank connections appear dirty/rusty. (last pic)

[911pcars]

It all depends. What do you want to do? Engine drop? Replace oil cooler? Replace hoses?

Sherwood Lee
http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars

[H.G.P.]

"It all depends. What do you want to do? Engine drop? Replace oil cooler? Replace hoses? "

Engine drop,.....those fittings look like plumbing fittings, so uncertain as to whether they are "lefty-loosey", "righty-tighty" or other?

[cowtown]

HGP, they are all standard threads (left=loose). For a drop, it is convenient to detach: 1) the return line where it joins the hard oil return line (from the engine case), near the muffler. 2) the supply line that goes to the engine oil cooler (just a hose clamp on mine, but yours looks like it has a fitting).

[Oldporsche]

I believe '74 and later uses hose barbs and clamps. The earlier ones us fittings on the end of the hoses. Get a diagram from your Airquip dealer.

Good luck,
David Duffield

[911pcars]

Yes, threaded fittings on the early oil tanks. For an engine drop, remove both hoses at the tank. You can use the appropriately-size metric wrench or the always handy, adjustable metric wrench. I would clean off the crud from the oil tank first; makes removal less messy on the overalls and hands and reduces chance of introducing junk into the lube system.

Sherwood

[H.G.P.]

Originally posted by 911pcars
Yes, threaded fittings on the early oil tanks. For an engine drop, remove both hoses at the tank. You can use the appropriately-size metric wrench or the always handy, adjustable metric wrench. I would clean off the crud from the oil tank first; makes removal less messy on the overalls and hands and reduces chance of introducing junk into the lube system.

Sherwood

So pic #1 above I do not touch those connections? I see connections right at the tank itself, as in pic above #2 , is that what is taken off?

I won't bust the tank doing this will I?? (At the tank the connections look very dirty)

[911pcars]

For an engine drop, remove both hoses at the tank. If the tank looks so fragile, you can disconnect at the other end of the hose. However access may be more difficult. Do you see much swing room at the cooler?. I don't see how you can tell about the tank beyond the built-up grease. The factory makes an oil line wrench set for this purpose. It's not mandatory, but it makes it a little easier.

Clean the area around the fittings before opening the connection.

Sherwood

[H.G.P.]

Originally posted by 911pcars
For an engine drop, remove both hoses at the tank. If the tank looks so fragile, you can disconnect at the other end of the hose. However access may be more difficult. Do you see much swing room at the cooler?. I don't see how you can tell about the tank beyond the built-up grease. The factory makes an oil line wrench set for this purpose. It's not mandatory, but it makes it a little easier.

Clean the area around the fittings before opening the connection.

Sherwood

OK, Thanks. The cooler has a similar attachment, the second upper line proceeds curved under the case. I'll try the attachments at the tank (after cleaning it up, and perhaps soak PB on the large nuts.)

Thanks again.

[H.G.P.]

Originally posted by 911pcars
For an engine drop, remove both hoses at the tank. If the tank looks so fragile, you can disconnect at the other end of the hose. However access may be more difficult. Do you see much swing room at the cooler?. I don't see how you can tell about the tank beyond the built-up grease. The factory makes an oil line wrench set for this purpose. It's not mandatory, but it makes it a little easier.

Clean the area around the fittings before opening the connection.

Sherwood

I found a wrench today, Great Neck twelve inch with heavy duty handle that moves the rear nut! Haven't tried the other nut yet.

[H.G.P.]

Both lines came off like a champ. The trunion of the clutch cable, and the throttle linkage are the last remaining.