Suspension Question/Opinions...

Typical Fish · Typical Fish's Garage

Here is the scenario: '84 Cabriolet, 80K miles, driven on LA freeways. New tires, car aligned; however, the car seems to be a "bone rattler" stiff and a little "loose". Bushing, shocks, etc. all original, never changed. I know the whole suspension has to be gone through, but unfortunately, I have to eat it like an elephant; one bite at a time.

Where would you start?

mike mueller · 07-24-2003, 04:21 PM

Shocks have the least amount of down time for R&R...bushings take a bit longer and will put the car down for a full day, longer if you get bit by the "while I'm here bug"

Superman · 07-24-2003, 04:36 PM

I don't have the coin for torsion bars and all the "while you're in there" stuff like Neatrix bushings, etc., but I will probably put new shocks on it soon. New shocks are going to give you some of the best "bang for your buck" of any improvements you will make.

Very best bang for your buck would be the free stuff. Like removing the buzzer relay. Do a search.

Randy Webb · 07-24-2003, 04:58 PM

Why one bite/time? $$ or time w/o car? It matters 'cuz you can do all the bushing stuff yourself (w/ 1 helper for big nuts) and save many 100's of $$. The very easiest thing to do is the R shocks. Do you know the size of your t-bars?? Maybe someone stiffened the car too much?

Repost w/specifics & I'm sure you'll get lots of advice (some of it even worthwhile!)

masraum · 07-24-2003, 05:04 PM

Shocks/struts. I did mine early this spring. I thought my car felt fine, but the difference after putting the new parts on was huge. It was like having a new car again.

Typical Fish · Typical Fish's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by Randy Webb
Do you know the size of your t-bars?? Maybe someone stiffened the car too much?

Repost w/specifics & I'm sure you'll get lots of advice (some of it even worthwhile!)

That is one of the problems; not that much documentation. The car was woman owned, though, and not driven much, I think she just was not a "gear head-ette". Feels mostly like wear on all the stock parts. Kind of an intangible feeling, like it is just worn out.

Zeke · 07-24-2003, 08:56 PM

"bone rattler" stiff and a little "loose". By that you mean it rides rough and is sloppy at the same time? Maybe you ought to have somone drive it that knows the model well. Where in SoCal? In the Valley, maybe Dave or Tyson at TRE. In Orange County, a few more. You might need just a tie rod or something for the "loose."

As far as stiff, the freeways around here are no place to judge a car. My Boxster rides terrible on the 405 and it's not even an S with the stiffer suspension. I marvel at the 22 Eastbound from the 405. When you hit that resurfaced/smooth concrete it feels like you just left the ground in a plane. There are some places up the 405 about SM Fwy/ Wilshire that can get you airborne in the right 2 lanes at anything over 80. (When can you go 80 at Wilshire? After midnight.) I digress, sorry.

Typical Fish · Typical Fish's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by Zeke
There are some places up the 405 about SM Fwy/ Wilshire that can get you airborne in the right 2 lanes at anything over 80. (When can you go 80 at Wilshire? After midnight.) I digress, sorry.

That's FUNNY. I see you are in the LBC, I live in Belmont Shore and commute to Santa Monica three days a week. Truth be told, though, I doubt you could even do it at midnight.

I am more of a late afternoon S/B 710 guy. Can usually get to 110-120. Then you can roll right into the twisties that they run the Long Beach Grand Prix on.

Good call on having someone drive it. I guess I figured that for peace of mind I would just end up going through everything sooner or later anyways.

Chuck Moreland · 07-24-2003, 10:02 PM

Replace the shocks and the bushings front and rear, then get it aligned and corner balanced. You will have a transformed car.

After 20 years these parts are all shot!

Jdub · 07-25-2003, 07:34 AM

Matt:

You can probably assume you have all stock parts. You won't need to replace the tbars but the strut/shock, bushing F/R, and ball joints ought to be replaced.

Cheap fix on the ball joints is to take a hypodermic, fill it with as heavy an oil as you can push out, and inject this through the ball joint rubber boot. This will buy you some time there.

Be sure when you align and corner balance to also have your wheels rebalanced. That makes a world of difference.

John

Typical Fish · Typical Fish's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by Jdub
also have your wheels rebalanced. That makes a world of difference.

John

Good call , I did when I got the car and it improved things about 50%...

Randy Webb · 07-25-2003, 10:46 AM

It's critical to drive other cars of similar vintage for comparison. Also, did the woman buy it new?? If you are doing the F shocks, you may as well do the bushings up front also. You could just od the R shocks alone, but it will be best to do all rubber (brake hoses too!!).

Check the ball joints -- maybe they don't need replacement. Also check wheel bearings.

To save $$, do it yourself. To save down time, do F first, R later.

Find & read the Pano article on this.