clutch replacement...DIY?

[k9handler]

Well I have a couple options, and I am not sure of what I should do.

1. Go the safe route and have Harald install my new Sachs Power clutch. (Harald is about 3 hours north of me)

2. Have a local Porsche guy do the work, but charge me an arm and a leg for it.

3. Go to the auto skills center on the base here and attempt to do it myself, knowing that the mechanics are there to assist with my questions but not very qualified to answer them...and I would have to complete the job in 6-8 hours since they have no storage facilities.

Harald is a great guy and I trust him and his work...but if he does the work I don't learn a damn thing about how it all works and I am really wanting to learn this type of repair.

So what do you think? If I was able to get a pretty good step-by-step guide to do the clutch replacement myself would I be able to do it with my basic mechanical knowledge?

[osidak]

I don't know how much your 3.6 would complicate matters but on my SC it is a simple job

[dean]

Would you get any help with the labor at the skill center? If not then it might be hard to do it yourself in less than 8hrs the first time. I would highly recomend that you find a place where you can do it yourself and you take your time and learn.

[GB83SC]

If you have never done a engine drop, 6-8 hours is not alot of time to complete. I would do the work, but find a better location where you are not limited to a tight time frame. When you can take your time and double check your work as you go will save you at the end.
Good luck.

[BGCarrera32]

This is a very DIY job, but 8 hrs isn't enough. If you can roll it aside and pick it up again the next day, you might be able to do it. Problems occur when you run into some stupid stuck bolt or wierdness (can happen on anything obviously) so you'd be hard pushed the first time through to get it done.

Good luck-
BG

[Rick Lee]

You can DIY this job. I've done it and I knew absolutely nothing back then.

[k9handler]

well I spoke with the auto skills shop and I would be able to roll the vehicle out of the shop bay and leave it on the grounds overnight and pick up where I left off the next day. I am going to speak with Harald and get his opinion before I make the comittment to DIY this project. My next task is to find the step-by-step guide for this project so I can possibly eliminate errors/complications. Anyone have one?

[Superman]

It's pretty fun to do it yourself. If the shop has a lift that does not get in the way of the engine being lowered, then it should be pretty straightforward. If you're going to tackle it yourself, then you don't want complications like waiting for parts you thought you would not need. And since you'll be saving substantial labor costs, my advice is to gather together EVERY part you can replace. New clutch disk, pressure plate, release bearing, fork, roll pin, engine seal, tranny seal, guide tube, etc. etc.

[Rick Lee]

I dunno what dropping a 3.6 out of a '75 body requires, but it can't be too far off from the chapter in Wayne's book. Just label all your wires BEFORE you disconnect them, make a check list, check each item off as you disconnect it and check it again when you reconnect it. Take lots of digital photos, round up lots of tools, replace everything you possibly can while you're in there and it should be no problem.

[stomachmonkey]

If you normally park your car outside at night then it should actually be safer outside the base shop, it won't be running and someone would need to flatbed it away.

Big question is will they let you leave the motor and tranny inside?

If yes you are all set.

As to Supermans point make sure that no special tools are required.

Scott

[k9handler]

the book...oh yes! Which one? 101 projects or the engine book?
I will order it today.

[Rick Lee]

101 Projects.

[k9handler]

thanks Richard

[k9handler]

ok, I am the official pain in the a$$ customer of the day!
After I ordered the book and started to research the clutch replacement...and as Superman stated, there are some other items I may need. I telephoned the customer service department and had them add the items to my recent order. The customer service rep was excellent and I feel confident that the order will be taken care of in the same great fashion of my previous orders. Thanks

[cowtown]

Make sure you have a wrench big enough to get that !#!@# mechanical speedometer cable off the '75 transmission! I think it is 24 or 26mm but double check. That was the one thing that really slowed us down on my first engine drop (learning from a couple guys who had done them before).

Another thing that will save half an hour up front is preinstalling the throwout bearing on the pressure plate. I scratched my head for a while on that one. Now it seems obvious, but it didn't then.

[c2 rower]

Do it yourself. Just don't be in a hurry. I did my 944s years ago and found it very satifying working a P car. You will really get a sense of how the car is built.

[k9handler]

I am going to do this.....

A few questions:

In the tech article Wayne states I don't need to drop the tranny for a clutch replacement...so would I need to disconnect the speedo cable? What other tranny connections should I disconnect or leave alone?

The other question is reguarding the flywheel. I have very few miles on the new Patrick Motorsports flywheel so I do not wish to remove it, so other than connecting the pressure plate I should be able to simply secure it so it will not move and continue with the clutch install...is this correct?

Any other tricks I should know?

[Superman]

True. I don't know why you would need to remove the flywheel. According to JW, rear main engine seals on our cars almost never leak. Contaminated clutch disks are getting oil from the tranny input shaft. Believe it.

I also scratched my head over the TOB attachment to the PP. Later, I watched JW do one. He set the TOB on the table and then set the PP on it. Snapped the ring on and he was done. If John can do something three times as fast as I can, that means I'm getting pretty fast.

Three things we should avoid discussing here. Religion (we're pretty good about this). Politics (guilty, Your Honor). And partial engine drops. Wayne likes the partial. I say remove the tranny too. One of my main reasons for this is the difficulty that can be encountered when trying to mate the tranny and engine back together. Hard enough with both on the floor. Which reminds me. Be SURE you have the clutch alignment tool.

[Rick Lee]

One more vote for removing engine and tranny together.

[k9handler]

Thanks for the response Superman.
I did order the clutch alignment tool...and it would seem easier to mate the tranny/engine on the floor where things can be controlled better.